wood6078

Thanks, guys. 20 minutes installing a switch fixed it. Just pisses me off I spent so much time chasing and splicing wires. Again, thanks a lot, guys!

That's awesome

Tried that^^^^^ nothing Also, by checking the bulb, I hot-wired it to the battery with some scrap wire

That's also a quick easy way to make sure the hose is still good.

Right, going off the diagram, I assume joint connector a is where that section of the harness comes into cab. I couldn't find the other side of that to see if those wires stay separate all the way to the switch I should really print all that out so I can actually look at it in the truck

Hey guys, this has me pretty confused. 95 xe, driver high beam no worky. First thought, bulb. Works fine. Then test light came out and no power from red/blue wire out of the plug. Okay, bought a pigtail at work, hook it up, check w/ testlight and there's power. Put in the bulb, doesn't work. I decide I have a small short somewhere in that wire. I said f@4k it and ran a jumper wire from the other side. Still doesn't work.......I've looked at the fsm wiring diagram, and am I correct in understanding that those run straight to the switch? If that's the case, is it possible the contact in the switch is bad? Before anyone asks, yes the fuses are good, unless there's more than just the two 15-amp act's on the pass inner fender. Also the low beam works. Thanks in advance guys -wood

Way to be a buzzkill, man.......... :-) It looks sweet, that's all that matters Thanks for the pic manifesto

^^^^^x2

Oh yeah, and for your thermostatic switch, for your e-fan, it's a 3652 Hayden p/n if that helps you any kingman It's stuff like that they should KNOW isn't in the computer and they may have to open a book to find.

Wow, guess I just thought every store is like the one i work at. That sounds like the twilightzone we have in town. People always come in to our store with those same type of complaints from autozone. Sorry for the bad experiences at the sister stores, but I know around here, we take care of the people that come in - hence the comment about being proud to have paper catalogs AND know how to use them. We go by the philosophy that if somebody makes it, we will find a way to get it for you. A lot of times I'll call the dealer, order a part, mark it up a couple bucks and still save the customer money. Like I said guys, being an employee of O'Reilly, that kinda pisses me off that other stores just don't try.

The loan-a-tool program is definitely staying even though o'reilly bought CSK. I work for o'reilly and it's just one of those things we pride ourselves on. That and knowing how to use a paper catalog; the computer is not always right.

paid $200 for manifolds back on mine. no more cat and moved the y-pipe behind the t-case, so no more transpan issues. all i did was supply the muffler

I work at O'Reilly and this guy came in one time with a 1-ton dodge dually with a cummins pulling a loaded horse trailer. He wanted a plug to put in his front brake line because the caliper was leaking. Told him we wouldn't sell him one and he proceeded to inform us that it was fine, he already had one in the master cylinder blocking the back brakes. Talk about a freaking idiot, man. Six horses in a trailer behind a diesel 1-ton 4wd truck and you think you can stop it with one brake...

well, the way i was looking at it when doing the timing belt, on top of looking at the chilton's was that the seal drove in from the back side of the pump that, and i think the crank seal set from fel-pro came with gasket for the pump. anyway, timing belt wasn't that bad to do. guess i'll take it back off and redo to change that seal. needs v/c gaskets and exhaust leak fixed anyway hey precise, how bout those foglight trim pieces and a switch? :

Where abouts on the firewall is this tube? Mine does the same thing in the summer. I was about to drill a hole in the airbox to fix it.

Hey guys....so, my 95 XE is leaking oil from the front of the motor, behind the balancer. Noticed it while doing the t-belt couple months back. Still not bad, really just seeping it's way out. I know, shoulda changed it while I was doing the belt, but damn chiltons book scaring me about what they say must be done to get to it. According to them, drop front diff, lift motor off mounts to get oil pan and pump off. Is all this really necessary? Anybody else done that seal? How bad is it, really to do? Thanx -wood

IMO for a cheap, good tire.....Dayton timberline AT. Pretty rugged, nothing spectacular, but a good tire nonetheless