jj big shoe

When "nice truck" compliments mean more since you had to build it rather than buy it.

Still better than Clooney's effort.

When you've maxed out your lift options and a "Donk" Impala still has more ground clearance.

When your "to do" list could be on "This Old House" (replace carpet, patch holes, paint, fix wiring, seal windows, etc.).

Yeah, there's actually a bunch of mod work involved in that project. Mine fit better when I replaced the seats with ones from an Integra (much thinner) and moved the seat belt receivers from the floor to the seats.

IIRC, two 14mm bolts and maybe a snap ring and the whole lever pops out. Lots of grease and a long spring to deal with, but not hard. It'll be evident once you remove the shift boot. You'll have to heat and bend the lever and test fit with the console a bunch then final mount everything. You also will want to trim the bottom of the console before you paint it since it sits up so high. I have since reverted back to a stock console, though. I couldn't keep trans/exhaust heat from creeping through the seals. But I do have another idea for cupholders sitting in my garage. Just need time to work on them. Wanna hint? Inverted pistons Good luck and post pics when you're finished.

Driver side behind the panel w/ the spinny ashtray near the seat belt housing.

Put a Motley Crue T-shirt on it and that was most of my Friday nights in the 80's.

I did what you're thinking for the rust under my rear seat. I cut the whole floor out and used rivets spaced about 1 1/2 to 2 inches apart (about 150 total) with RTV between the old and new metal. There was no way I'd be able to mold metal around some of the contoured areas that I cut next to the wheel wells so I used a few layers of fiberglass for those bits. Don't forget to take measurements for the center seat mount if you're cutting that part out so the seats sit correctly.

I'm with B on this one. I figure since you got it for nothing and seems like you have plenty of storage area at the hotel why not hold on to it until a cheap engine becomes available? If you just strip some of the goodies off it you'll lose out in the long run.

I'm very sorry for your loss. In time, the days will get better. And remember to laugh now and then, that's how we heal.

I've spent waay too much money on crap alignments. I actually had the dealer refuse me since it was lifted and another shop get it "as close as they could" then have one of my A-arm bolts fall out while I was driving because they stripped the threads. I did my last alignment in the driveway. It's a bit tricky, but not too bad. Took me a few hours, though.

No pics, sorry. I'm out of town this week plus I took the carrier off when I repainted the truck. I still need to get a matching rim and spare for the new shoes on it as well before I bolt the carrier back on. There's not a lot of room, but you only need a small piece crammed in the hinge point. It should stop the rattle provided the rattle is from worn bushings or the pin.

I was weighed going in and out when tossing my old engine at the dump and IIRC, my 87 weighed between 4700-4800lbs.

Cut a small piece of thick-walled rubber hose like fuel line and stuff it in the hinge point. It should be just long enough to be pressed vertically in the U of the body mount so it stays put when opened. The carrier will compress it when closed and it will keep constant pressure on the hinge eliminating the rattle. Mine's been like that for years.

This is it, right? Looks to be pretty well prepped already. Maybe just nut and bolt it, make a few test flights and go racing!

You'll be hard-pressed to find a bolt with the correct thread at the hardware store but if you do actually find some be damn sure they are tough enough. You're putting gobs of stress on the suspension under normal on-road driving and loads more if you run in the dirt. A "grade 8" bolt would be adequate, but that designation is used on SAE (or standard) bolt sizes, not the metric ones which your after. A metric bolt with "8.8" stamped on the head is NOT the same tensile strength as a grade 8 bolt, it's more like a grade 5. Those are best suited for patio furniture and wooden pull-toy ducks. What you would need is a metric 10.9 grade bolt.

Mine still work off an aftermarket alarm, but I had the battery die once and had to climb thru the rear glass hatch.

Good vid. I took the handles and locks off mine for paint and now I know why my locks don't work. Both yellow slide pieces are broken. Thanks for the info!

That is likely the correct way to remove it, but I didn't do any of that. Just remove the door panel and the horizontal trim piece at the bottom of the window (where your arm would rest when the window is down). Pop the upper portion of the seal off the door frame then you should be able to work the rest of the old seal out of the track. Shoot some silicone spray on the tracks and on the new seal then slide them back in. Pay attention as you go so the window rides where its supposed to then pop the rest of it in around the corners and you should be good. I removed the seals from a Hardbody in the JY then installed them in my truck in this manner. Since then I've removed and installed them twice for paint prep without taking the windows or tracks out of the doors so altogether I've done it six times without a problem. Good luck.

Mine has had many names, all given to it by my fiance'. "Truckasaurus" and "The Other Woman" were used for a while, then it was dubbed "That Blue Piece Of Sh&t In The Driveway" until I painted it orange. Lately she just kind of ignores it altogether.

I grafted these in from a mid-80's Chrysler LeBaron turbo.

Sorry for your loss, Jim. Hang in there, it'll get better. Remote fart machine, eh? Sounds like I would have adored her, too.

Yes, recieved and installed Yes, they were red IIRC they were not in Energy Suspension packaging, they came in a white box. I would liken the quality to an ES bushing though, and its a very complete kit w/ lube and sleeves. I searched the web a bunch. These are going to be the only poly bushings you're going to find unless you can somehow find the ES part # (call them, maybe?) or get all the correct dimensions and order them from the ES "universal" section, sorry.

I can't remember what the limitations are, but would it be feasable to make a mount extension on the axle side for the 2" BL crowd seeing as you gots the mad skillz and all?