Simon

Well, I read that COMPLETELY wrong.

Would you prefer that? We could start!

Well.....getting the pitman arm off could be a treat. We did an upgraded steering system on a member's truck a while back and could not budge the nut. Even after a mechanic got the nut removed, they aparently had a real difficult time removing the pitman arm from the steering box. You might want to try looking for a scrapyard steering box assembly to swap in. Replacing the seals on these steering boxes can be a real PITA, as there's a bunch of tiny needle bearings to fall out when you take the box apart.

I use the tiedown points at the rear (loops) with shackles for rear recovery. They work well.

Rearmost injector, passenger side bank.

Welcome. First of all, your body type is R50. Second of all, I'm going to assume the part number you're referring to is a lift kit. Which company's lift kit part number is that? If it's a body lift kit, it will not work, as your truck is Unibody. No frame to lift the body off of. Pretty much the only place to get a lift for your truck is at 4x4parts.com They sell a 2" suspension lift that actually gives you closer to 3"

Yeah....so I've heard. At any rate, I've just installed the 2nd one he sent me on my new truck, and they've both been rock solid. The only reason for the replacement is taper size, as I initially had a small taper model..

I never had an issue with power, or gearing with my 33's. My steering stays true, and it's a Hoohaa CL. I think the main thing is control.....don't over gas it, and you'll be fine.

Thanks man. This link is the best trail I've ever run. http://www.canadianpathy.com/photos/ardbegjun1607/index.htm The south trail is 32kms long. The first time it took us 8.5-9 hours to complete, the 2nd time (not those pics) took us 12. It's a difficult trail, made harder the 2nd time by many fallen trees, and deeper, more slippery obstacles due to rain. Unfortunately, I couldn't wheel it the 2nd time, as my truck was broken. Sorry to hijack your thread, Digger....but I posted the first link to show my idea of a moderate trail.

31's will fit on your Pathfinder in stock form. Many of the WD21's came with them from the factory. My old one had 31's to begin with. A "moderate" trail by some people's standards is an "extreme" trail to others. I base that purely upon my experiences on the trails, in comparison to others. For pics of what I'm referring to, check out my webpage (actually, mine, and Pezzy's) for some pics of the trail. The first time I ran it was only with 3" suspension lift and 32" tires. I did not do the hill climb pictured......that had to wait until the body lift, and bigger tires were added. http://www.canadianpathy.com/photos/bobcmay2607/index.htm Oh, and just to let you know....the Red WD21 with the ARB and aluminum rims is my old rig. The red WD21 with the Snorkel is SkinnyPedal's rig, and the Green R50 is Pezzy's.

Nice one GG!

Yeah, if you don't offroad it, you can go with a stock one, and it'll last you a few years at least. They wear out quicker when you're flexing out the front end, with big tires. When I ran 32" tires, I had a perfect stock CL in my truck. One moderate trail, and it was toast.

That's a good price. Last I heard they were around $150 plus shipping.

As I said...if you don't clamp too hard, they work just fine.

Warn. They're probably the best hubs you can buy.

Yeah....another good point, though, I am not 100% sure if the bump stops on the tailgate are adjustable......

Might have to extend the holes on the loop bracket to get it to sit a bit further forward.

Vice grips! I used them when I did mine. Works great. Just don't have them too tight, or they could rip the fuel lines. A little pressure goes a long way.

Just remove the hoop that's mounted to the body....slip a couple of washers on the bolts, under the loop, and then tighten it back down. Push it as far forward as possible as well, as that'll help keep the hatch closed tight. It should only take you about 5 minutes for this repair....no need to remove panels.

Come on DAN....READ!!!

Could be a bad ball joint, or wheel bearing, or strut bearing. Jack it up, then move the tire, and see if you can see movement in the lower ball joint, or the top of the strut. If not, and the wheel moves, it's probably the wheel bearing. If that's the case, typically, you can just repack them, and tighten them up.

The Gas mileage thing, as well as tread wear is also dependant on the tire design and rubber compound. I didn't notice any gas mileage decrease when I went to MT's. Also, climate is a factor as well. Slushy/icy roads and MT's don't mix very well. An AT will serve you better in this regard. Also, in wet weather an AT will be better. The REVO's are a great tire, as are the BFG AT KO's Either one will do very well on the trail, reasonably well in mud, and do very well on the road.

I think you mean the corner lights....aren't all headlights clear?

The 2 prong plug is for the diversity antenna, as Dean mentioned. One wire to the antenna in the windshield, 1 to the normal antenna.

A couple different ways. Either way starts like this.... Cut away any rotted steel, and leave yourself a square-ish area to patch.... either A) Weld in new steel, or Rivet in new steel If A) cut the new piece to fit within the hole, tightly. Weld away, and fill with some automotive seam sealer. if Cut the new piece a bit larger than the hole, and drill holes, and rivet the new piece in. Then fill with automotive seam sealer.