ahardb0dy

I'll use FAST with my Vin number to look up a part number than I look up the price using the site I posted, if I decide I want to order it I'll message Rob to have him double check the part number using my Vin number than order it thru him. Not as much fun for him as dealing with customers wanting to return Autozone parts at his dealership but nice to talk to and buy something from someone you may normally only talk to using the computer on the forum.

Well at least you were able to order a new one at a reasonable cost. I guess sometimes you can take them apart and clean them and they keep working, I took my pass. front power window apart almost 2 years ago when It wouldn't bring the window up but down worked fine, cleaned it all out and it's been working fine since.

Did you take the motor apart?

the one on my sentra was acting up, it would not work when on low unless I played with the fan switch, I took the blower motor out and took it apart, cleaned it and lubed the shaft and put it back in, works like new now. Also cleaned the squirrel cage it was dirty and was noisy from being out of balance.

The tranny mount on these trucks sits over the cross member and the studs are part of the mount but the side that bolts to the trans uses nuts and bolts, You may be able to unbolt the mount from the trans and leave the mount on the cross member and slide the trans back, this is what the mount looks like, in this pic it would be upside down:

The company Busch used to sell a clear coat remover that worked really good, no idea if they still sell it or not.

As I said, I use buynissanparts.com (the link I posted above) when I want to look up prices, but I would rather pay a little more and deal with Rob knowing he will get me my parts and I don't have to worry about dealing with someone I don't know. Before I knew about this forum or had my pathfinder, back when we had our 94 Infiniti Q45t I dealt with a Infiniti dealer in Arizona, they were real good to me, I had ordered new knock sensors and a harness from them one time, the parts arrived and after taking the intake plenum off the engine and replacing the two knock sensors, when I went to install the harness I found it had the wrong connector on it, turns out there were two different harnesses they used. I called the Infiniti dealer that I ordered the parts from and told them, the lady over nighted the correct harness and even threw a throttle body gasket in the package that I asked her for, parts were at my house the next morning !

what's the difference besides price? This is the site I normally use when i want to check a price, I order from Rob if I need a OEM part though. http://www.trademotion.com/parts/1995/Nissan/Pathfinder/SE/?siteid=214041&vehicleid=92802&section=ENGINE&group=CAMSHAFT%20%26%20TIMING

To remove the tranny completely I believe you would need to remove the torsion bars and cross member. What Mount bolt are you referring too?

You mean pull the driveshaft? Yes you will need to remove the clutch pressure plate, clutch and flywheel to get to the rear main seal, than when re-installing a clutch alignment tool or other home made tool will be needed to center the clutch when the pressure plate is re-installed. Other parts will need to be removed in order to move the tranny back as well.

The valve cover screws tend to loosen over time, first step would be to try to tighten them, than replace the gaskets if tightening doesn't work. When I checked the screws holding my valve covers down a while back I found all the screws loose to the point I could turn them with my fingers, I do not have any leaks from mine but I did buy new gaskets and I did replace the easy side (pass), was going to do the drivers side at a later date but did not get to it. The pass. side gasket was stuck on the head real good so I don't think it was leaking anyway.

Most online Nissan dealers that sell parts online use the same system

Very clean ! Good find !!

On an automatic equipped truck it should be 8M or 9M depending on if the truck has cruise or not.

I don't see why you wouldn't be able to do this as long as you take it easy on the brake pedal, a lot more force generated by stepping on the pedal compared to pushing a rod or something into the MC on the bench.

My guy just replaced the MC on my sentra, it didn't come with the stuff to bench bleed it so he installed it and bled the lines at the master cylinder. He told me that any air that got in when the lines were removed would come out of the connections at the MC as it will take the path of lease resistance so to speak, basically he said the air would come out the loose connector on the MC instead of trying to push air thru the fluid in the lines. My brake pedal feels fine and my car stops fine. I have never heard of this being done before ( not bench bleeding the MC) but it seems to be OK, later on just out of my curiosity I may bleed the brakes the normal way.

You could probably use these to clamp the line (s) to the frame, these should be available locally:

I meant the one the OP has is hard to find

the wheel you posted is even older than the one he is looking for. It is hard to find.

what is the error? Only error I see in both the 94 and 95 FSM is it shows a plug numbered 8M and 9M in the list but the diagram does not have the 9M, but if you have the 95 FSM supplement it does show 9M, 8M shows as inhibitor relay, automatic, wagon, without ASCD 9M shows as inhibitor relay, automatic, wagon with ASCD see below:

I saw the AR 39 when I was searching also, I remember when that wheel first came out, about the same time the "wing" one's came out that I had on my old hardbody: I had the wheels on my truck in black, than I wanted to get a matching spare one week end when we were all planning a big camping trip on the beach and the local American Racing distributor only had the wheel in red, so I had a red spare wheel.

Yeah I could see them being a problem to ship, may want to look into buying some metal fuel line and bending it yourself. I keep forgetting how cold it is up there for you guys, I wouldn't want to be outside working in it either !!

I looked on old American Racing web sites using the wayback time machine, it went back to 1997 and that wheel was not shown. I know it is older as I mounted probably hundreds of them back in the day but I have no idea what the model actually was. I do know AR does not make it any longer, so if you want to match it you may need to watch E-bay. Enkei and other companies made similar looking wheels but they may not match 100% to what you currently have.

The 2 fuel lines (Metal) new from an online dealer cost $49 and $26, not too bad to know the lines will be good longer than the truck will probably last. Prices may be more up where you are. There is a 3rd line but it is for the Evaporation system and it runs about $18

No junkyards around? I would try to get the whole length of fuel line used or see if you can order it new.