JamesRich

The Titan is already running a set of slotted frozen rotors and hawk pads! It fixed the shaking problem I've had since the truck was new. I don't think I could work with you guys. I would want to treat every gun and automotive part I have. Y'all would run me out of there! On the Pathy I think I may be due for y'all all to line up and take turns giving me a good swift kick in the butt! When I bought the truck it had an exhaust leak right in front of the Y pipe. Every bolt on the exhaust system looks like it will break off if I screw with them so I figured I would ignore the leak because it's not very loud. Now that I think about it, the leak is in front of the O2 so if the exhaust has decent enough flow it will suck fresh air into the system and make the O2 get a lean reading and then richen up the mixture to try and compensate. This is just my educated guess, I'm not screwing with the exhaust till after hunting season so I guess I'll just have to learn to ignore the fuel mileage for now. This little truck will drive me drinking trying to get it running right! James

You must have never used a spring compressor! James

I didn't use a spring compressor to change mine. Jack truck high in the air and put jack stands under frame in front of rear wheels. Support axle with floor jack and raise just a little before fully extended. Remove lower shock nut and pull the shocks off of the stud. Loosen all 8 bolts on the 4 links and the two on the panhard bar. (you will probably have to take off the diver side of panhard to remove shock.) Remove brackets that hold the E-brake cables. Remove 4 bolts that holds sway bar to axle. Lower axle until springs fall out. Put spring isolators on new springs and install them then jack axle back up to hold them in. Put shocks and panhard back on mounts then raise truck and remove jack stand and set it back on the ground. Now, at riding hight, tighten all the link bolts and replace the e-brake brackets and sway bar bolts. I've done this three times by myself and feel it's way easier and safer than messing with a spring compressor. James

I never watched the O2 above 2800 at a steady cruse, under WOT it stays lean. This gives me more to think about because on the interstate at 70mph it is running at 3000 rpms. At this speed you would think there was a hole in the tank with the way the fuel gage is dropping. With the resistance issues on these trucks I wonder if I need to ground the exhaust pipe? The O2 is new but to be burning that much fuel it cant be actually running lean. I would love to go with the carb option right now if it were an easy swap. I'm getting really tired of screwing with this early limited feed back injection system. My blood pressure just jumped a notch higher yesterday thanks to my local nissan. I decided to park the pathy and drive the Titan till I get time to work on it. My wife just brought my titan to nissan to replace the electric A/C condenser fan that nissan extended the warranty on to 80K because they are crap. Now the blower fan inside the truck stays on high no matter what the auto climate control is set on. I'm so fed up with this dealer screwing thing up on my truck when they are doing warranty work that I am calling Nissanusa and ratting them out! James

Id like to see pictures of that KMA that "crumpled like a tin can" too. The KMA bumper is made out of pretty thick metal. I cant see it crumpling like that unless you were doing 60mph in that tall grass, which I wouldn't think you would do because that would be pretty ignorant. It's not a dozer blade, It's designed to anchor a winch to your frame not clear property of 4" trees. I would think that the way it is mounted the frame would bend up before denting the bumper in that bad so if anything the pictures would give me confidence in the strength of the mounting brackets. James

I remember that post, hopefully mine has the screw. Once I get a fuel pressure reading and know that is ok, I will try adjusting that screw and see what I get with fuel mixtures. James

When my OEM center link was sloppy it would bump steer pretty bad. Grassroots fixed that problem. I would like to put a stabilizer but really don't need it now. James

I was going to suggest a catch can but My1path beat me to it! If you are sure its from the PCV a catch can should solve the problem. Just don't use too long of a hose like I've seen so many people do. Does a VQ have one or two PCV valves? If it has two like a VK56 you will need two cans to work properly. James

I hadn't needed it in years! Ever since OBDII systems came out I use my lap top with one of those cables. You guys with the 96 on up have this option. makes it alot easier to trouble shoot when you can see what all the sensors are doing. These cables are only around $100 if you have a laptop. My mileage varies which is what bothers me. If I get on the interstate doing 70mph at 3000 rpms I can see the gas gage dropping like it was poring gas out the back. My last hunting trip I averaged 17mpg for the whole trip. On the highway for the 70 miles to get to my camp the gas gage hardly moved. Riding around on trails in the woods maybe 15 miles I burned almost a half tank. Then the highway back the gage hardly moved again. Now I can see with my scanner, on the highway at 60mph the fuel mixture is staying where its supposed to. while accelerating on the trails it's running lean and straining. I already checked the TPS with info that came with my scanner. That is the same place I found the tip on the ground wires. The tip just said to clean the connection, I decided to add the extra wire. I will try and scan a few of the pages and post them here. There wasn't much on Nissan's in there though. Now if I could just find the connections for my fuel pressure gage so I could check the pressure. I hate moving! I moved 3 years ago and still don't know where all my stuff is at! James

Well I had hoped I could get to the point where I could just drive around smiling and just crawl under to change the oil. James

Yes I agree with you there. It should have had better work than you described. I hate not getting what I paid for. James

I am very anal about how my vehicles run so if it ain't just right I am going to screw with it. My fuel mileage isn't what I think it should be and I had a little stumble when I would give it gas after shifting gears, which was worse when the engine was cold. I tore into it and started testing with my scanner. I get the all clear code so no obvious places to look. I back probed the TPS and checked it for shorts to ground, it all checked ok. Next I tested the injectors. On the throttle body there is only one plug so I had to release the wires for each injector from the plug. I'm not going to say what a pain in the @&%# that was but both injectors test ok. Next I found a tip about loose grounds on the intake. I checked the grounds and they were tight and not corroded so they seemed ok. With the resistance problems these truck have I decided to run a new ground wire to them too. I ran a wire from the two grounds on the intake to the passenger side and grounded the other end where the ground cable from the battery bolts to the fender. Bingo! this has taken care of my stumbling problem! The truck runs smooth now through all rpms, but still seems to be lacking power. At a 2000 rpm rev the O2 sensor switches rich to lean constantly like it should do so I decided to take it for a drive and watch the O2. I put the computer on the dash and took off, I could still see around it so it seemed safe enough I took this picture on the way to work, thats why there is a convenience store in the background. The O2 switches good under light acceleration and steady cruising, but moderate and heavy acceleration it stays lean. I know most people will think running lean should burn less gas but the engine has to work harder under this condition and ends up burning more fuel. I need to gather some fitting to check fuel pressure and the pressure regulator but that's all I can think of. Anyone else got any ideas? James

I had a knock sensor go bad on my wife's 01 quest van, not a pathy but still a Nissan. The quest has the OBDII computer system so that might make a difference, but the only problem it gave me was crappy fuel mileage. The little van usually averaged 17 mpg and with the knock sensor code it was averaging 14. It ran fine as far as smooth running and the power seemed the same, a slow turd. And yes I tore all the top end of the motor off and changed it! James

I have a KMA bumper, and my experience wasn't that bad. Myipathy ordered a rear tube bumper I think. My guess is they don't make very many of them so maybe that is why it took so long. I think my bumper will fit other application too. I was told 5 weeks and it took two and a half months. I have no body lift and the lower brackets didn't fit very well. This makes me think they had never made one for a truck with no body lift. Another member here, Samtex I think, has one with a 3" body lift. A kma (or copying there design) might be the best option for your setup. Unlike the ARB it is not made all in one piece. There are lower brackets that bolt to the tow hook locations on the frame and then the bumper bolts to the brackets. There are blank tabs where the factory bumper brackets go so I just bolted my factory brackets to the blank tabs for the extra support. If you change your body lift you would just have to change or modify your lower brackets. A word of caution on your body lift. I don't know how you did yours but I saw a guy that had 8" of body lift on a bronco 2. His was made out of 2" square tubing for the spacers with all thread bolts holding it together. He had 44" swampers on the truck and it looked good but one day he hit a dip while wheeling and the all thread bolts bent and his body came crashing down. I think if he would have made a type of frame support connecting all the 8" spacers together he would have been ok. It caused so much damage he junked the truck.

What I alway do for a flush is take the top radiator hose off and aim it down. Stick a water hose in the radiator and let it run until the water coming out is clear. Then drain radiator and fill with antifreeze. James

Your wheel bearing may be loose on that side. It should have showed up in the alignment if they know what they are doing. James

Good Job man! After all the work you did I knew you wouldn't let a starting issue stump you. You should feel proud driving that truck around after all that work. 0 deg already Holy crap winter isn't even here yet! This Cajun boy has never even felt 0 deg weather. Down here if it's below 20 deg half the town shuts down. Accept for the wrecker drivers, they get really busy. James

I have a thump noise from the back of my truck when I hit large bumps, I was thinking it was the body loose on the frame. Now y'all got me thinking it might be the rear door. I checked the gasket and rubber bumpers are good. When it's closed it is tight and doesn't move. I will have to go for a ride in the back like Wilson did. I got 5 miles to get to one of my hunting spots, 25 to 30mph on a trail in the woods gets pretty annoying! James

Thats a good idea and a cool write up. I added the map light but never thought about making it come on with the dome. 555 timer circuit. http://www.circuitdb.com/circuits/id/196 My wife's old 89 stanza had a circuit like this. If we could figure out where in the car it was located we might be able to pull the module at a pick a part and just wire it into our trucks. I think my brothers 86.5 hard body had this too. James

From the wear you described it sounds like your friction disk wasn't sliding on your input shaft. Make sure you don't have wear spots on the input shaft and put some never sieze on it when you go back together. I have never seen a clutch wear like that but then again I never worked on rock crawlers. The reason a hydraulic clutch doesn't feel right after resurfacing it is because most people don't shim the flywheel on the crank the amount that was taken off when it was resurfaced. James

I just did the relay mod and it took care of my problem! I got this truck in January and slowly modded it for hunting. Yesterday, one day before I leave for it's first official hunting trip, It wouldn't start! Little Bastard! About 15 minutes for this mod and it cranks every time. I tested for voltage while doing the mod. First off the ground for the inhibitor relay has .3 ohms resistance. The battery had 12.63 volts but the inhibitor relay only sent 12.05 to the starter and this was with no load on it. It's all good now thanks to this forum! I think I will look into the problem dmag23 had too. James

I am amazed at the suspension on this truck. It rides decent but takes bumps incredibly well. A bridge by my house has a large dip on one side. If I hit it in my titan doing more than 45mph it bottoms out the front suspension. I hit that same dip in the pathy doing 70mph and hardly felt the dip. I know I will end up catching some air eventually. James

That sure is some pretty welds! Nice fab work too! James

Damn, now I have more work to do! James

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