kdj

.25 = 1/4 Yes I measured it at 22.25"(0r 22 and a 1/4 inches) and O/C is "on centre" meaning from the centre of one hole to centre of the other. Thanks I might start on this tomorrow.

I have a '98 Chilkoot(Canadian). It is a 100th aniversery limited edition to celebrate the trail that led to the Klondike gold fields in 1889. It's a SE with special graffics, numbered plauge, alum. step rails, special floor mats, compass, carbon fiber dash and tow package. Unlike the SE it does not come with pansy leather heated power seats. It has 265/70/15's like the SE(XE and LE 245/70/15) and 8.3" ground clearance unlike the XE and LE with 7.5". XE base model then SE(sports edition), Chilkoot and Klondike, then LE (luxury edition). I've seen the Chilkoot in Sierra silver and dark green(not sure actual colour name). I've never heard of a Safari Edition though.

I don't have a NAPA locally but I usually go to The Parts Source. No problems yet and they're fast. I avoid Canadian Tire like the plauge. I ordered a tire for my ATV from them 16 years ago and it still isn't in.

I never thought to try that BUT with lights off and I hit the brakes my dash lights, PRND21 and ashtray light come on and my radio display/clock light dim. With my lights on every thing works normal except the cruise. The lights aren't a big deal but I miss having cruise after dark. Is it trying to tell me I should be home and playing on the computer after dark? In Ontario it's against the law to drive with just your parking lights on so I never thought to try that. Which proves government is like diapers; they both should be changed often and for the same reason.

XE is the base model. SE is sports edition and LE is luxury edition. Mine is a 1998 Chilkoot, which is a SE with speical graffics, numbered plague, alum. step rails.,special floor mats, compass and carbon fiber dash. It came w/o heated, power leather seat and no sunroof. The XE and LE have 7.5" ground clearance and have P235/70/15 tires. The SE and Chilkoot have 8.3" clearance with P265/70/15 tires. The SE, Chilkoot and LE had the fender flares. The 2001 prices were; XE $35,900 SE $40,200 LE $44,300 That's Canadian prices. If anyone can add to that I'd like to know any other differences for the 1998's.

My cruise will not work if my headlights are on. If the cruise is on and I turn on the headlights it disengages. Anybody have any ideas about that?

Does 22 1/4" sound right for bolts O/C? It's a little too dark for a good measure and was just curious. I found the tubing and flat stock in my "pile" of stuff. It sounds like the "lack" of work is worth the effort.

I thought the video was great but I'm on dial up so it takes about 10 minutes to watch it. It was better than alot of what's on TV! Completly different set up than my u-joints.

And a hello from Canada!

I had to pull my AC condenser out to get the electric impact in there and decided not to put it back in as I never used the AC anyway. So I now have a ton of extra room in there with condenser, compressor, dryer, lines, idler etc. all gone. So now I'm thinking on putting in a big tranny cooler I have and going with an electric fan. With the dryer and lines gone I think with some mods to the battery shelf there may be room for a dual battery set up as well. So maybe something good came out of it. Glad you got rid of your squeeeeel as well...I was getting tired of that look people were giving me.

As an update after trying my air impact, a friends big electic(more torque) and bending my 1/2 breaker bar, I took it to the mechanic. His impact wounldn't loosen it either. So after heating it up twice he got it out. He said he'd never found one that hard to got out but the balencer just came off by hand-no puller needed. I was worried the torching might damage the front seal but it's been a month since then and all is still good.

Actually I suggested the RPM check. If the vibration happens at the same RPM regardless of which gear the tranny is in, it is NOT the driveshaft. If the vibration decreases or stops when the tranny is in a different gear at the at the same RPM then it IS the driveshaft, u-joint(s), centre hanger or even the tranny yoke. I don't think I got anything backwards. It still sounds like a bad u-joint to me or maybe the driveshaft counter weights got knocked off-it is a low rider! Either way it will show if that's the problem or something else like tires, brakes, distributor cap, anti freeze etc. If you haven't change u-joints before you might be better off having someone else do them...just make sure to make marks on the driveshaft flange and pinion flange in line with each other before you remove it so it's installed in it's original position.

Find the RPM where the vibration is the worst. Slow down and shift to another gear and then speed up to the original RPM. If it shakes at the same RPM then it's not you drive shaft/u-joint because they are now traveling at a different speed. If the vibration now happens at a different RPM then it IS your drive shaft/u-joints and rule out brakes etc.

Sierra Silver Code KR4

There is a rubber grommet for the factory harness under the heat duct that is under the passenger seat. If you remove a sheet metal plate under the floor and poke a hole through the grommet you'll have lots of room with no drilling needed. I ran two 2 gauge wires through for an inverter and just siliconed around them after. I found this after giving up on getting anything through the dash.

1998 with 292,000 KMS.

Just drove home in the best white out in Southern Ont. this winter!!! At least 3" rain and 4" snow!

The rear brakes self-adjust every time the emergency brake is applied. Try applying the e-brake a few times...it may help.

I no longer carry a spare. I figure if I get a flat I'm getting a ride home to get a "real" jack and a four way so I'll get the spare at the same time.

O.K. thanks for the info. I've been rereading the old posts and finding lots of good stuff...and lots that have asked over and over again.

As an added note the manual says...For driving up or down long slopes where engine braking would be advantageous, push the overdrive switch. The O/D OFF light illuminates. When cruising at low speed or climbing a gentle slope, you may feel uncomfortable shift shocks as the transmission shifts between 3rd and overdrive repleatedly. In this case press the overdrive switch. The O/D OFF indicator light comes on at this time. Just remember to turn it back on or your gas mileage will be even less than "normal".

I just replied to a post from a few years ago by mistake. I was kick off a site a while ago for "not letting old dogs lie" they said. How old of post can be commented on? Don't want to p*ss anyone off, I was rereading stuff and forgot what year it was.

As my manual say "The over drive does not engage until the engine has warmed up" Mine used to worry my till I realised it knows what it's doing. Once it engages I'm at 2000rpm's at 90 KMS.

If you go to a site like Nissan Parts Zone you can find a complete parts break down of all the parts. To anyone working on their truck I'd suggest getting a repair manual(such as Haynes). Complete step by step instruction on how to take it all apart and put it back together again. It'll cost about the same as 15 minutes in the shop, but of course they charge by the hour. It'll answer question you haven't even thought of yet.