muddfildvaynes

Have anymore pics and different angles to see how exactly it goes together? How does it mount to the tie-rod is it welded or clamped? Would you be able to make some thicker tie-rods and how much would something like that run?

I could definitly benefit from something like this with my 34's, so is this a kit you are going to be selling? How much would it cost and is it bolt on or welding required? Also would you supply the modified tie-rods in the kit and could you make them out of thicker material than the stock ones? I have a problem with going through tie rods when I rock climb..... so the thicker the better. How would this affect the adjustability of the tie-rods for alignment? Is it a stabilizer of one side or both. I figure that you would just have to put it on one side and it would help the whole rack?

So what you are telling me is I can weld the front and not put alot of $ into a locker and put a locker or a LSD with packed clutch discs in the rear and it will be ok?

I was actually thinking about welding my front diff at one time because I have the manual hubs and when driving I could just unlock them and have no problem.... but I don't think my cv's woul dbe able to handle the locked front wnd on the trail and blow through them everytime I took it out probably..... what does everyone else think?

weld?

custom 4link and trimming?

http://nissan4wheelers.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/173609133/m/77610993931

Find a buddy who works with a garage and has a account with a local parts store and use them.

Well my buddy just got back to me, and he said it was the low pressure line, not the high pressure that went; it seems that the low pressure line was bent against my manifold for some reason and it melted.... I have no clue how that came about. Anyways I am glad it was the low pressure one because they want $160 for the low pressure replacement and $260 for the high pressure replacement. The thing is that I can't find a parts store that has it.... Its the return line with the banjo fittings... Maybe make one? Any ideas?

So my brother totalled his 97 2500 diesel suburban by rolling it on the freeway during a snow storm and while we are waiting to get the insurance money for it I am letting him drive the pathy around to get to work and back. He called me last night because he was driving and all the sudden it started smoking so he pulled over and I cam to look at it and power steering fluid was everywhere on the driver side of the engine and pooling on the ground; but the belts were dry and still had a coat of dirt on them. Looks like maybe the high pressure hose went on the pump, but I am not sure as I have not looked at it to much yet because it was cold and dark last night. So I towed it to my buddies shop where it sits now and hopefully gonna go look at it on my lunch break from work. Any ideas?

305 sbc?

Do it, you won't.... lol

I actually have a 4" SFD and 2" lift coils and have not replaced the camber bolts... Just put them in and after the alignment it was all in stock spec....

Was browsing around and it looks like 02silverpathy is offereing a free 4.36 front diff from a 2000 in the free parts section FYI

Haven't done this mod but I am a big guy myself and sleeping back there is a little tight.... but doable. I forget who it is, but a member on here has a calapsable tent that goes on the roof rack that looks pretty comfty.... I remember seeign it the other day will let you know once I remember if you would consider going that route.

No idea.... easiest way to find out is to just try... if it doesn't work out then there is your answer; I just put my spare on the roof between the racks and use a ratchet strap to keep it there.

yes, go to 4x4parts.com to purchase the whole kit or you can purchase the parts individually on the net for a cheaper price

Cost me $80+tax. $20 for 6ft of straight pipe, and $60 for the three elbows ($20 each). So pretty much $100. Put a few pieces of pipe together and weld the connections. If I can do it, I am sure most people here could as well. Even if you have a cheap basic welder, you can do it no problem. If not, you could always use ABS plastic pipe. Still does the same job in the end. Do you have any pics? You used metal instead of pvc or plastic? where did you go through the fender? any pics would be appreciated?

Nice! I haven't had time to install mine yet, they are still wrapped up in a box on my kitchen table lol

I havent run a rear sway bar since I got my pathy, the rear links were shot so I cut them off and unbolted the bar; been running good ever since. As for the front, I actually put some reinforced Moog regreasable links. Most of my flex is from the rear, the front is very stiff but it performs very well I just have to pick good lines while wheeling so I dont mess anything up.

Nice setup looks pretty good, I run a ok setup in mine but I go offroading alot.... I have (2) 12" JL W6's with a 4000 watt amp and a Alpine IVA W205 head unit.... Infinty Platinum speakers... It bumps ok

I actually had the same problem.... It was the junction box on the rear axle where it was leaking.... Turns out it is made from aluminum and I tightened the hard lines to much that they leaked slowely. I just put some lock tight on the fitting when I put it back and it solved the problem....

got my sliders in and now i just need to weld and paint them, will post up pics

(2) $5 7k chain loops from home depot and $7 tow hooks, works perfct on mine for the front, and I use he hitch in the rear.