adamzan

Well I guess it depends, if some moron did the brakes the last time and didn't tighten it properly I could see how it would seem that way. Though everything does wear out eventually.

If it is a cluster for a 95 and it had dual trips, it will have the digital trips in the bottom left corner. I knew a guy here that swapped his single trip for a dual trip, and the dual trips worked just fine

Another tip for the case, you can get things called "project boxes" at electronic stores that are made for this kinda thing. I have to pic them up for work all the time, they aren't too expensive and come in many shapes/sizes.

Your shop is retarded then, it is a bit of a process to set the caster/camber properly, but not impossible. There are a few different thicknesses of the shims, according to the FSM, and I know for a fact they are still available. The place that did my old gray one when I lifted it got it right, and it took them about 4 hours but it drove straight and didn't wear the tires funny at all even with 33" tires and a 3" SL. Hell, I got tired of spending money on alignments so I just talked to mr510 and my1path, and learned to do it myself. You shim for the major adjustment, adjust the tbars to fine tune, and then set the toe.

Mine wasn't offroad nor a pathy either. I was with my buddy in his ram and we were hauling my parts pathy to a storage lot, this was in the middle of winter and it was about -30C outside. We heard this funny noise from the motor but couldn't really pinpoint it so we kept going. Stopped off for gas 30 mins later and when we were pulling into the station I could hear this ping ping ping sound. When I got out I could smell burning rubber. Popped the hood and found the belt tensioner bearings were flying out! Ended up having to bum a ride from some random guy to get to a parts store that was 20 miles away. He was nice enough to drive us back too. We installed it and went on our way. Were our fingers ever frozen!

I have it on my 94, except they welded it to the rad support (doesn't bother me any) and the top seems to be just pieces of plate steel....

I used it as well.

Mine also has the ones that seem to "clamp around the frame fwiw. I can snap pics tomorrow morning.

You should have AT fluid in there now, if it is not, you're using the wrong fluid.

Sure took a lot of weight to balance those grabbers

Also when was the last time the timing belt was changed? Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

That is normal, they all do it from what I've seen. Sent from my BlackBerry 9670 using Tapatalk

Your ignition timing cannot suddenly change on its own. It's possible that your timing belt slipped a tooth though.

That sounds like the timing is way off, there seems to be no throttle response at all.

Did you burp the system? (run it with the cap off for a bit, heater on full blast, and topping up the coolant as it goes down and air comes out)

Unless you grease that like weekly, water and @!*% is still gonna find its way in and ruin that joint.

If it is loose, and you can't tighten it anymore, you can put a small screw in between to take the slack out. It's a cheap fix but it works.

The rear glass one actually has a bulb and the switch has the prongs for it, but the wiring isn't there for it. I know this because I took my switch apart to fix it.

Why can't you get to the 02 sensor plug? Its on the little tree of connectors by the fuel filter. It has 3 wires 2 white and 1 black I believe.

Could be the torsion bar splines stripped.

Mine is "supposed" to have this but according to its options but I see no sensor and when you pull nothing happens

That looks sick.

When I went to 33x12.5x15 I noticed a bit of power loss but it was mostly on the freeway and the hilly areas. On the 50mph back roads I actually got better mileage because the rpms were lower.

My 94 SE has The glove box, ashtray, lighted cig lighter, and the lighted ignition key ring thing.

Crank pulley bolt is a 27MM