wood6078

I'm not gonna knock factory parts in any way...honestly, they are probably the best thing you can get. But personally, I work for O'Reilly auto parts and as such get an awesome discount on parts, it doesn't make economic sense for me to get the top factory parts. I can tell you that mine has all Gates belts and hoses, and that they are among the best when it comes to aftermarket parts. Just like B said, you might as well replace everything while you're in there. Don't be like me and put t-belt, tensioner, t-stat, and hoses in. Do the water pump and seals as well. Just had to tear back into mine to replace a pouring front seal and leaky water pump. Also, don't pay attention to chiltons or whoever on the crank seal (FYI, if you go aftermarket, the fel-pro crank seal set I got had the wrong seal for the VG30), you don't have to remove the pan. Just run a screw into it and pull it out. New one pressed in by hand, mostly. And lastly, double-check your timing before buttoning it all back up. I can tell you from what I did last night that you will want to fill it full of bulletholes if you're filling up the radiator and then figure out you screwed up.... Damn, I ramble way too much.

Yeah, I read through those. They did help a lot for my understanding of where everything was and how I needed to move things around. Turn the crank a little, turn the cams a little. If the crank feels like it's hit something solid, stop and move the cams. I'm actually most impressed by how quick you guys replied. Thumbs up on that a thousand times!!! I thought it would tomorrow before anyone got back to me. It helps to have a phone that tells me when I have a new e-mail and let's me hop right back on the forum in order to see your replies. I won't go so far as to say there is no damage, but it doesn't feel like it, and that's a good thing. I need to fix this shoddy exhaust note so I can I hear there is no damage to make myself feel better about the situation. Been listening to what seems like a busted baffle in the muffler for ages now. Maybe something else on this weeks vacation....

Shew....that was rough. Ended up taking the belt off and VERY carefully turning the crank until I hit tdc on #1. Pulled plug and a long-handled screwdriver down the plug hole. That told me where the crank needed to be. And using the timing marks on the cams, I turned them where they needed to be and installed a new belt, since the old one got covered in AF twice in 2 days. (I didn't drain b4 hand, lower hose spews on everything if you don't). Next, I reinstalled lower cover and balancer. Cranked her over and she sounded fine. Then put everything else back together. I know I got lucky that this worked for me. There is a strong possibility that the cams could have been 180 degrees out, but I knew it was close and adjusted to make it right. All-in-all, it's back together and running just fine. Back to how many teeth I was off, when I turned the crank round to match where I "thought" a timing mark would be for it, the LH cam lined up, and the RH cam was off by about 4 teeth. Now, I just have to keep an eye on it and see if I stopped the oil and water leaks. :-) One last bit, I really have to give credit where it's due...I had to call my pops and get his coaching on what to do. Always nice to have someone to call who has about 30 years experience with all types of engines.

Alright, got it back apart and turning it over by hand, don't hear anything touching. Still feels like it has good compression, but I'll double-check that when I get this part fixed. Where is exactly is the mark opposite the crank? Going off the chiltons manual, it doesn't look like it's where it should be.

So, as the title says, I screwed up somewhere putting the pathy back together last night. Put a crank seal and water pump in. Marked the t-belt and reinstalled seeing as it's only ~5k miles old. Now it's sounds out of time. If just one tooth somewhere, would the valves still be okay? The question is really how far out can it be b4 pistons meet valves?

im trying to do this and run some foglight wires, how in the hell do you get the knob off the AT shifter in order to get the console all the way out? or do you just pull the console up and maneuver it around the t-handle?

Mine's always around 13-14....only thing I don't like about the truck. What app is that?

-cv axles, boots been busted since I started driving it -front seal -tranny leak, no idea where, but it's only bout a quart per 2k miles -bout 4 rust spots on passenger side. Trying to figure out how much of the body I don't want to paint to make it look right -o2 sensor to try to get better than 13/17mpg city/hwy. Don't know if that'll help, but everything I replace still says Nissan on it, even at 170k miles. - front brakes! (brgs and all) I think that's it---hopefully

If the evaporator core was leaking, your a/c wouldn't be cooling. I'd say it's just an issue with the drain.

Where'd u get the axle from? I work at O'Reilly and in that situation, we'd give you back the money for the part and the core. Since they're not going to have a core to hand back to you, they owe you the core charge as well.

Check the mechanical function of the trans first. Make sure the pump is spinning and building pressure, etc.

N/m, it wouldn't start if this happened

Check the flexplate (flywheel), Could have broken out the center, so now there is nothing connecting the crank to the torque converter.......just an idea

mine's the same on both sides.....just 2 screws, same positions as yours. just got done puttin some 5.25" up front

Mine does the side-to-side wobble, too. I think it's prolly where the hinge bolts up under the wiper cowl.

Thanks, guys. 20 minutes installing a switch fixed it. Just pisses me off I spent so much time chasing and splicing wires. Again, thanks a lot, guys!

That's awesome

Tried that^^^^^ nothing Also, by checking the bulb, I hot-wired it to the battery with some scrap wire

That's also a quick easy way to make sure the hose is still good.

Right, going off the diagram, I assume joint connector a is where that section of the harness comes into cab. I couldn't find the other side of that to see if those wires stay separate all the way to the switch I should really print all that out so I can actually look at it in the truck

Hey guys, this has me pretty confused. 95 xe, driver high beam no worky. First thought, bulb. Works fine. Then test light came out and no power from red/blue wire out of the plug. Okay, bought a pigtail at work, hook it up, check w/ testlight and there's power. Put in the bulb, doesn't work. I decide I have a small short somewhere in that wire. I said f@4k it and ran a jumper wire from the other side. Still doesn't work.......I've looked at the fsm wiring diagram, and am I correct in understanding that those run straight to the switch? If that's the case, is it possible the contact in the switch is bad? Before anyone asks, yes the fuses are good, unless there's more than just the two 15-amp act's on the pass inner fender. Also the low beam works. Thanks in advance guys -wood

Way to be a buzzkill, man.......... :-) It looks sweet, that's all that matters Thanks for the pic manifesto

^^^^^x2

Oh yeah, and for your thermostatic switch, for your e-fan, it's a 3652 Hayden p/n if that helps you any kingman It's stuff like that they should KNOW isn't in the computer and they may have to open a book to find.