adamzan

Pull the cluster apart and clean the contacts for the tach with some electronics cleaner (deoxit). I was able to fix a dead/wild tach this way couple years ago.

I love how so many people come on this forum with a problem and think the best solution is "mechanic in a can".

You have to remove the oil pan, and front diff to get to it unless you're pulling the engine out. Getting a used pump means doing that pita twice.

FWIW I used the poly ones in my old 95 and they didn't impede flex as far as I could tell. Those are 33x12.5 tires. I probably could have went further up that hill lol.

If you've never done struts before, and don't have anyone who has around to help, I would take them to a shop to be assembled, and then install them into the truck yourself. Reason being that it is a lot easier and you still save a good chunk of change.

What kind of hills? Mine goes up most fine in OD. Only sometimes will unlock the torque converter and rarely will it shift to 3rd. It shouldn't "bog" at all if it is running correctly. I would check all your sensors as per the FSM. You could always remove your cat, install a test pipe, and see if that makes a difference, if it does then you know that is your problem. Is your timing set correctly? If it isn't it won't perform like it should. These aren't fast trucks but it shouldn't struggle to climb a hill. Also are you running stock sized tires? (either 235/75/15 or 31x10.5x15) Running 33" tires will knock out a bit of power especially on grades.

A pickle fork is nice for the ball joints although not required. I found the pickle fork I bought at Crappy tire was not "tall" enough for the lower joint. The ball joints bolt to the control arm so no press needed. The strut rods you will need a 24mm or 15/16ths wrench as you can't get a socket on the nut on the end of the rod.

I'm going to disagree with the others here, I leave the OD on all the time, unless I'm towing, or I would like to engine brake on a steep grade (rare). My first wd21 went over 400k, 220 of that was mine. I follow the same practice with my new one. When I drove through the rocky mountains I just slowed down to 55mph and it was content with that.<br />

You can get new bolts for the struts that will allow you to adjust the camber. Generally people use them when lifting their vehicle but they could be of some benefit to you if everything else checks out.

There are 2 fairly simple and easy ways. The first is you can get the OEM pin from nissan for about 20 dollars, and a monroe stabilizer from partsource or whatever for about 40-50. The other was is to get an aftermarket kit. In my experience, (I went from a stock monroe replacement, to a rancho aftermarket) the aftermarket ones are stiffer and better if you do a lot of offroading. What kind of problems are you having? What size are your tires? I have used up to 33" tires without a dampener with no issues. Crappy streets and off-road is where you will notice it most.

I had my transmission (auto) out recently, for a rear main seal replacement. And it did smell like burning for quite a while afterwards, I assumed it was all the ATF that dripped all over. We also installed headers at the same time though.

According to the FSM 1 inch of play is within the acceptable range. Bosch plugs are ok, used them in mine before and they were find. I agree with the others about the tension rod bushings, change them and it will tighten things up a bit.

I'm not worried Today I pondered changing my front u joints.

I think his brakes are fine, just that his arthritis doesn't allow him to push the pedal hard enough

Should lift that rear bumper up while you're in there.

Change your o2 sensor.

In that video, at least according to the temp gauge, it is warmed up :S . I agree with the other posters, does it smell of unburned fuel? I had a problem similar to that but it was the o2 sensor, and it happened only when warm.

We had an r50 that was bought near new and I always remember it made this kinda howling noise in the back, it would go away if you let off the gas and if you gave it more. All the fluids were maintained and I could never figure it out. It was a manual tranny. Good luck.<br /><br />

Have you checked rock auto? I think you might be able to buy the sensor separately. I recently had to replace my distributor so I feel your pain! (of paying through the nose for parts in canada)

For me it depends on how stuck they are, if a slight tug will work I usually just do it in 2wd. I try to never "yank" really hard.

Those scratches are from running wipers that are broken or so worn that the metal parts start scraping against the windshield. My old truck had them and I could never remove them until I changed the glass

If you can't find a 24mm, a 15/16" wrench is the same, and what I used. If you take the tires back tell them you want them balanced to zero. Sometimes they need more weights and the tech just gets it "close enough"..

You could always make a line yourself. IIRC it uses the same fittings the brake lines do, and you can buy bulk line for cheap. It is easy to bend by hand.

I would love to take a trip up there sometime. Yea emissions tests here are ridiculous. The shop doesn't make any money off of the test so they try and fail you so they can get you to approve repairs you don't need just to make more money.

I just sold the rig recently to a buddy of mine who is going to use it for a plow truck/wagon hauler on his farm. The body was getting a little too nasty for me but the transmission still worked great. The truck has around 425,000kms on it. Original tranny AFAIK, bought the truck with 180,000km ish.