muddfildvaynes

I welded mine to the factory tow loops and those have 3 bolts a piece then the stock bumper mounts with 3 bolts per side so 6 in total and those 4 bolts in the middle 2 on each side.

I believe the fuel pressure regulator is on top of the engine and looks like a top hat. But if it was the fuel pressure regulator then it would run like dog sh&*....... if it ran. Maybe the return line?

Just picked these up on Ebay while waiting for my other HID's to come in, using my other lights didn't make too much sence to me since my headlights are HID, might as well have HID offroad lights. They are 6000k with 50 watt ballast built into the lights. I made a best offer of $152 plus a 10% ebay coupon and shipping it came out to be $166... not that bad. On another note my offroad lights I had before are now up for sale.... they are 9" generic offroad lights I bought off Ebay in October I think that are SUPER BRIGHT, not that old and I have 3 of them! I bought 4 just in case they got destroyed on the trail which happened to me using a highlift on the trail changing a tire one time so now I only have 3. So I have 3 lights with 3 offroad rock covers and 1 of them has never seen any weather or been installed and just stored in my garage I would sell for $140 for all 3 and you pay shipping which would be pretty cheap.... The rubber grommets for 2 of the lights are junk when I took them off my brush guard so you will need new ones and the rubber grommits for the 3rd light are brand new still. and my new ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220588270861&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

flooding?

What about half doors like these? There is a local guy around me who advertises on CL making these doors.

Has brand new Mile Marker hubs on it.

I am running 34x10.5x15s and I have plenty of room atill.... with 12.5 you are going to rub and peel your fender flares off... that is what happened to me. And you are going to have to do some trimming, 01Silverpathy has a thread on here somewhere about how to fit 33s with the 2" lift and it shows how much trimming he had to do.

I say do it, I have loved my SFD ever since I bought it and installed, I could do so much more stuff after I got it compared from before when I only had the 2" lift. Blieve me four more inches does alot, and being able to keep up with my buddies who are bigger was awsome. My pathfinder is constantly changing, and I have some big plans for it.

They have handled the abuse I have thrown at them until now, I think you should be ok on the initial install with the bolts; but I am going with the welding option. They have held up on so far from the countless abuse I have put them through.... and it has been alot of abuse and alot of hard wheeling; we have plenty of granite here in NH. I think in the long run I dont ever plan on taking it out, unless it is to do a SAS and that is going to require more fabrication than I am already doing.

I just ordered split poly bushings from 4x4parts for the 2 upper and a solid poly bushing for the control arm

the 2 upper bolts on the rear brackets, i have tightened them about 4 times and I am just going to weld the brackets now and gusset them. They stay tight until I take it wheeling and that is pretty much all I do with it nowadays...

I think I am going to go a different route actually, I am going to drill out the holes and buy some nuts and weld them into place so I dont have to worry about this again.

Well I put my pathy on the lift today and did a full inspection of the drivetraine.... And what I found explains the death wobble and some work that I need to do to get it back into shape. As for the wobble it had nothing to do with the ball joints and tierods, it seems that the two bolts on my SFD brackets holding it to the body/subframe keep coming loose as I have had to tighten them down. They have some mud caked between the bracket and bottom of the body/subframe so I am going to have to unbolt it and clean that out. Also like I was suspecting the bushings in my lower control arm on the pass side is shot, so it will need to be replaced. As for the SFD I have some 3/8 sheet steel so I am most likely going to cut some pieces out and weld the brackets between the brackets and body/subframe and reinforce it with some sheet steel and gusset it. I am going to make sure this never happens again. Don't let this dicourage you from doing a SFD by no means because these brackets have held up to the tremendous ammounts of stress I have thrown at them until now... It is just time for me to make them stronger because of the ammount of abuse I put my pathy through. I also found out that the bushings in the upper links of my 4link are finally on there way out, they are pretty much barely there. The wheel bearing on the driver side needs to be tightened up, and my transmission needs to be flushed. I am going to order all thge bushings I need probably poly split bushings for the 4link and what should I do about my lower control arm bushings.... is 4x4parts.com the only place to get these or would anyone know anywhere else will other bushings for other vehicles that are cheaper work? Ebay?

Yeah I need to flush mine also, its been awhile and my fluid is brownish....

sorry just want to sell it as a whole

$50 for both and buyer pays shipping

Bump still for sale, I also have the stock tow loops that I would sell for $20 if anyone wants them?

So this is the one I bought.... most likely gonna put in in the cubby hole in fron ton the shifter.... take it out of the maroon case and build one to fit it there. I got it on ebay for $90 and the 4runner one is still for sale http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250781553210&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT The one I bought:

Is $95 a reasonable price?

I am at work right now and can't get the measurements but does anyone know in inches how wide that cubby hole is? What could I wire it into to work with the running lights?

Doesn't it need to be on a flat surface? Where could I put it.... under the dash in the cubby hole in front of the shifter that I dont use but that would be out of view.... I have the option of either a old faded maroon d21 inclinometer or a 96 4runner inclinometer that matches my interior better....

Yea it is pretty heavy.... and I am a strong guy.... when I did my SFD and took it out I had to use a jack to lift it and hold in place while I reconnected it; but it was also still full of fluid.

Just read the rebate form.... its for the comp xrc8 winch only..... I got the plain xrc8 winch

So what I am thinking is I am going to try to get a blue top for a decnt price and if I cant I guess I will switch my battery terminals to side post and go with a yellow top battery and use the top post for the winch....

What about mounting to the top of the outer tierod, fab a custom outer tierod with the bolt on top that it would need? Or would that be too far of a reach for stabilizer and rubbing issues between the tierod and the stabilizer while turning? Also from looking at your intial pic it looks like you had to cut some metal out for it to fit in there.... could you take some more pics? I am trying to imagine what all it would incompass to put one of these on.... If it comes to it couldn't you make some inner tierods with a bolt in the location that the stabilizer is clamoped to? Just some ideas