JamesRich

On my Titan I just learned to ignore the light. It flashes for two minutes after I start it, I kind of use it as a timer at first startup in the morning. Let it idle till the light stops flashing then drive off. Give the motor a little time to warm up and get some oil flowing. My wife's van is usually in gear before the starter stops turning. James

I didn't get a decoder ring either! Can I get a red ribbon to match my pathy? I hear you on the used vehicles, but here is my experiences. When I was young I could only afford used vehicles. After buying one I would go over it with a fine toothed comb and fix all the little things I would find wrong, then just drive it and enjoy. (except for the ford) My first new vehicle was a 04 Titan that had one problem after another constantly having to take off work to take it to the dealer where they couldn't fix it. I kept it for 17k and a year and a half and traded it on my 06 titan. This one was better but still lots of trips to the dealer. Now I bought this old pathy, same as before fix all the little problems from PO neglect and just drive it and enjoy. I don't think I will ever buy a new vehicle again. I like to be in control of the repairs because I don't trust anyone else working on my vehicles. There is nothing more aggravating than knowing what is wrong with your truck, take it to the dealer for repair, and when you pick it up they tell you "We didn't find anything wrong with it". How I didn't choke the life out of that idiot I just don't know. Anyway, just my opinion. Enjoy the new taco. James

This is what I was going to suggest, more clamping force puts more stress on the release components and will prematurely where them out. Just put a stock clutch and get you an atlas! James

Alright! Good persistence! Now say a little prayer of thanks. I think I would have set it on fire by now. So how does it run? You leavin rubber yet? James I just noticed the posting time, get some sleep man.

Thanks for the heads up. James

This sensor makes a big difference The truck runs much better. It has better throttle response, seems to have a little more acceleration, and doesn't sound like its straining just to keep highway speed anymore. Hopefully the fuel mileage come up too. I put a grounding kit on my Titan now I see this one can use one too. If anywhere that is supposed to be a ground shows resistance to the negative post on the battery it needs a better ground wire. Just don't get carried away with enough cables to hold the motor up without the motor mounts! James

I got the sensor changed out. This is definitely one of those things you should change when changing the timing belt! I ohmed the two sensors on a bench in my shed and there is a 200 ohm difference between the old and new one. These things are extremely sensitive, if I held it in my hand I could see the impedance change. My old sensor seems to sweep correctly even though the resistance is off but it might open or short when it gets too hot. When I pulled my 20 foot trailer the temp got up a little more than it usually runs and the truck started running like crap, it had a major hesitation. Now it seems to be running even better than it did before and no codes after the test drive, and I ran the hell out of it. Now I will fill the tank and see if it made a difference with my mileage. If anyone else is interested I have an excel spreadsheet that keeps track of your mileage. You must enter your mileage and gallons used at every fillup though James

I thought you did all your own work? This is a good reason to do all your own work. James

That looks like the plug for the shock absorber. James

My truck has a 5 speed trans. The O2 I got from Rock auto. I replaced it just because it was old, part of the tuneup. The original was still working correctly. I checked it with my old Snapon scanner. It gives me live reading on the O2 sensor and a few other sensors but nothing like an OBD2 system. I can watch the O2 switch from lean to rich and compare it to the mixture compensation. Mine are both switching at the same time which means its working correctly. When I unplugged the coolant sensor it stayed lean and would not switch back and forth. So you guys that were burning a lot of fuel with a bad coolant temp switch must have had a shorted switch to make it stay rich. My sensor is changing as the temp comes up but the impedance is to low. I verified the temp with a inferred thermometer. Once I get to change it, probably Thursday, I will let y'all know how it does. I will probably compare the impedance readings with them side by side before installing the new one. James

One more thing on the temp sensor. When I tested the wiring harness the FSM said I should have approximately 5V with the key on, I had 4.1V. I checked the pin at the computer and it has the exact same voltage so it's not resistance in the wire. I guess 4.1V could be approximately 5V. Anyone else check they reference voltage, and what did you get? This truck could seriously use some ground cables. I put a set on my Titan because of resistance problems like this. If I check impedance between the negative battery post and the intake I get 1.5 oms resistance. I will have to make up a set of ground cables to put on here. I'm thinking one from the negative post on battery to the fender. From fender to intake. Maybe intake to TBS. Fender to alternator. I may just get a little happy and ground everything till I run out of wire. James

Thanks Kingman, I got one at my local autozone. Now if things could chill at work I could put it on the truck. Yesterday I worked 6am to 7pm, good money but no life! James

I like that! I may have to copy that. I used one for a complaint department tag once when I was in fleet repair. That would disconnect more than just the drive train! James

I've got one of those too, it seals pretty well. When it gets cold the sides suck in and I have to open it. I haven't found a spout that doesn't leak yet. James

Thanks Man! Thats what I needed. So I was looking at the right one at rock auto. I will hit auto zone first. With the part number I won't have to wait or wonder if they will get me the right part. As for the exhaust, I know a shop that will cut it all off and just put a turn down if I want so I don't know if I will keep a converter. Thinking of going with maybe a stock muffler for a V8. I want it to flow better but I want it to be quiet for sneaking around in the woods. I put a dynomax super turbo on a V8 once and it was so quiet it sounded stock. I might look into one of those also. James

So how much we talking about for a set if you have some made and how long? I'm not in a hurry because I don't want to touch anything on the exhaust until after hunting season. I know I will break some bolts and don't want to put the truck down when I need it most. Then I'll be hunting on a little two wheel drive honda recon! Another question for y'all. Where do y'all get a replacement ECU coolant temp sensor? I tested mine and it's out of range. That could be some of my fuel mileage problem. I called Oreilly and the idiot I talked to said they didn't even have a listing. (what he meant was he couldn't find it) I called the closest auto zone and no one would answer the phone. On the way to the shooting range today I stopped at a auto zone and the guy behind the counter started looking it up, then answered the phone and walked to another computer and started looking something up for someone else while I stood there waiting. After 5 minutes I told him where he could go and walked out thinking I'm batting a thousand today! I looked on rock auto but I'm not sure if I'm looking at the gauge sensor or the sensor for the ECU. Anyone have a part number from Rock auto? James

Thanks Slick! You saved me alot of time with the wire colors. James

Cool Thanks! James

I like Frankenfinder too. James

No I never pulled a WD21 tranny but lots of half ton ford and chevys, S10, ford rangers. As long as it's an aluminum case. Also only manuals, those autos are too damn heavy. And I'm not that big, 6' tall 190 pounds. Just been doing auto and diesel work from 1988 to around 2001 when I screwed up my knee. I am always in a hurry though, fighting with a jack takes too long if you don't need it. Course maybe if I didn't think that way I wouldn't have screwed up my knee. James

Tired of hearing the bell when your key is in the ignition and your door is open but don't want to loose the reminder when you forget your lights on? In the pictures I dropped the lower cover on the steering column and the little vent cover right below it to show the wires. All you need to remove is the lower cover with the little vent. This is the two wires that sense the key in the ignition. the colors are red & white and Red & blue. This is the connector that you need to unplug to stop the bell. After the connector the colors change to Solid pink and Brown & white. Just unplug it and put your panel back. Now the bell won't sound when the key is in the ignition but it will remind you when you leave your headlights on.

Anyone find a V pulley that fits the maxima alternator? I don't feel like making a spacer for a two piece pulley. I'm sure there is a car out there that has the pulley we need to just swap it out. James

Why do you need a trany jack for a little aluminum trans like that. I always use the guns, even on my brothers half ton chevy Z71. Slide it back and put it on your chest then roll out. (you must be on a creeper for the roll out part to work) The same way to put it back, it's a whole lot easier to stab into the clutch when your holding it instead of trying to align a jack. On the Z I took the transfer case off first. And don't try this with a cast iron case trans! James

Have you looked at your plugs to see what they look like? The color will give you an indication of whats going on. An intake vacuum leak would cause it to run ruff but not usually run rich. Check the vacuum hose going to your fuel pressure regulator, that could make it run higher pressure if the hose is broken off. If it is intermittent it might be hard to find the problem until it gets worse. Check the regulator vacuum first and if its ok check your plugs to see where to go next. James

O2 sensor too, $130 direct replacement from rock auto. I have never had a code other than the normal one. I think it's 55 that means everything is functioning normal. Damn with your monster rig? You must have someone helping you push it! Now I'm convinced it's my exhaust, all you guys with the higher fuel mileage have headers. James