JamesRich

Did you check the switch on your clutch pedal? James

Some people don't worry about the electronics! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myoGc_PLyeM http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbQohYlnILg As far a silicone on the distributor, I hear people referring to it but I don't know if that would work. When cold water hits a hot distributor cap the cooling effect will make the moisture in the air inside the distributor cap condensate on the inside of the cap. Thats usually what will get you when you run through a puddle too fast, the water splashing against the cap not actually leaking in. I think most distributors are vented anyway. I don't know for sure I never played submarine with my vehicles yet. I have spent many rainy nights in my old ford thunderbird with my sock and a lighter trying to dry out the distributor after doing something stupid like trying to hydroplane over a large puddle doing 60mph! James Yes I want a snorkel for my pathy because it looks cool!

So how did you accomplish that? The ECM cuts the fuel at 6300 rpms on my 87 TBI. James

There is a fuse for the ECCS system I think it's labeled as engine control. Good job on finding the problem, with all those wires open you might have had another power source sending power into the ECU on that pin which would explain why it didn't burn a fuse. James

Before plugging an ECU back in you may want to check that pin 26 with an ohm meter to ground. If it's grounded then try unplugging the EGT sensor to see if it makes a difference. The wiring under the hood is getting kind of hard and crusty with its age, you might just have a wire shorting to ground. I would think if it was a short the ECU fuse would go first though. James

That came out really nice Looks professional too! I'm sure you would know by now if you need to carry anything bigger than will fit in there. It fits your needs. Also do you always work with power tools and bare feet James

I have an 89 FSM in PDF. It's a 112 meg file though. PM me an email and I can send you a link to my dropbox so you can download it. James

If you bought the same ebay premade harness I did (yellow jacket over the wires, link posted above), it should have fusible links on the positive battery connections, you didn't need to add fuses. My harness isn't helping my headlights work any better than they were before, because its still behind the seat! Thanks for the tip on lengthening the ground. James

I knew it would take a while so I would count mine as a good experience. Excellent product just took a little longer than they quoted. Kyle asked me to send them a picture too, but I haven't gotten a chance to take a really good pic yet. I'm definitely no photographer. They definitely need a better WD21 pic! James

I have been thinking about this, grease doesn't last long in there especially if you wash it alot. I'm thinking about making my own pins from 17-4 stainless left overs I have. Probably put an E clip on the bottom instead of peening them and a grease zerk on the top or bottom of the pin with a cross drilled hole in the middle of the pin. Just an idea so far. Greasing it through the little holes is a pain in the butt. James

It looks like fuse 61 in the FSM. Change the fuse and if it blows again disconnect the wire you ran to the black wire on the new light harness. If that helps your new wire you ran from the clearance lights is pinched somewhere. Also if the fuse blows again try just unplugging the harness from the new lights. One of them could have a short internally. James

Good choice!

This is the one I use, just not for my pathy. http://www.uprev.com/ It does live data and data logging, and the cylinder balance test and lots of other stuff I never used. They are Nissan specific too and it cost me $700! But I can reprogram too! The first time I tried a flash I killed it and had to pull the ECU and send it to them to straiten it out. They don't list pathfinders on their site but I'm sure they can program them too. James

Your part right, for close range it does! I have one of those too with 3 10 round mags that look like they will touch the floor they are so long. I would like to get one of those 25 round drums for it but at $350 it's more than I paid for the gun. James

The white wire on the new light is ground obviously because it has the ring terminal on it, cut the ring off and connect it to the black wire from you turn signal connectors. The hot wire for the turn signals should be gray/blue on the left and gray/red on the right. On the new lights IIRC the red is the brighter element which would be turn signal and the black wire would be clearance lights. I know the colors are screwy but it's industry standards for big trucks. Now connect the hot from each signal to the red wire on the new lights and your done with the signals. Now pull out your side clearance light to get access to the harness. The hot to the clearance light should be Pink/blue. Splice a new wire into this wire and run it to the black wire on the new lights and you should have clearance light too. If you don't solder and heat shrink your connections use crimp on splices for now. Please don't just twist the wires together and tape. This may take a while so you don't want to attempt it standing in the snow. If you can borrow someones shop it would help alot. James

No he needs an AR in 243 WSSM! Or the new Olympic round 300 OSSM! 30 cal 150 grain projectile at 3000 fps out of a AR! Sweet! Either way, the lift will wear out, the rifle will last forever if taken care off. This is my favorite argument with my wife. She said: You have enough guns. I said: Guns are like womens shoes, you can never have enough. She said: But my shoes don't cost that much. I said: Will any of your shoes last your whole life and be passed down to your kids? Argument over! It's not often a women doesn't have the last word so I have to enjoy those few moments! James

I agree with MY1PATH on the front signals. That is how I wired mine. The two wires from the original signal light go to the ground and brighter element of the new light for turn signals. Test and make sure the ground wire is correct. Then tap into the side marker light for power for the other park light in the new lights. I don't remember the wire colors on the new lights but I can get back to you if you need. The blinking problem sounds like you are loosing your ground in one of your tail lights. When you press the brake, the brake light bulb is grounding through the signal light bulb and canceling it out which make your signals blink faster. Have someone watch your brake lights when you push them, the brake light on the bad side probably wont light up either. James

Thats what I wanted to hear, someone had the same issue and how they fixed it. I love forums! I had already checked the firewall inside, I've encountered that problem before. I'm still going to change both parts, if I ever remember to order them. With the age and mileage of this truck they might be the originals. Also when I bought it, the PO must have lost the cap for the clutch master cylinder and had a plastic bag over it with a rubber band holding it. I replaced the cap from a pick a part but I'm sure some moisture got in there. James

I finally took mine back to the alignment shop to replace the missing shims and fought the clutch the whole way there. This butthead made me wait 3 hours while he supposedly was working on the truck the whole time. It took him 30 minutes to align it the first time. I raided the pick a part and brought him a stack of alignment washers so he wouldn't use the U style shims. He pulled one of the rubber stopper that the upper control arm sits on out and the shim arraignment is completely different than it was before. The side the shims fell out now has only a couple and the passenger side has more than it had before. If it was right before he should have just had to put shims back where they were. I guess I had better take it to another shop to make sure my tires last. While I was there I tagged him on facebook as "the place to get screwed for anything on your car!" Hopefully that will help other people determine what type of place he runs. James

I have heard other comments about bypassing the damper. This is the first vehicle I ever had that has a clutch damper and I've been driving sticks since I started driving so I don't need it. It is a convenient place for a bleeder though, as clutch systems are usually a pain to bleed. The slave and master are both under $20 on rock auto so I will probably change them just to make sure. So how did you bypass yours? Use the line fitting off of the damper on a union? Precise and Alkorahil, y'all think the slave leaks down and then draws air in? I looked it over for leaks but didn't try pulling the boot back to see if there was fluid under it. James

I don't know what a sandwich plate is but I'm not talking about installing a manual gauge permanently. Remove the oil pressure sending unit, screw in a manual gauge, then fire it up. See what kind of pressure you have at an idle, at a rev and in gear where you have been seeing the oil light flickering. If you show good pressure on the manual gauge install a new sending unit. If you don't show good pressure on the manual gauge then you have bigger problems. James

Do I have rust where? On the lines? Nothing is rusted under the truck and nothing had fluid dripping off of it. The fluid didnt look cloudy or nasty when I bled it either. now it's holding it's fluid but not the pedal. I guess I'll just change both the master and the slave cylinders and should be done with that problem. James

I figured I'd ask before I start changing parts. On the way back from my last hunting trip the clutch started acting up. When I got home I checked and the fluid was empty. I filled it up and bled it but didn't drive it since I found out my alignment shims had fallen out. Now 3 weeks later I find time to get it to the alignment shop and the clutch doesn't work. I bled it like 10 damn times and keep getting air out of the damper. After bleeding I have a good pedal, come back 20 minutes later no pedal! I'm about to take a hammer to it! I have no obvious leaks but something had to leak for it to loose the fluid. Could the damper let air back in? It looks to me like the damper is a closed system but every time I crack the bleeder air comes out. James

It could just be the sending unit, but you need to get a manual gauge put on it to check and see how much pressure you have. James

I bet your not rolling the pathfinder much since you got that Z! James