muddfildvaynes

Maybe they have a activating go out now switch built into them and nissan is just now starting to throw the switch lol.... jk; anyways I think it probably had to do with all the mud I have put it through? My muddy engine now has a shiny new distributer and cap. I dont understand how it could just go out......

Well $410 later and it was the Distributer..... at least I now have a new fuel pump.....

4x4parts.com

the area code for maine is 207

Found this in Maine and it has a number to contact.... looks like decent prices especailly for the motor... http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/2009286108.html

Was looking around my local CL and found this for $50.... http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/2059391174.html

I live in New hampshire and still have both my stock rear springs I took out a year ago when I lifted mine. You can have them if you want to pay the shipping. They are in pretty good condition and if I remember correctly there wasn't much if any sag. Yours free if you pay shipping.

Judging from your pic you axle looks like it is moved just a little bit towards the drivers side. That 1/2" on top of the 4" strut spacers in the front makes it look real good. Glad to see another with a SFD; I am actually doing research on a SAS right now that I hope to complete by Sept 2011.

True, I actually just thought of that, and the bushings weren't that hard to fo I just used a ball joint press to get the bushings out and the new ones I slid in by hand. Did you drop the panhard?

That is full droop, I have a set of Rancho RS5000's meant for a 2000 F250 with a 4" lift that I had to put new bushings in; in order to fit. But as you can see my tire is off the ground and I could grab my spring and move it around just a little bit but it would not come out unless i took the shock off and the axle can only drop 2" more and I had to use a crow bar to get the springs in when I put them in, no spring compressor. What shocks are you using?

So I went on vacation to TX for a week and the pathy sat in my driveway and started up fine the battery wasn't dead or anything, the other day the windshield wiper motor on my daily went out so I decided to drive the pathy to work; it started up fine and drove the 15 miles to my work fine; so lunch hour came and I was going to a restraunt and it started up fine and on the way it just felt like it lost power and when I gave it gas the rpms went down and it rolled to a stop and died. I tried to start it about 5 minutes later and it started and idled very rough like when you take the vacuum line off the intake but when you gave it gas again it the rpms would go down until it stalled, if I let it idle it will run for about 45 seconds and die. I checked the computer and the only codes that came up were the codes that have always been there for my knock sensor and EVAP emissions. I am thinking the fuel pump or the filter? I am going to check the fuel pressure on the rail later tonight but am unsure what psi it should be.... I heard 32 psi from a buddy; does anyone have any other ideas? I was thinking about it the other night that maybe my fuel gauge was lying to me and I was out of gas so I put 2 gallons in it and it fired up but a few moment later the same thing happened and it bogged down and stalled so it wasn;t that. When I ran it last the exhaust stank, maybe the cat is clogged? but it felt like good back pressure. Any ideas would help.

Buy the KYB strut lift kit from 4x4parts.com and dont get the rancho's you will also need to go get new upper strut mounts and bearings as the ones that come with the kit fail eventually; with that lift you should be able to fit 31's no problem with some trimming you can fit 33's; as for bumpers there are sites that makes them custom but I dont remember the url so do some searching but it gets expensive; or you could find a local fab shop and have them make you one.

yea you can ask to copy my order; Terry Henry out of Dover NH. I think it was like $290 and then shipping

your either going to have to buy his spring conversion kit that uses jeep springs and then buy the jeep springs, order a set of custom springs like i did, or have someone make it for you.......

I would definitly get KYB Struts for your replacement, you can get them from a couple places online like ebay or other offroad stores like 4x4parts.com or old man emu parts, but I would not get them from autozone as they are probably going to charge you a arm and a leg with the markup like most auto parts stores do; just look around and price things out. As for your springs I would agian try either one of of those makers and you can get stock springs with a higher spring rate if you don't want to lift it. As for your rear shocks, if you are putting money into new springs and struts you should replace those also, the bushings for your 4link can be found on 4x4parts.com and are $40 a link I believe for poly bushings which are much stronger than the rubber ones our links come with and you wont find these bushings at a auto parts store they are a specialty or dealer item only. If you get the stock replacements from the dealer it will cost a smuch as the poly ones but wont las as long; also from what I have heard the poly ones are pretty easy to put in if you get the split bushings whereas the stock replacements from the dealer you have to get pressed in and will cost you more $ unless you or a friend of yours has a press. hope this helped you some....

Changing a caliper is easy, take a clamp and clamp the soft line so no fluid escapes and unbolt the caliper from the bracket and undo the brake line to the caliper and then just attach the brake line to the new caliper and release the clamp. There might be just a little brake fluid that comes out, then you need to pump your brakes a little to get some fluid in the new caliper and go loosen the bleeder valve a little to let the air out until you see just fluid and then just add some brake fluid to you master cylinder resavoir.

Glad to see some more people get the SFD lift, I personally love it except when I have to work on it lol; I actually didn't have to get a alignment just had to adjust my steering wheel to make it straight after I put in the new steerign linkage. The only time I had to get a alignment after the SFD is when I was out on the trail and smapped my tie rod and put a new on in. I never even had to use camber bolts; I still have the original ones in and never messed with. Thanks to Shift220's Strut spacers it kept it in stock alignment.

I run my 34x10.5x15 super swampers at 35 psi on the road and drop them to 12 psi on the trail

I need the cover that goes over the brake fluid resuvoir for the Master cylinder, is that there?

Here is my rig, like I said I am running 34x10.5x15 Super Swampers but I did my trimming before I ever lifted it... When it was stock I threw a pair of 31x10.5x15 mud terrains on it and had to do some good trimming to get them to fit and then I have never had to trim it since even with the tires I am running.

You can run upto a 36 it all depends on how much trimming you want to do..... Silverpathy probably had to do a good ammount of trimming and tucking to fit 33's the way he did.... With a 4" SFD you should be able to run 33's no problem

Well unless you use 2" lift coils like AC... I am running a 4" SFD with 2" AC lift coils so 6" of toal lift and I am running 34x10.5x15 super swampers, was this what you were talking about?... Are you talking about doing a 6" SFD or adding 2" coil spacers and you have the 2" AC lift coils? I think i got confused but please clarify....

I paid $298.60+shipping to have them made from coilsprings.com and no modification was needed to my spring perches as I had them made to fit my spring perch the only thing is like I said I had to add a 1" leveling rubber spacer. For reference my order number is 1872 with them if you want to get another set made it took 2 months to get mine in I believe. I love how my truck handles I have no rear sway bar and beefed up the front sway bar with getting some custom grease able heavy duty sway bar end links made... since it is IFS in the front and it doesn't really flex I just leave my front sway bar connected all the time. There is definitely a noticeable difference but not to much.... You just can't take sharp turns fast..... But when I get on the trail I have so much flex in my rear axle that I make some jeep owners jealous lol. That is no good, I am actually trying to get a set of 4links made right now because my bushings are going to be on there way out soon; its just a little more money than it would be to put new bushings plus it will re-center my axle. And then I have to get a drive shaft made. I personally wouldn't go higher than your 4" SFD because not only will the steering have to be extended more but your brake lines and a couple other lines along with causeing unwanted stress on your drivetrain and might have to get a front drive shaft made.... Plus your stock 4link will only handle 6" of lift unless you get another built and if you lift the front 2" more it will be raked.... I am actually doing research on a SAS right now which should give me about 8"-9" and the benefits of a solid axle helps! Anyways I will quit my rambling and if you have any other questions let me know.

I ordered custom rear coil springs copying the coils tmorgan has in his beast from coil springs.com which I believe i ordered at 4.9" in diameter to fit my spring perch and 6" over stock height with a spring rate of 180lbs but in the end it sagged a extra inch so i added a 1" rubber coil leveling spacer which evened it out. Right now its just sitting in my driveway un til i can do some wheel bearings, raises, and new seals... The mud and water takes its toll.

I am running 34x10.5x15 Super Swampers I have a 4" SFD and 2" Lift coils