Simon

Put it together, and turn it by hand a couple of times to see if there's any binding. If there is, then DON'T start it. It may be tough to move by hand, but not impossible. You could also pull the ignition wire from the distributor, and bump the starter a little bit until you've gone around a couple of rotations. If you're 180 degrees off, you won't be able to turn the motor by hand past a certain point, as far as I know.

Thanks Pezzy......

Geez B.....you're as bad as Dowser!!! Driver's seat......pfft..... Dowser, the ECU is under the passenger seat. Disregard that part of B's message.

I'm not sure about the lack of noise when you try to start it, but in terms of the stall, mine did the same thing to me one time, and it was the fuel pump. Might be worth a look, if you haven't checked that already.

Could be. Check your tranny mounts as well. COuld be that one broke loose, causing a vibration.

Does it do that in 4wd only? If so, maybe your tires aren't properly balanced. Happened to me before. If it's in 2wd, then I don't know what to tell you.

Mine's only got one heated seat....only driver's. I think it was available in any configuration. The button you're describing doesn't sound familiar though. I'll have to look at mine more closely to see if I can determine what you mean.

Vidro, you can get heated cloth seats in the Pathys. I have one. It may have been there before. Maybe a PO removed the heated seat for some reason and replaced it with a non-heated one?

Sputtering on idle could be the MAF sensor. Or the connection to it. It's a common problem on Pathys. Get the mechanic to start it up, and try to keep it running while he plays with the connection to the MAF. My guess is that it will start to idle right as soon as he does.

As far as I can tell, start from the right rear wheel, because it's the furthest from the reservoir, keep bleeding/refilling the reservoir until all the fluid in the reservoir is clean, and everything coming out of the line is clean. Then repeat for every other wheel until all the fluid at all the bleeders comes out clean. I did that on my parents Exploder, and it seemed to work quite well.

If you do have it, it's usually in a black bag, under the rear seat cushions.

Are you kidding"?!?!? Pics? You can go to the main site, www.nissanpathfinders.com and click on the members rigs section to see a whole pile of them. Or, on the forums here, if you click on people's names, some people have pictures of their Pathy's in their info.

Love winter. Winter means hockey season. My hobbies....hmm.....fixing the cars......playing hockey, playing baseball, watching hockey, playing guitar.......

MM. I haven't got them yet, but have looked into it, and asked the same question. I was told that if you buy the ones specifically for our trucks, they have all the required boots to fit properly. If you buy a generic kit for a V6, you will have to re-use your old boots. As I said, I haven't bought them yet, but that's what I was told at the parts place, and the one I go to is usually pretty good.

That could be true. But it depends on what type of driving I've been doing, and definitely on pads. I've had some pads only last 30,000kms. I've had my current one's on now for 90,000kms. So It all depends.

I'm the same way. Once every 2 years or so, I like to bleed the system completely, and put new fluid in, but I just open the reservoir when I compress the pistons on the caliper, and I've found that sometimes the system "back bleeds" itself during this process. I've never had a problem with soft brakes, so I guess I'm doing something right.

Do you bleed them every time B? I've never bled my brakes when doing them, unless they feel soft after a short run around the block. I figure, why bleed if they still grab hard, and the pedal isn't soft.

My assumption is that I got some POR-15 on the cable when I was spraying the underside of the vehicle (frame and floor) and then pulled the brake up too far. It wouldn't release all of a sudden, and the e-brake handle kept pulling up all on it's own whenever I'd try to release it. I got someone here to pull/release the e-brake while I looked underneath, and saw where it wasn't moving, so my only recourse at that point was to snap the cable, as I had no tools to disconnect anything properly.

There's a small vacuum line that runs in the back near the #6 spark plug (the tough one to get to). It's easily knocked off when you're changing the plugs. Feel around back there, and see if you feel one with an end that's off.

No, I'm not dragging the brakes anymore. I wouldn't have snapped the cable off if I didn't know where it was seized. It's seized in the "exit tube" that goes through the body. The brakes themselves are not seized, that I know for sure. Thanks for the reply on the work. It's just the forward-most part that I have to worry about. There's the "T" where it splits to the two rear tires and everything there is fine. It's up by where it enters the body that is the issue. I'll probably have to replace the cable portion from the handle, to the "T"

I've got 1 12" sub powered by a 350 watt kenwood amp. Pounds hard enough for me, and because it's only a 350, it's small enough to mount to the box, so I can remove it in about 2 minutes as well, for loading purposes. I had a bass tube previously in another vehicle, and it was GARBAGE! Better off with one 10, or 12.

So, my e-brake seized on me this morning, so I tried to loosen it up. No luck, brakes were stuck. I thought, possibly, if I got the cable pulled tighter, then tried to release, it would un-seize. No such luck....brakes simply grabbed harder. So I pulled hard on the lever, and snapped the cable, on purpose, so that I can at least get home without dragging the e-brake. Question is, does anyone know where I can get a new cable, other than a dealership, and how hard is it to replace the cable? I know I have to hook it up under my console, then run it through the floor, but is there more to it than I can see? Thanks in advance for your help folks. Edit.......it's a 95 SE.

Strange...... The "australian-spec thing" makes sense, because as far as I know every U.S or Canadian model 94-95 had the roof speakers. Anyways. Good job on the box!!!

No rear speakers?!?! That's strange! I like your box, and the fact that it's removeable. Are you sure the rear speakers aren't up in the roof? That's where they are on my 95.

I think we basically just said the same thing here Vengeful. Great minds think alike!!