Simon

First thing to do, as has been mentioned here many times, is check all your connections. A loose ground wire, either on the battery, or the vehicle could cause it to do this. If it is the starter, it's not hard to replace, just sometimes a PITA to get out of it's location, but it's do-able. I've never done it on mine, so I'm not sure on the specifics, but I'm sure someone could shed some light. Good luck

I have varialble rate coils on the back of my 95, and they're pretty good. The ride is better than with the stock coils, and when loaded, there's almost no difference in rear ride height, and I had a big problem with that when I had stock coils in there. In my opinion, if you're not going to lift, get these coils....they're Moog Cargo Coils (made by TRW if I'm not mistaken)

I had a problem with mine when my old battery was dying. It was leaking out the negative terminal a bit, and I could tell I was losing power (lights dimming, starter cranking a little slower). When I got my new battery, all was well. Maybe check your connections at your battery? The only other thing, as was already suggested, is the master switch in the driver's door. I know mine was a little flaky for a while, and I lubed it with WD40, and all has been good since, and that was about 8 months ago

Heh heh heh......

I believe, (though not 100% sure), that this was covered in the sticky at the top of the garage page. Oh well, easier to just reply, than to check, so here it is... The crossover for the rear tweeters is in the rear. You can safely bypass the rear amp, and use the tweeters as normal. I'm running 50W into each rear speaker, and my tweeters are fine. The crossover for the front is in the amp. Bypass the amp, and you bypass the crossover. I found that out when I bypassed the amp and almost immediately blew my front tweeters. So you will need a crossover for the front tweeters. Good luck

Well, I'm not sure about the upper ball joints, but I tried to remove a lower one on my 95, and there was NO way I was getting it out. Tried a ball joint tool (think it was referred to as a pickle fork) Tried a HUGE crowbar, tried pry bars, tried hammering all of them to "shock" the ball joint loose, but could not budge it. I had to eventually swallow my pride and take it in to have it pressed out.... :oops: If you can get the upper one off, please let us know how, as I have one of those to do as well. Good luck

Oh, I'm sure mine would have said that same thing. I don't know how many times I'd left a residue of hand cleaner and grease in the laundry room sink, and get in S%!t because she'd put something in there, and it'd be covered in grease and ruined. Oh well, live and learn. Now that I have my own house, I'm sure to rinse out the sink real well. Mom would be so proud!!!!

That's funny.....If, when I lived at home, I told my dad that I was gonna lift my Pathy he'd be all for it. He used to offroad his old 4X4 Jimmy's before my time (the old HUGE full sized ones). I guess I'm lucky that way. My mom wouldn't know the difference. If I told her I was going to lift my truck, she'd be like "That's nice, what do you want for dinner when you're done?"

I got mine, and the cleaning kit for my birthday the year I bought my Pathfinder.... :cool2:

Hmm....I didn't even screw mine down!!!! Just placed it in there, and kinda folded the bottom of the shift boot over it, which keeps it more than steady enough in my case. In terms of being centered......I just push it slightly towards the passenger seat, and make sure when releasing the hand brake, I hit the middle portion of the cupholder. If I do, the brake is off. Works for me

Sounds like a bad ground. Pathy starters are VERY picky on that issue. Maybe when you disconnected the terminal the first time, you pulled the other end of the wire loose from the ground.....I'd check, clean, and retighten the main ground, and see if it starts then. Good luck

Nice looking forum 88. I'll be checking in from time to time.

Here's a picture of the cupholder. On another note.....It's REALLY time to clean out my truck!!! :oops: Check Wal-Mart, that's where I got mine. Good luck

There's gotta be a way to do that, because the VG33 XTerra's have an optional supercharger. The VG33, and the VG30 are basically the same engine if I'm not mistaken, with the 3.3L being bored out (obviously). So there must be a way to fit a supercharger on a VG30. Anyone know what make of Supercharger is on the X?

If you know exactly what the two parts look like, I'd try a wrecker and see if you can get used ones. If so, they'll probably be a lot cheaper than new, and if they blow right off the bat, at least you won't be out $500. just my .02.

Okay....the update..... Got one of the two out by clamping the whole piece in a vice, then using a pipe wrench and a rubber mallet to twist the pin free. That worked okay. Cleaned the hole, regreased, and installed a new pin. For the other, there was no way I was going to get it out, so I drilled it. First making a pilot hole right through the middle, then going with a bit size only slightly smaller than the original hole. Then used the correct sized drill bit to clean/polish the walls of the hole. Installed a new pin, with grease, and it's fixed. Took me about 3 hours in total, but most of that time was spent drilling the old pin out, as they're pretty tough. Had to sharpen the drill bits about 10 times each!!! Thanks for the tips guys....

Sorry did you say 120MPH?!?!?! Is that possible in a Pathfinder?!?!?!? I think you meant 60MPH.

On my 95, I was trying to do a brake job, and found that the pins on my drivers side, front wheel were seized. I managed to get the bracket off the knuckle that has the pins on it, where the caliper bolts onto (previously I'm sure someone used an impact gun to bolt it on, and it was a PITA to get loose). I couldn't free up the pins no matter what I tried (hammering, clamping, put into vise, tried with a pipe wrench to twist). I tried to lubricate with WD40, with no luck. If anyone has any tips/tricks to free them up, I'd be able to clean up the pins, and reinstall. Any thoughts? :help:

Ha ha.....Mustang. F'd on Race Day Sorry, had to throw that one in there!!!

That was my thinking too. Shouldn't vibrate unless somethings warped (either rotor/drum or rim) or something's loose (bushing, ball joint, tie rod, center link). I've never heard of a change in tire size causing vibration.

I have them and I like them. It's nice to open the window a bit in the rain and not get wet, and on the highway, with the windows open a bit, it helps with noise. Although, I do find that they create a little more wind noise with the windows closed, but nothing that turning the stereo up a bit won't cure!!!

Could it be the bolts on the front that are mentioned in the "common problems/fixes" sticky on the top of the forums? Based upon the fact that if you turn left, it does it, then if you turn left again, it doesn't, that would mean that any movement would have happened on the first turn. Sounds like it to me. Anyways, it's a 10 minute fix. Just tighten the 2 bolts as mentioned in the sticky. Good luck

I had a problem with that sound, only once, and it was after I had switched out of 4Hi, back into 2WD. But I got out, and walked beside the truck as my friend rolled it slowly forward, and it turns out that one of my hubs wasn't fully disengaging. I put it back into 4HI, then disengaged again, and all was well. Maybe the dealer is trying to hose you out of 2G's when all you need is new hubs? Just a thought.

Hmmm...... Sevendust Slipknot Disturbed Shinedown Earshot I have something like 80 CD's in my truck right now.......rotating as necessary!!

Does anyone know exactly when the automakers had to switch over to he R134a coolant?