adamzan

It says 72-80 ft-lbs. It is in the EM (engine mechanical section).

Is this what you need? Uploaded with ImageShack.us

To add to the water wetter thing, I don't think there is ever a time where you should be adding additives to the fluids. I have nearly 240k miles on mine and the engine runs like a top. I've never put any gimmick crap in to "fix" problems other than seafoam trans tune but that was more like a flushing chemical for the tranny. It has never once overheated, has the original rad and runs on standard "all makes and models" coolant. My heater core has a slight leak and my friend suggested I put bars leak in it. Even though I'm selling the truck soon I wouldn't put that @!*% in there.

Thats strange I tow with mine all the time and never blow any fuses.

Here is what the fsm says. Ethylene glycol is the standard green stuff AFAIK. Uploaded with ImageShack.us If I went to the dealer for everything I would have pissed away my life savings in gas and part costs.

I'm pretty sure the wd21s just use the standard green stuff...

I have the Canadian tire brand, (probably made by prestone) coolant in mine and its been fine for over 3 years. Coolant is coolant unless its a vw or something.

Are you sure those numbers aren't in KM since he is from BC

Yup

Buy it and see if you can get it to roll over past 999k

I would start with checking the computer codes.

Lets keep in mind that the r50, unless the OP has modified it, has full time drive flanges which mean theoretically you can switch into 4wd at any speed, though the manual says up to 80km/h. If he has the electronic transfer case (switch on dash instead of floor lever) then he can definitely shift on the fly. Just don't do it while flooring it on ice or something.

Send a PM to AK9849cy on this board. He makes and sells a panhard bracket. I just bought one and it is very well made and installs easily.

You should be able to but you're not supposed to shift it into 4x4 when the rear wheels are spinning because the front are only going as fast as you are rolling while the rears are going faster.

If your abs and brake lights are on, check your brake fluid, could be low.

some people put it in the pocket below the radio i think simon did that

make sure the frame isn't broken on that side also measure the ride height, the fsm tells you how to do it.

I wouldn't want a torque converter that was starved of fluid ^^^

Mine is rotted at the bottom and I had looked into replacing it. Apparently you have to drill out all the spot welds and then do the opposite to put the new one in.

It's an aftermarket part.

That is the classic sign that the rear control arm bushings are worn out.

Well he says he runs 33x12.5 tires. It's going to wander a little more than usual with them. Make sure your alignment is good. A steering damper may not be a bad idea either. Also make sure your front end (ball joints, tie rods, drag link, idler arm) are all tight. Also if you don't have a panhard bar drop bracket, your truck will always pull left and it feels really weird going over bumps and such because you always pull the wheel right a bit to compensate so the truck goes nuts on dips.

I've had 4 pathfinders and none have them :S

I mean the distributor cap and rotor button (under the cap) its the thing all the plug cables go to. Could be the torque converter but at such low mileage I would think it is unlikely. Have you checked your driveshaft u-joints?

Well you know sometimes there are snags in these kinds of projects. This is to be expected. 30 dollars for the right parts sounds fine to me. At least it wouldn't fly apart.