adamzan

Rebuilt alternators suck, I put one on my truck, a year and a month later it crapped out with no warning. The replacement (warranty) whined and made my truck sound like @!*% so I went and bought a brand new one and now all is silent and charging.

Yeah but in the winter here it takes forever for it to lockup the Torque converter until you've been driving for a while. Sometimes even if you've just been letting it idle it will go back to not locking up in the cold till you've been driving a bit. That is in like -30C though.

Dude even mechanics are wrong sometimes. A 30 year certified mechanic didn't believe me that wd21 cv axles don't spin unless in 4wd with the stock hubs. He was surprised when I showed him. The truck isn't supposed to idle at 1300 rpm.

When you open the hood, look behind the top of the engine (at the firewall) you will see a little 6" hose, make sure it is hooked in and not cracked or missing.

Sounds more like an alternator issue to me.

What simon said, it's not normal. Mine stays at the 750~ even when in gear. I bet he has a vacuum leak. Check the on the fuel pressure regulator its on the back of the intake manifold and likes to fall off.

The 3mm thick hard rubber @!*% where (at least on my pathy) rust seems to only generate under it? I used a hammer and a chisel.

Check your distributor cap and wires. Had this problem on an old mazda and when it was wet out the wires would arc out to ground.

I would have it evacuated and see if it holds a vacuum if not you have a leak somewhere. My 95SE has its factory a/c still working at it is nice and cold. I got it from the original owner. My XE on the other hand I had to replace all the o-rings to stop it from leaking.

You sure its not the battery? When my battery gave up 2 days after I drove back from seattle, you could boost it, then drive all you want but if you shut it off it wouldn't start again. Sounds like a battery to me.

Check your strut tower for rust there is a recall on it.

yep

My dads r50 had that kind of sound and it turned out to be worn out stabilizer links.

You mean the fog lights right? Because the amber lights in the bumper are just turn signals! The foglights were a dealer added option there should be a relay behind the battery somewhere and a fuse inline somewhere. I'd take a pic but my other 95 is not here right now. First things first, did you check the bulbs?

Greased the front end, ujoints, and the slip thing on the front driveshaft. Also noticed this when checking my slide pins:

Here are a couple pics My finger is point it at it in this pic.

The lowers I got from moog didn't have a grease fitting so what I did was use a needle adapter for the grease gun and used it to fill the boot.

The only reason I put the sealer was to make sure no water came in and to make it look nice. And yeah I had some fires under there from the undercoating! Not to sound like an ass but I weld in my driveway all the time without concern for others. There has only been one time someone has come up to me and it was a mother telling me to stop because her kids were staring. I then told her, this is private property, you don't let your kids stare into the sun do you? I may sound like an ass but I couldn't get anything done if I cared about the rest of the people around me. I would rather irritate some peoples eyes than have part of my truck come flying off the highway, killing me or someone else! Then again it is common sense to not stare at something like that.

Just and FYI, Tyler, you can get that terminal cleaner at Canadian tire for like 2 bucks. I have one and it really does a great job.

The duplicolor trim paint is pretty strong. Plus it is easy to touch up.

Duplicolor makes a trim paint that is made for doing this kind of thing, my friend used it on his 88 jetta gli. It came out really nice. http://duplicolor.com/products/trimPaint/ Here is what it looked like:

You could try lubing all of the moving parts in there, but I don't know if it would help. On mine it was so bad that you could move the window side to side and up and down a bit. It wasn't that hard to change but it's nice to have a second set of hands. What I would do is take the panel off and reconnect the switch, then roll the window up and down and you might be able to see what the issue is.

Wow, I did not know that. Guess I should use my welding helmet for grinding from now on!

I don't know the part #s but I do know they are a common thing to be replaced and most parts stores should have them. When that happened on my passenger door it turned out to be a worn window regulator but I would pull the door panel and check for loose parts first Hope this helps.