jj big shoe

Looks like a prop from Total Recall. I wonder if you can pick up triple-boobed chicks in it?

Nice writeup. I grabbed a map light from a JY Pathy a loong time ago and never got around to mounting it. I'll be referencing this post once I do. BTW, is it me or do the relays in your schematic look like sad little robots?

Any other info on this? I'd like to know before I drive 5 hrs roundtrip.

That reminds me of

Whyon't y'all come OBAMA place 'n we kin smoke it up together?

Ban k9sar for being dyslexic.

It should be a standard 2.25"(I think) size gasket. I smeared some Permatex copper on both sides of the gasket before installing it and there's no leaks.

Ban DB since his opinions don't matter. Also ban My1 for a bad memory. It was $400.

Ban Nunya for not using the shift key.

Any idea how much (if any) glare you'd get on the windshield if you mounted lights on the roof baja-style? Once I get to building my roof rack, I'm considering running a hoop/bar up above the windshield for lights.

Wouldn't most any bushing from a Pathy shock work? I would think the eyelet hoop and center bushing hole would be the same on just about any shock for your truck. IIRC, I had to use a couple of my old Pro Comp bushings for my "new" front RS9000s.

Depending on the color you could use my truck's former name given to it by my girlfried, "That blue piece of sh*t littering up the driveway".

Check the simple stuff like vac hoses, run it with the air filter cover open and see where it idles at, maybe clean the MAF, change the fuel filter...

It's a stretch, but howzabout Charlie Chan? CHevy-nissAN

You can drop the engine in without removing the trans if the front axle is removed (at least that's how mine went back in). Just unbolt the mount and slide a jack under the trans. That way you can move it up a little and the engine won't bind on the motor mounts during installation. Then put your engine on the hoist at about a 5 degree angle to the rear and you should be able to slide them together without much drama. I did the whole operation by myself and I'm not good at anything.

Schweet. Take a look at all the known rust areas, y'know? Pick it apart a bit and you might get a better price. Good luck.

My release bearing started howling and I was looking at that same 0.3m measurement when I had the clutch out. It was well within that spec but I decided to get the kit anyway. My old one maybe had 3000 miles on it and IIRC it looked a good bit thinner than the new one.

I'm not sure but unless you're flat broke its a good idea to replace everything clutch related while its apart. An Exidy clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate, release bearing, plot bushing and alignment tool) will run you around $130 or so. The clutch disk alone will be between $50 and $70 if you can find one outside a kit.

I had four Pro Comp 100w spots on mine for a while. They were plenty bright enough and fairly inexpensive, too. I'd repaint the housings before mounting them, though. They seem to rust up a bit within a year or two and I wouldn't go for the chrome ones for the same reason. The 55w spots on the front of mine are Pro Comp and have held up for years after I repainted them.

Someone at www.baja-fab.com I would guess. The website is in spanish but it says they're located in CA.

Try the basic tune-up stuff (plugs, wires, filters, etc.) and see where you're at.

Hmm...now that you mention it, I do see a CV boot. I think I need to clean my monitor screen.

Sweet, but it's 2WD. More Baja-Fab pics

Sound like you're heading in the right direction to me. Definately need to upgrade the centerlink if you plan on anything other than really mild off-roading. There's a headlight mod in the how-to section (I think) that adds larger wires and a relay which bypasses the power-robbing resistance in the headlight circuit. After that I'd get auxiliary lights. They look cool, too.