Mauitrailguy

LOL, if the 4x4 works than who cares.

I dont recall there being flanges up to 1995 ish the whole spindle might bolt up though. Auto hubs are ok, just go slow when going from fwd to reverse so you don't bang them and snap a cv. Is that winch on a carrier that can go from vehicle to vehicle? Your tow hitch is super low which will inhibit your departure angle so try not to drop on it. lol. I bent the crap out of mine. So I put it in-between the frame.

Mines on the tire carrier with that mount. I broke the mount on a tree wheeling so I welded the mount to the carrier. No issues yet.

Thats a random turn of events.

88' with 249,000 but probably around 170,00 on the engine. third axle in the rear and it is SAS'd now. I will never let it die. The interior is perfect.

Ive had issues with the starter not being properly ground, with that being said I would clean the mounting surface of the starter and check all the wires. This could be an ignition issue so check your relays and wiring.

Putty knife for sure, I personally just unbolted the engine and lifted it up enough to slide the pan out.

Thanks for the enlightenment.

How do you replace the bushings, I have an 88 and it looks like a welded pin, mine rattles like crazy.

A little off topic but now I'm gonna check the ones on my frontier and my brothers X. Can we get a write up on injectors replacement?

My wifes frontier feels like it slips a little when turning quick or sharp and the alignment is perfect so maybe its a nissan thing?

Take some TRE's, Ive bent and snapped a couple and was glad I had a few with me. spare CV's obviously extra fluids maybe a spare alternator and belts I would run purple ice Pull the sway bars if your doing a torsion crank Check the differential fluids Im sure there is a lot you could do, I guess it depends on how rough this trail is. If it were me I would lock the diffs, get a winch and bring a F ton of recovery gear, just my opinion.

I also removed my sway bar both front and rear, it got sketchy around 50-60 MPH so I put the rear back in and it helped. The parking brake can be adjusted, but even after that I ripped right through the rubber hoops the cable is supposed to go through. Remember to drop the hoop around the rear drive shaft when doing the body lift. There was no bracket for it in my kit so I just used longer bolts. I had alignment issues also and poor articulation until the sway bar was out and I replaced all the TRE's. I recently cut all the IFS out and did a SAS because I was sick of dealing with the IFS issues, mostly steering. For weekend warriors and daily drivers IFS is fine and the cost to benefit ratio is great compared to a SAS. If the rig is old I would clean and paint the frame when you have everything apart. It looks clean and will help your rig last a while longer. The bumper brackets that came with the AC kit were wimpy so I welded a whole new get up front and back. I would suggest putting new CV boots on when you do the suspension lift just to start fresh. As for fender wall gap covers I just used a couple semi-truck mud flaps and some bolt head machine screws and cut to fit.

http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/index.php/builderparts/rod-ends-links/better/3-4-x-3-4-rod-end-heim-joint-rose-joint-left-and-right-hand-thread.html These don't come in packages but they are good quality and cheaper than the standard TRE's. I would suggest getting a set of front wheel/knuckle assemblies from the junk yard and doing all your drilling on those just in case something goes wrong. Plus you will have less down time. The heims will last longer and are maintenance free. Tubing and thread inserts can be bought just about anywhere.

26$ and you send your old one in for a rebuild, sry that was confusing price is up to 32, with core of 35 sry if I'm every where with this

Posted on FB.. I am out in Westport, so I will keep an eye out.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37819-center-link/ Seems pretty straight forward.

I agree with building, this is made from 3/16 thick. I hit a deer at 45 and as you can see, no damage. Cost me around 200 bucks to make this one and one for my frontier. I still had material left. Take about one day to fab and one to paint and install.

Try bronco springs if you want. Jeffs bronco graveyard has a lot of options. This might sound like a silly question but, do you have any weight in the car on one side or another. Also, Looks like the torsion bars are off. There is to much rake to the rear for them to not have been messed with. I would be concerned with wearing out the front end with those angles.

88 2 door, Im on my second engine and third rear axle, and the IFS is gone, but still strong with 248,000. I couldn't imagine having any other rig. I have had Pathys since I had my permit.

Have you thought about using tubing and heims?

Rockauto.com has them, new is 230, but they have an option for you to send your in for a rebuild for 26.79. I agree with AJ530 on checking codes but I had an 87 that went into limp mode with a bad injector and for 26 a piece it might be a good start. I think I have a MAF laying around if that comes up as an issue. Good luck.

It has a brand new thermostat and water pump, The heater works but does not effect the temp of the truck and occasionally the heater got cold when driving and the engine was really hot. I think I'm gonna have him put a new radiator in it. There has been no smoke and compression was well within spec. so I'm taking heads off the cause list for now.

I might try the fan, the thing was hot driving from CA to OR at all speeds(about 3/4 on the meter). If not, im thinking of just going with some E fans, pretty cheap on EBay or amazon.

They work pretty well. I might change the angle to get more travel. I like that they aren't pressurized so you get a nice feel when driving.