wood6078

That's all I can figure that's wrong with the beast. I was fighting timing issues for awhile. It wouldn't stay in time with a new t-belt, so figured cam sensor bad and replaced dizzy. Did good for about a day, so I reset the dizzy and took it for a test drive. On the way back home, it sounded like a belt squalling and then she died. I got to walk a couple miles and pulled it home. I figured the belt broke, but it's tight. Only problem - the crank turns w/o the cams. Only thing I can figure is the keyway broke for the crank gear. Is this common? But long story short, it's for sale. I figured I'd give you guys first dibs. I'll get a thread started in the for-sale section ina bit to let you guys see it. I was just wondering how common it is for the keyway to break.

Me and my dad did this years ago with our 66 falcon. Truck lock didn't match the doors.

Kinda hate to thread-jack here, but I've been having about the same problem lately with the crappy mileage. Completely stock 95 auto - awhile back, I had the exhaust redone to move the y-pipe behind the t-case. In doing so, the O2 sensor only reads off one bank now. It's running bad enough now that it doesn't really want to get out of it's own way (NO takeoff) and at cruising speed, it struggles to the point of downshifting to maintain 60 mph. Unplugging the O2 sensor makes it a little better. Just wanting to get some other opinions, but I think the oxy sensor is looking for more fuel causing it to add more fuel. Whaddaya think? A lot of work to test my theory, so I was wondering what you guys think.

if they sell sensa-trac's, they should sell rancho's. monroe makes them both. see if they'll do a warranty return on your monroe's and let you pay the difference for the rancho's.

I get a consistent 13, mostly city. That sheit gets old.

Nothing about going to manual hubs? Just kiddin, bud. Great information on here.

Chryslers with digital odometer will give you the codes. Turn key off and on like three times and the codes pop up in the odometer

Wix website says M20x1.5 on the pitch

A 235/75 is 28.88 inches tall and a 225/80 is 29.17 inches tall. So, a little over a quarter inch diff in height. Def wouldn't want to go into 4-wheel unless you're in some really slick stuff.

Take out the glovebox, and it's right behind it

Who makes it?

I'm really diggin this grill^^^^^^^^

Nice....

Or put some warn manuals in place of your auto's

If that's all the pressure you need, see if you can find something that crosses to an airtex e8012s. We sell that at O'Reilly for about 50-60 bucks. I don't know what kind of parts houses you guys have over there, but it would probably be cheaper than a Holley or walboro with the same results. Hope this helps some... If nothing else, it's another idea

10w-30 Castrol GTX year-round...

M6x1.0, I believe.

Just b/c I said I would....even though u don't need it. :-) Lucas engine break-in oil additive p/n 10063

Lucas engine break-in additive has zddp, I think. I know its high in zinc. We carry it at my store (O'Reilly's).....I'll get you a p/n for it tomorrow and make sure it has the zddp in it.

Works every time..... Good move on unplugging the coil, btw. That's when it gets ugly

Even the tanks? That'd be awesome.....

Thanks B, counting the teeth is what I meant. It's like he KNOWS, or something....... :-)

New rad.

It would be the a's. The b's are for some arms that wipe opposite. The difference is which side the wind deflector, or wing, is on.

Personally, Rain-X Latitudes on front and an ANCO yellow-box on the back. Just like nunya said, the Rain-X's last, even the framed weatherbeaters.