JamesRich

I found one of these in the same color as my interior. I plan to use it just like B did but I'll probably paint the panel black. One day I'll get time to install it. I have at least two years worth of projects stacked up for this truck! James

The Jim Wolf cams have the same diameter lob as original nissan. They are ground from blanks so you are paying for the blanks too. There are several guys on clubtitan that have their cams. A titan uses a solid lift cam and the lash is set with shims in a little cap that goes over the valve and spring. You must change the shim thickness to adjust it. Can you imagine that nightmare with 32 valves. All of the guys that used the Jim Wolf cams had perfect lash with the new cams and didn't have to change any shims. If they were reground cams all the shims would have to be changed. The Jim Wolf cams for a Titan are $1200 for the set of 4, thats why I don't have them yet. James

I still want to see how you squeezed a second alternator under the hood. Also how you wired it in. James

Not quite as much work as changing all the interior and wiring harness from one truck to another! James

I remember when you did that, sounded like a lot of work. I need to corner an old friend of mine that is a racing nut (he drives a 7 second car) and get his opinion on all this. He is the one I know with the flow bench that I will get to help me port my heads. I have plenty of time though, I'm kind of broke now after gathering parts. James

When you change your knock sensor put some silicone grease under it to prevent corrosion. Anything meant to protect electrical connections. When I changed the one on my wife's quest the old sensor tested the same impedance as the new one. The new sensor got rid of the code though so I don't know if the sensor was bad or it was just a bad connection. I don't even know if it needs to ground to the block but why take the chance. James

Yes I know Jim Wolf uses new billets to grind there cams but they are $560 for a pair. The regrinds are cheaper but regrinds concern me. The regrinds are less then half the price of Jim wolf's, tempting! James

My concern about the reground cams is the fact that we don't have adjustable rockers. I know they grind the lobe heal to give it more lift, can our lifters take up this extra clearance? When I was 18 and fresh out of school I worked in a shop that replaced engines and transmissions. All the rebuilt engines we installed had reground cams because they were cheap crap. I had to replace the cam and lifters on an oldmobile once because it would not stop ticking. Apparently the heal had been ground too much for the non adjustable valve train to make up the difference. My luck I would get a cam with this problem. I guess if all the guys you know haven't had problem these cam grinders have better quality control then the crap we were getting back then. James

You beat me to it! On the older GMs just the gold part screwed into the side of the throttle body. The spring on it won't (shouldn't) come off if you remove the little motor. The spring pushes on a pointed plunger that seals a port that lets more or less air in. This is not a solenoid that move either in or out but a motor that can move and stop as needed to adjust the air flow. This is what controls your idle speed instead of moving the actual throttle plate. You should be able to plug it into your truck to test the junk yard one. I think they are supposed to close when the key is off, and when the engine is cold you should see it move when someone turns the key on for you. If its moving, clean the plunger and port area good and you should be good to go. James

All these cams, and the Schneider cams are regrinds. I worry about using regrinds. Is there anything I would need to do different using a regrind cam. The Z32 is a 4 cam motor, but anything for the Z31 would work. James

I want to see how you fit a second alternator under the hood too. And what are the three other batteries for? You have a cell phone tower on top of your truck? Talk about good reception! James

Why such large cable? The largest I have ever used on a vehicle was 2/0 cable and that was on an 18 wheeler running 4 batteries. James

I put a power aid spacer on my titan, and once the computer adjusted it had around a 2 second throttle response. I ended up giving it away. Didn't notice any extra power from it or fuel mileage just a whistle and a delay. I don't have a video of my pathy but I have one of what I wish it would sound like! And go like! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyG9HdRyVR8 This is with AEM Brute force intake and JBA catback. In the truck you can hardly hear the exhaust though, this is mostly intake sound. James

Anyone?

Build yourself one of these! http://www.motoiq.com/projects/project_nissan_pathfinder.aspx They got their's up to 24mpg on the highway with lots of power too. James

Anyone have an FSM with wiring diagrams for an 87SE V6 5 speed? I need the wiring mostly for the ECM harness but an under hood diagram would be helpful too. James

I was hoping to add a handle in the rear on the passenger side to help back seat passengers get out. I removed the trim and there was no threaded holes waiting for me so I shelved the project. I might add this one if I can find a red handle. James

My1path and Kingman, I hope y'all happy! Now all I think about is building a VG! I'm getting eye strain from trying to surf VG sites on my phone at work. Now I have to build a VG33. I've been studying as much as I can lately. I see y'all point about the OBDI system. It looks very easy to program. My brother is a computer tech so burning eproms is no problem, they have all the equipment to do it. So I guess I will need the injection system, harness and computer from a 94 or 95 pathy, but use the intake and injectors from a 3.3. As for the motor build Nissan Nut pretty much covered all of that so I will just follow his build but put some aftermarket cams and do some head work. It's a pity a VQ30DE won't fit in our trucks, Jim Wolf has a schematic on how to wire one in a dune buggy or race car with a maxima harness. Looks pretty easy and there are a couple in the local pick a part. That would be pretty under the hood of a WD21! According to this site, http://grannys.tripod.com/2N6VG30.html And quite a few others, all the VG blocks are the same whether they came out of a front wheel drive or rear wheel drive. So a quest or villager motor should work too. From what I'm reading all VG33 are non interference motors. Only the VG30 was interference. So now I need to start collecting parts. My wife is going to be pissed! James

I want OBDII because it give more feedback and its what I'm used to now. I would prefer a stand alone system but what would that cost? Forgive my questions I have been out of automotive and running milling machines since 04. Before that I was in fleet repair since 94. I've only been playing with my titan. I have the Uprev tuning software for it but haven't screwed with it much. Even when I was working in the automotive field I mostly did repair and mild upgrades, I never did any major swaps like this. Also remember I'm old! Back in my racing days (teen years) if you wanted more fuel you put a bigger carburetor on it. James

I'm looking to swap my TB for a MPI from a 96 or newer pathy so I have the OBDII system. I think you will become my best friend! Where did you get the schematics for your 88? I have a manual from auto zone but the diagrams arn't as good as the PDF FSMs. James

I don't know about 01 but A 94 maxima and a 91 sentra were the same as my 87. Haven't found any 01s in the pick a part yet. James

If you need a new pump raid the pick a part. The pump off of most nissan cars will fit. James

We'll forgive you this time just don't let it happen again! James

The wire for the a/c is a plastic plug that is made to mate with another plastic plug. The one for the dizzy is a soft rubber covered plug with no locking tabs to mate with another plug. James