jj big shoe

I tried redoing mine with vinyl but could never get it looking right. I ended up wraping it in the same material that I redid the headliner with. I got the headliner at Jo-Ann Fabrics and used their heavy-duty spray adhesive. It holds up better to heat than the 3M stuff. The material comes in gray or black and its foam-backed, pretty easy to work with. The problem with vinyl is the weight. Unless you get it really tight and secured well it'll sag. Stretching it around my old, brittle plastic pieces created more cracks and problems.

I swapped those out , too.

Once I removed mine to paint them, I used speed nuts and black screws to secure them back in place. The speed nuts come in different lengths and simply slide on to the metal tabs that the plastic push rivets went into. Works great and I can easily remove them again when I need to.

Wow, sorry I assumed. It just reminded me of similar posts from first-time wrenchers. And yes, pulling the trans out was prolly 2nd on my "don't want to do again" list. I think the motor swap was worse since I had to pull the front axle, too. This is actually a good group of people. It just seems we get a bit full of ourselves sometimes and for my part I apologize (I was really trying to be helpful, though). I'm also sorry that you'll prolly die first. If so, can I have your boat?

Simply put, you're answering a question that nobody asked. Yes, that kind of info would be helpful to some but where would it stop? I could post how to aim your headlights or the correct torque sequence for your head bolts but I think its best to wait for someone to inquire about it. Congrats to you that you actually tackled a job and weren't intimidated when it came to wrenching on your truck. Truly that shows great initiative, but posting random "how-to"s on rather basic maintenance proceedures is gonna get you some flack. Don't take it too hard, though. Just remember that most everyone here who has more experience than you is likely older and will die before you will.

^^What he said. I'm no welder but I started with small, non-structural stuff and got the feel(sort of)before making my panhard bar drop bracket. I think the next thing will be a roof rack (still non-structural), then sliders and bumpers. I'm hoping I'll be to the point where I'm welding more than I'm grinding after building the rack. Right now my "total welding time" is about 65% grinding.

Use a swivel mount so you can turn 'em skyward and cook up some flapjacks.

^^He's right. I couldn't find anything decent at the wrecking yards when I was looking for a pair but if you decide to go that route be sure to get the right "bulge" in your fender. 2WD Hardbody fenders will bolt up, but have a smaller bulge over the wheel. All WD21 Pathy and 4WD Hardbody fenders are the same bulge, although there's been mention of square vs. round antenna holes (round = power antenna).

It all depends on tire size and how much your truck is lifted (or how much fender you're willing to remove).

I think I still have my stock length rear Pro Comps if anyone's interested. Trade me for a sticker or something.

They work fine but are a little stiff for my liking.

Like what? A getaway car? Maybe if you stole some old lady's walker.

Good eye, I glossed right over that. If LR89 is right about those temps, that might have something to do with it. I'd start looking into what it takes and what to look out for with LPG conversions.

Overheating is usually the reason for failed head gaskets. Your cooling system is good, right? Maybe you could try a bottle of Bars Leak Head Gasket Repair. If it works it'll get you by for a while, but I would plan for a proper repair in the future.

Pretty simple to check. Jack up one front wheel then have a buddy move it side to side and up and down. You'll prolly see some play in your tie rods or center link.

The difference is about $35-$40 per side.

If there's a wiring connector attatched to your shocks you prolly have the stock adjustables. If you still have the original shocks from '91 they prolly don't work anymore.

I haven't been on the highway since the tire swap, but I'd regularly cruise around 75-80mph. It'll go a little faster, but I don't think there's too much "umph" above that.

The alt should have a bolt under the alt on curved slotted bracket and a long 10mm bolt that acts as a tensioner. Loosen that bolt, then the long bolt which runs thru a threaded piece that the 1st bolt clamps down. You'll see what I mean once you start on it. It might be easier to get to the long bolt thru the wheel well. The power steering pump has cutouts in the pulley to access the bolt you need to loosen (IIRC, it's toward the bottom). You'll have to bump the starter until it lines up or rotate the crank with a 22mm socket. Once loosened, there's another long tensioner bolt like the alt. The A/C belt idler (top center of the engine) has a bolt in the center of the pulley that you loosen, then loosen the long 10mm bolt running straight down toward the pulley.

The coil would normally be mounted on the driver fenderwell, at least on a Pathfinder it is. It might have been moved if the AIV box rusted out and ate through the mounting location (mine did).

Yeah, but the ducks only come by at the end so yesterday's game was a washout. Too bad since Earl was there with the chips and kerosine lamps.

Wheel travel is 6.5". That's with Superlift UCAs, low profile bumpstops, the T-bars removed and the weight of the front end compressing the lower bumpstops. There's a bunch of info on the Sway-Away website in the Tech Room link. It made my head hurt. I also found a couple torsion bar rate and coil rate calculators but couldn't make much sense of them either. http://www.proshocks.com/calcs/torsionrate.htm http://www.alternativecarparts.com/utilities/torsionbars.html

Check the link. It's an article from MoabJeepers where they real world-tested several brands in head-to-head pulls. The Chicago Electric one held up better than some of the big name winches. Winches in Hell

You've definately earned the MacGyver Attaboy Award of the week. Good job, man.

Could carbon build-up cause some sort of pre-ignition scenario? If a cylinder ignites before TDC, couldn't that force it back down the bore and make the engine cycle in reverse?