5523Pathfinder

Maybe once and a while its worth posting a topic that has been discussed before. Maybe someone has something new to add that anyone or everybody could use. I havent seen anything posted about a piggyback controller that is on the Stillen website. I have been curious if it adds more horsepower like it says it does. I believe it is made by Venom? And I believe you can turn it on and off at will. I will double check the search, but hey if its worth the money! Ok, just re-searched and found that the overall consensus is that its not that great, but I didnt see anything about anyone actually installing it on thier pathfinder, oh well, just a thought!

There is also a facotry harness available. Taps into both taillamps and isnt too hard to install.

but did you unplug one of the wires for each of the injectors? Remember you have to disable one at a time. I know its electroinjection thats why you have to do this. sounds like you found the right connector, but just unplugging the connector wont do anything. you have to pull one wire then reconnect the connector to make the other injector operate.

I used a similare harness because mine was Bose. I think it was made by Schosce? I got it from Crutchfield.com.

Wow, I just back read all of the posts and thats a lot of stuff. Like someone said, buy the timing light. No ifs ands or buts, just buy it and use it. Now, I have seen this before. One of you fuel injectors may of failed, mechanicaly. This wont set any codes. Its is acutally very easy to test to see if they are both working. On the top of the TB, the injector wires go back and down to the connector. Just trace the 2 wires for each injector and diconnect one wire per injector one at a time. Once one wire is pulled, plug the connector back in and try to start and run it. If it dont run, the other injector is not working. Then try the same on the other injector, just plug the other one back in. This will tell you if they are operating. You will need a small pin to disconnect the wire. Replacing the injectors is actually pretty easy. Just replace them one at a time! Try this! If you can wire a stereo, you can do this.

Check that center link. When mine went out after wheelin, the tires pointed in on each other and it was all over the road. Raise the front of your rig off the ground and see if the tires striaghten out, or move seperatly. Caster. camber and toe all all adjustable.

Ok, so this is new to me. I was driving home today and heard a very strange noise that was continuous. Started to dread the worse, but found it was just coming from the drive belts. Upon further inspection, I found my alternator belt had flipped on its side! This is strange to me! Never saw that at the dealership. Anyone else had this happen or seen it?

some of those mufflers got a extended warrany by nissan. Call your local dealer and have them run your VIN and ask them if its covered.

I was able to use a in line adapter from Crutchfield that works with the amps. I have used this harness on my pathfinder, my 91 300zx and my brothers 99QX4. They work great and are adjustable. I did "rewire" my 300z but even that was simple by finding the right wires at the amps and cut them and run new wires to the speakers. Try and find a wiring diagram to help yourself. The amps are located behind the left rear side behind the side panel. Hope this helps.

At my work we just changed to Castrol syntec blend. They gave us a big shpeal about waiting to change the oil at 4000 miles instead of 3000. Personaly, I will keep changing mine every 2500-3000 miles. I have seen the damage in too many nissan engines when people dont change the oil on a regular basis.

Hope that your mech. didnt set the belt up wrong! A tooth off will cause all kind of issues.

If the noise is coming from the rear, it may be the muffler that is just below the l.r. door. The baffles inside tend to come loose and create noise. If not, be a little more specific about where the noise is(ie:left,right,front,rear).

Why are you replacing the head gaskets? the only gaskets to replace for the exhaust would be the manifold-to-head gasket. Most guys use the facotry gasket because it is better than the paper gasket they may supply you with. Also, replace all the studs for the manifold. They use updated studs and only take a few minutes to replace if they are not broken.

Yeah, 3-5k sounds aobut right. It would be al lot higher if I didnt do the work myself. I am glad I work on cars some days. I couldnt imagine paying someone to do all that work for me! Lifts-$1000 Tires and wheels(5)-$1500 Locker-$300 Stereo-$700 Maintence and boken stuff-Uhh, forgot, too much! Making people eat thier words when saying "That nissan is going to get stuck!"-Priceless!!!

Yeah, Ive replaced a few of those sensors at work. They used the same manufacturer for those sensors as the crank position sensors that were recalled. And yes, many extended warranties will cover the sensors, but not all. You may also have a Air Flow Meter failing as well, setting the other code(replaced a few of those also!).

The factory trans fluid(Matic-D), already has a modifier in the fluid. Thats why it already smells burnt. There is a additive that you can get from nissan that is a bottle of friction modifier. Not sure of the part number though. Used it for squeak noise in late 90's sentra auto trans.