muddfildvaynes

I actually had the same problem.... It was the junction box on the rear axle where it was leaking.... Turns out it is made from aluminum and I tightened the hard lines to much that they leaked slowely. I just put some lock tight on the fitting when I put it back and it solved the problem....

got my sliders in and now i just need to weld and paint them, will post up pics

(2) $5 7k chain loops from home depot and $7 tow hooks, works perfct on mine for the front, and I use he hitch in the rear.

CV's are going bad?

good to know... but i do alot of aggresive wheeling so I dont know how it will hold up.... plus I have always been a person to try to do things the right way the first time so I am going to repair it in the next couple days. Its going to be a long next couple weeks, the pathy will get some much needed love as I an going to service the drivetrain like the diffs, transfer case, transmission flush, oil change... And my rock slider will be in from ruggedrocks and I wanna do a snorkel, and a rear bumper if I can get my hands on a plasma cutter. I have been wheeling it pretty hard so it is time for some maintenance.

SO I went to torque the 6 bolts holding CV's in and one of the bolts snapped off inside.... Can I run it like this or is this going to cause me problems? Or will it not bother me until I need to take the CV out eventually? How do I get it out, drill it? Any ideas would help

good write up... I need to start taking pics when I do work.... and like you said there are many ways to change them... I found that if you turn your tires all the way to the left for the passenger cv and the right for the drivers; that the cvs come out without having to drop the control arm.... anyways great write up and hopefully it helps out other members

Yea I took the whole manual hub off... I realized I didn't need to afterwards lol.... it worked out anyways

well the cv was in the way to get the ball joint out yet alone get the new one in.... so i had to remove it and to remove that I had to take the manual hub off....

Well it shouldn't wear out for awhile now.... and at least it didnt happen to me on the trail.... and I play alot lol..... So it was bound to happen... They never said having fun was cheap.

So last weekend me and some buddies decided to go wheeling at midnight to a trail about 15 minutes away from my house.... Its a pretty adventurous trail as I have not even explored most of it but found this pretty awsome loop that takes about a hour to complete. I had just put new wheel bearings in and was testing them out, afterwords I took it to my brothers shop and found the wheel bearings loose so I tightened them and took it on this trail again and up this awsome rock/hill climb I found and had to gass it a couple times in order to make it over this flexy spot (which I am going to have to get pics of me flexing on). Anyways my tires started shaking violently like the death wobble on the way back to my house so I took it back to the shop finally today and after some investigation I found out it was the lower ball joint.... It sucks having to change that ball joint, I had to take my manual hubs off and take the cv axle out, then take the ball joint off... When putting the new Moog joint on the stud built into the pressure plate that goes on the other side of the A-arm decided to start spinning so I had to weld the stud back into the plate and it finally went on after some convincing.... Put it all back together and it finally feels normal again even though there is the shaking of the super swampers.... Glad to be back on the trail/road.

glad to hear it worked out

No prob, and it has metal sleeves that are welded in for the bolts to go through to keep it from pinching like you said; you will have to drill a hole for the second bolt but otherwise its not that hard to do. I used a jack and a hammer to get the panhard in the new holder.

It helps out ALOT....

I need the manual hubs because of the angle my cv's are in with the lift... they are only engauged when I am on the trail..... and forget driveplates.... go SAS... lol

I was stuck per say... was trying to get up a washout in the middle of the night and it took me a couple tries and blowing my hubs....

lol she is a MUDSLUT....

there is a sticker on my window covered right now but my buddy stuck it on without me knowing and it has become a much loved sticker.... "On a quite night you can still hear a ford RUST!!!" lol

We do need to have a SFD only pathy meet to wheel, would be awsome. And yea fluerys we could def meet up one day; just let me know when. And you to bagndrag

I wanted to see if anyone was around the area; would like to meet and possible do some wheeling with you if you are; or if you are not maybe we could someday if you are ever in the area.

congrats

98 Nissan pathfinder parts Date: 2010-10-16, 12:09PM 98 nissan pathfinder for parts -v6 motor- $350 -5 speeed manual transmission- $200 -Transfer case- $150 - Front end or rear end- $150 ea. - Doors- $50 ea -Seats- 35 ea. -some good body panels- make offer Or buy whole pathfinder for PARTS only, $900 Call for more info 858-0788 or 399-7464 Location: skowhegan it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests Original URL: http://maine.craigslist.org/pts/2009286108.html