Jump to content

Due to a hardware failure on the hosts systems, all posts and messages created between May 26th and Jan 13th have been lost. Additionally, if you joined the NPORA Forums community during that time, you'll need to re-register. -NPORA Mod Team *Updated: 05/19/2022 12:15AM PST

jj big shoe

Members
  • Posts

    2,005
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Everything posted by jj big shoe

  1. Sound like you're heading in the right direction to me. Definately need to upgrade the centerlink if you plan on anything other than really mild off-roading. There's a headlight mod in the how-to section (I think) that adds larger wires and a relay which bypasses the power-robbing resistance in the headlight circuit. After that I'd get auxiliary lights. They look cool, too.
  2. You'd mostly want to concern yourself with the front end stuff. If you're sticking mostly to flat(ish) dirt roads and nothing is worn out you shouldn't have any problems at all. Once you decide to takle a few rough areas, you might want to invest in a stronger center link. My brand new stock one egged out the tie rod holes after about 15 minutes of rough trails.
  3. No harm done, thanks for the reply post.
  4. ^^That's what I was thinking. Perhaps something where one soli would throw it into a locked position and another would release it. Haven't thought much about a good way to do that either, but it would eliminate the hazard of losing power and locking your rear brakes up while driving. Dude, lighten up. We're just kicking ideas around here. No need to get bent. I even gave you props for your axle swap idea.The only prob I saw with the line lock way was the constant draw. If it wouldn't sap the batt and if the system was stout enough for extended use (not just a few seconds at the starting line) it sounds like a good idea.
  5. Line locks hold hydro fluid flow. Parking brake is cable.Line locks are also electrically powered. If left active while the ignition is off it'll drain the battery. That's why I suggested making a system (admittedly wierd and prolly a bit complex) that would be active when the power is off. Best thing is probably your axle swap suggestion, but I like the idea of building strange stuff. I'm still thinking about hydraulic sway bar disco's.
  6. You could rig the cables so they're pulled (or better, released) by a heavy duty solenoid like you'd use for a door popper. http://www.a1electric.com/images8/pop-a2-500.jpg You could mount the solenoid right on the axle. That way your cables would run along the top and have no chance of binding or getting snagged. Drop the power leads at the diff and use a long lightweight spring to keep the slack from flopping around or inside a tube mounted from the driveshaft hoop to the pumpkin.
  7. Actually its pretty complete. IIRC the first system I bought didn't have enough air line or the air line looked kinda kinked up and while I was searching for new air line I saw the second system pop up real cheap so I bought it. Looks like you would need some air line and o-rings, maybe have to rebuild an air valve, find/fab a bracket or two and glue the trim on one guage but I think a handy resourceful person such as yourself could cobble it together. Its not nice enough for me to try to offer up for sale in good conscience but if you really need one I'll snap a few pics and we could come up with something. There's a few on ebay right now w/ no bids, though.
  8. I actually have the 5-way adjustables up front and the 9-ways in back. In that pic the rears are set around 5 (right hand guage). I pieced my whole system together over some time using Ebay. All together I think it ended up being under $150 including the shocks plus I still have most of a second remote system left over.
  9. I got the Rancho 9000's for the cool sticker. Are you talking about Rancho's in-cab adjustable system? It uses a small air compressor and hoses to each shock. You can adjust fronts and rears together but not each individually. The air hose mounts where the adjusting knob would be and the air pressure pushes on the ball valve(?) to change the shock settings instead of the knob and spring. Plus the guages will fit (with a little massaging) right where the ashtray goes.
  10. I tried redoing mine with vinyl but could never get it looking right. I ended up wraping it in the same material that I redid the headliner with. I got the headliner at Jo-Ann Fabrics and used their heavy-duty spray adhesive. It holds up better to heat than the 3M stuff. The material comes in gray or black and its foam-backed, pretty easy to work with. The problem with vinyl is the weight. Unless you get it really tight and secured well it'll sag. Stretching it around my old, brittle plastic pieces created more cracks and problems.
  11. Once I removed mine to paint them, I used speed nuts and black screws to secure them back in place. The speed nuts come in different lengths and simply slide on to the metal tabs that the plastic push rivets went into. Works great and I can easily remove them again when I need to.
  12. Wow, sorry I assumed. It just reminded me of similar posts from first-time wrenchers. And yes, pulling the trans out was prolly 2nd on my "don't want to do again" list. I think the motor swap was worse since I had to pull the front axle, too. This is actually a good group of people. It just seems we get a bit full of ourselves sometimes and for my part I apologize (I was really trying to be helpful, though). I'm also sorry that you'll prolly die first. If so, can I have your boat?
  13. Simply put, you're answering a question that nobody asked. Yes, that kind of info would be helpful to some but where would it stop? I could post how to aim your headlights or the correct torque sequence for your head bolts but I think its best to wait for someone to inquire about it. Congrats to you that you actually tackled a job and weren't intimidated when it came to wrenching on your truck. Truly that shows great initiative, but posting random "how-to"s on rather basic maintenance proceedures is gonna get you some flack. Don't take it too hard, though. Just remember that most everyone here who has more experience than you is likely older and will die before you will.
  14. ^^What he said. I'm no welder but I started with small, non-structural stuff and got the feel(sort of)before making my panhard bar drop bracket. I think the next thing will be a roof rack (still non-structural), then sliders and bumpers. I'm hoping I'll be to the point where I'm welding more than I'm grinding after building the rack. Right now my "total welding time" is about 65% grinding.
  15. Use a swivel mount so you can turn 'em skyward and cook up some flapjacks.
  16. ^^He's right. I couldn't find anything decent at the wrecking yards when I was looking for a pair but if you decide to go that route be sure to get the right "bulge" in your fender. 2WD Hardbody fenders will bolt up, but have a smaller bulge over the wheel. All WD21 Pathy and 4WD Hardbody fenders are the same bulge, although there's been mention of square vs. round antenna holes (round = power antenna).
  17. It all depends on tire size and how much your truck is lifted (or how much fender you're willing to remove).
  18. I think I still have my stock length rear Pro Comps if anyone's interested. Trade me for a sticker or something.
  19. They work fine but are a little stiff for my liking.
  20. Didn't happen to see this guy around the ward, did you?
  21. Congrats to you and Mrs. Pickle on one fine looking gherkin.
  22. I thought it was strange that the new GTOs came standard with an auto trans. You have to pay extra for the manual. I guess the writing was on the wall...

Welcome to NPORA Forums

 

Please register to gain full access to the forum.

Make sure you read the Forum Guidelines and don't forget to post a new intro in the New People Start Here! section, to say hi too everyone.

 

-NPORA

×
×
  • Create New...