ahardb0dy

I tried the console from an R50 one day while I was at the junkyard, might as well try stuff before buying it right. I did not like how it fit because it is a little to wide and it gets squeezed between the seats. I know people have swapped them into the WD21's butI think I would try to modify the seat brackets slightly just to get a little more room. Next junkyard trip I'm going to try a few different consoles in a WD21 to see what looks like it may or may not work. As to the console I posted the pics of above, the plastic in front of the transfer case shifter appears to be flat so modifying the Jeep console so the transfer case shifter is more forward then the Jeep shifter may not be that difficult.

I had a pair of fiberglass fenders back when I had my 87 hardbody, unfortunately I never got around to installing them and a customer came into the shop one day looking for a pair and the manager asked me if I would sell mine so I did. No idea if the fenders from Andy's are different than the ones I had, which were from Jim Connor Racing but they advertise them ( they used to when they were still in business) as the customer having to drill all the mounting holes and you may have to do some trimming, sanding, etc. to get them to line up properly, since they are fiberglass and I guess no 2 fenders are exactly the same. The one's I used to have were designed with a larger flare and taller opening. They were pretty good quality for fiberglass. These are the one's I used to have, for the D21: here are the fiberglass fenders from 4x4 parts, which probably are the same as the JCR one's as 4x4 parts bought out most of JCR's parts: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/hardbody-fiberglass-front-fenders-p-645.html

4 wheel parts still has them listed on their web site see: http://www.4wheelparts.com/Bumpers-Tire-Carriers-Winch-Mounts/Black-Nissan-Pickup-Deluxe-Bull-Bar-Winch-Mount-Bumper.aspx?t_c=64&t_s=26&t_pt=6410&t_pn=ARB3438050 $902, I believe you can get them on sale once in a while for a few hundred less. 5% off with this coupon code: CC5OFF brings it down to $857

I wonder if the console out of a Cherokee would work or fit better? Isn't the cherokee slightly smaller than the grand cherokee? Here is a console I found online from a 98 cherokee manual trans: side view: here is the auto version:

JCR was selling his kit with a 500 CFM carb, bet that one sucked down some fuel!

Good luck on trying to find that clip, I couldn't find one at any of the junkyards when mine broke but this is how I fixed mine, stay's closed works perfect : flat head Phillips screw (type doesn't matter, I used the screw I used because it had a big flat head) Strong magnet, this is one of those rare earth magnets, I picked it up from Radio Shack for another project, and a piece of metal riveted to the base of the console to hold the magnet, the magnet is strong enough to stay on the metal when the lid is opened:

What is the CFM of the carb you are using?

You need to experiment with air pressure, there is no set pressure for any tire. The load range of the tire as was previously asked has a lot to do with the air pressure as well. Per the BFG site for your tire the max load per tire is 2620 lbs @ 50 PSI, so if you times 2620 lbs x 4 that equals 10,480 lbs, the pathfinder does not weigh 10,480 lbs so you would not run 50 PSI, not that you are but you would be surprised on how many people run what the tire says on the sidewall. So, I would mark the tires with chalk across the tread and take the truck for a drive going straight only, stop, look at the chalk on the tread, if the chalk is only worn in the center than lower the pressure, re mark the tread with the chalk, take another drive, when you get to the point where the chalk is wore off across the tread evenly than that is the pressure you should run. just for reference the same tire in a 31/10.50/15 has a rating of 2250 lbs @ 50 PSI and a 33/12.50/15 has a rating of 2225 lbs @ 35 PSI

those are some monster wires for sure !! Years back Jim Connor Racing offered a manifold, holley carb kit and also a stand alone distributor, but those are long gone. catalog page below:

Try spraying the spark plug wires with a spray bottle filled with water, while it's running at night, if you have a bad wire you should be able to see the arc if it is arcing against metal and hear the clicking.

It is for the EGR found it somewhere, thanks

Looks good ! I think most underhood lights just use a Mercury switch to turn them on and off.

This is a pretty good how-to on re-keying the Nissan locks, it's a Pathfinder too ! This is the guide I used when I re-keyed all my locks on the pathfinder and Sentra. http://beergarage.com/PathRekey.aspx If anyone is interested in how to do the ignition I did the one on my Sentra, should be the same if not identical. The re-keying is the same from the glove box to the door locks to the ignition cylinder it's just different on how to get the actual cylinder out of the lock. Nissan is pretty easy to do as there are only 4 different wafers that are used. And each lock depending on what it is used for has a different amount of wafers based on how secure the lock needs to be, for example the ignition and doors use 8 wafers but the glove box lock if I recall correctly only uses 4. Also a tip for anyone thinking of doing the door locks, it is almost impossible without the right tools to remove the chrome face cap from the lock (the outer part) with out mangling it, it is also very hard to get it back on when your done, my tip is to go to a local locksmith and pick up the universal face caps, they have 4 tabs that get bent over instead of the OEM face cap where you have to bend the entire lip back over. I made a Nissan Re-keying kit with all the extra locks I picked up from the junkyard when I did mine, the plastic box contains compartments for the 4 separate wafers, the wafer springs, lock cylinders, outer lock bodies, etc. If I ever have to or get asked to do someone Else's I'm all set. My ignition lock post, was posted already: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30533-anatomy-of-a-nissan-ignition-lock-assembly/?hl=%2Banatomy+%2Bnissan+%2Bignition+%2Block

my 87 had the V6, no overdrive auto, SE 4.62 gears, yes it took a few to get that fast, think I was doing 103 when I got pulled over, no ticket either cop let me go

I had 35's on mine for a while and thought it drove pretty good, got pulled over one day doing over 100 (downhill but it made it that high ! LOL)

my 87 hardbody had no cat, 2.25 pipe from the test pipe back with a Borla muffler, muffler and pipe was SS, I don't think it sounded to loud. I have video of it in 4 Low and 2wd. I liked how that set up sounded.

close up pic of the bumper please ?

You really need to start your own thread if you are going to ask a question that has nothing to do with this one, no one will look in here to help you with your cargo hooks when this thread is not about them, possibly a moderator can move this. Thanks

You can take the new (used) ignition lock to a locksmith (before you install it) and have it re-keyed to match your existing key, it's really not that hard, I re-keyed all the locks on my Sentra and my Pathfinder to match the Pathfinder ignition key, and I never worked on a lock before I did that.

Received the valve cover and intake plenum gaskets from Rockauto today for the gasket replacement project this weekend depending on if it rains or not.

you can just re-solder any connections that don't look good.

Drove it yesterday for the first time in about a week, noticed a nice crack in the windshield !

I once used the hole in the blade of my Spyderco knife as a washer to pull a stud back into place on my friends K5 blazer.

When I had the JDM engine installed I had my mechanic leave the Japanese filter on until I could make sure there were no leaks. After I found there were no leaks I changed the oil, I couldn't get the oil filter off with any of the tools I had, I ended up having to put a strip of rubber inside the filter wrench, (like the one you have), and had to put a pipe on the handle to get the filter to move !!

Take care, we'll be seeing you again