ahardb0dy

That's why I was asking, I figure the solenoid is what controls the starter motor and tapping it makes the starter turn so wondered if replacing the solenoid might fix the problem. I don't know what is actually wrong. If I feel ambitious today I may pull the starter and take it apart. Not looking forward to pulling the starter, last time I removed one was in my 87 hardbody that had a body lift and the first time I removed it I know it took about an hour, the 2nd and 3rd time it was a lot quicker. Don't remember if I removed the oil filter I don't think I did. The starter in my sentra was doing the same thing and I pulled it out and took it apart,cleaned everything and it has worked fine ever since.

So, my buddy brought his 87 F150 over Thursday after work so we could check some stuff, I fixed the problem it had of not shutting off with the key but than the truck would not start so long story short I told him he could take my pathfinder home. I went to start the PF and it wouldn't start, finally got it to start, shut it off a few times and it restarted every time so off he went, next morning PF wouldn't start for him. So now his Ford is stuck at my house and my PF is stuck at his. Yesterday replaced all his battery cables and starter solenoid and finally got the F150 started and he drove it home, this morning he got dropped off by his room mate, the ford started but the starter would not dis-engage, PF still would not start. After work we drove to his house and replaced the solenoid and I swapped out the Ford EEC relay with a regular relay, truck started and even shut off but cranks really slow. My PF wouldn't start so I had my buddy hold the key to crank and one tap of the starter with the jack rod and it started right up, we drove both vehicles back to my house. The starter in my PF was swapped to the new JDM engine from the old engine and the previous owner had swapped the engine with a junk yard one before I bought it so no idea how old it is, My PF started doing the click click thing about a year ago and I did the relay mod and it has started the first try ever since. My question is should I try just replacing the solenoid or just replace the whole starter? Would the solenoid be what is causing the starter not to do anything? Thanks

Same thing happened to me in my 87 hardbody first 2 starters were local rebuilds lasted 3 days and a week, 3rd was a Beck Arnley one that lasted till I got rid of the truck. You get real good at removing and replacing the starter after a couple of times !!

Did you notice the boost gauge? I think it got close to 25 PSI

Ok here's a really big full size truck, my work truck, 2006 Ford F-550 diesel 4x4 dually with utility bed:

Was your connector all corroded? I noticed on my sentra when I pulled the MAF sensor off to clean it the plug and the socket on the MAF sensor were all covered in green corrosion. Scraped it off best I could car seems to run ok, but I noticed the rubber boot over the plug was all torn.

Finished re-installing the stock air filter/box, cleaned the windows.

I had a K&N on it but it has a cheap Spectre filter on it now, but I'm putting the stock filter and box back in, started to do it last night but it got dark so I have to finish it today.

it's all stock other than the cone air filter which is probably what you hear.

Thanks, in response to your youtube comment, the truck has that many miles but I had a supposed (who really knows) low mileage JDM engine installed. It runs very strong.

Ok, here's my 94, New/used JDM engine, cheap cone air filter, auto trans, 4.62 gears, worn 31" tires: http://youtu.be/ovilOXDTK2c could not figure out how to insert the video into the post

When I first bought my 94 I didn't think the adjustable shocks worked cause the switch didn't light up but after doing the rocking test I knew they worked so I figured the light in the switch was out, I picked up a bulb from radio shack and replaced the stock bulb and it works now, the bulb is real easy to replace since the legs coming off the bulb just pass thru a small piece of rubber inside the switch so no soldering needed, just remove the old bulb and feed the 2 wire legs thru the rubber the same way the stock bulb was in there and re-assemble the switch shouldn't take more than a few minutes, the bulb is cheap too. I think this is the bulb I used: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103780&retainProdsInSession=1 $1.99 for 2

Today I will be putting the stock air cleaner back in, the cone filter is so loud I can't tell if it is what I'm hearing or if I have the famous exhaust leak. not my pathfinder but on the sentra: replaced brake caliper, bled brakes, rewired radio I connected backwards after fixing short behind fuse box for brake lights, replaced bad relay for air horn compressor, sanded rust spots on roof and primed, forgot I also pulled the back of the throttle body that houses the idle up control valve, the AAC valve and the FICD solenoid valve and cleaned everything, also removed the MAF sensor and cleaned it (first time ever)

I can also notice a big difference between the 2 switch positions when going over speed bumps.

'Also keep in mind, the suspension isn't a huge difference. I can sort of tell what mode mine's in, but with 16 year old shocks, there's only so much it's going to do. " I can say in my 94 if I have the shocks in the comfort position (is that what it's called I forget), anyway, in the non sport position if I press down on the rear of the truck it will move quite a bit, or if I rock the truck from the side it moves a lot, in the sport position you can hardly press down on the rear or get the truck to rock side to side, so 16 years old or not these shocks are working !!

Get rid of the Bosch plugs and put NGK's in !! My 94 is stock other than a cone air filter and just from watching your PF accelerate mine seems faster. It looked really slow in the video slope or not.

If you can hear the washer pump running, pull the hose off the fitting under the hood on the side the hose goes up to the hood, than have someone pull the washer lever, if fluid comes out than the nozzles are clogged. What I do is pull the nozzles out of the hood (if yours are in the hood), and I run them under my sink with hot water and I use a small sewing needle to clean out the holes. A lot of times wax will get into the nozzles causing them to clog. If no fluid comes out of the hose than the washer pump may be bad. Does the rear washer nozzle work? Both washer pumps are in the same tank under the hood but they work separately.

Put my truck in to, let's get a group deal going!!

Whoops !! Sorry forgot to mention that !! Thanks

Come on down, plenty of cheap PF's around here! And plenty in the local junk yards, I paid $500 for mine another $600 for a nice JDM engine and it's like brand new!! When you get to Florida we'll go shopping, LOL

There probably is some type of "C ring" that holds the outer tube to the inner bar, but you really don't have to worry about the old bars coming apart, since you are replacing them, just support the truck/a-arm properly and cut the old bars in half, that is if you can't get the outer sleeve off the old bars.

Well I guess you'll be getting some single stage bars

The bars will wear out eventually, you can re-index all you want but they eventually will not hold the amount of height you crank into them

I agree, they are not JCR 2 stage torsion bars, I had a set in my Hardbody, the JCR bars look like regular bars except they had a second set of splines on them with a block of metal that had a allen bolt screwed into it that engaged the bracket you bolted to one of the cross members. The only torsion bars I have seen that look like yours were made for Toyota's. The one's for the Toyota's used a sleeve (like yours) to engage the secondary splines. JCR and Nissan Motorsports were the only company's back than I know of that sold the 2 stage bars for the Nissan. Think they were all made by Sway A Way. hard to see but here is a pic of the JCR 2 stage bars the one's in the center: I spent about 2 hours searching the web for the torsion bars you have, I have seen them before, thought they may have been the same style Downey off-road made for the Toyota but I checked their old website using the internet time machine, Downey has closed shop 2009 I think, also checked on the NWOR (another Toyota site) and calmini site now and way back no one had that style bar, really aggravating because I've seen that style before, even dragged out an old Sway a Way catalog I have and they only list single stage bars. The sleeve on your torsion bars does come off the bar, they may not come off easily but they are not part of the bar.