5523Pathfinder

In the meantime, grab some scotchbrite or sandpaper(not to agressive) and scuff the rotor surfaces inside and out. Go drive it up to 35mph and hit the brakes and keep pressure, but dont come to a complete stop. Do this 3 times then drive around and let the brakes cool. See if that helps.

You may want to check the Inhibitor relay right next to the battery. Have someone try to start it while you tap on the relay. Here is what it looks like...

If you just replaced pads and didnt open the system at all, you shouldn't of got air in. That is unless you let the Master cylinder fluid level go to low. If that was ok, did you burn the pads in correctly? You should of done a series of stops to "burn" the pads into the rotors. Next question would be did you change or resurface the rotors? The new pads need something to bite into. All of these things can cause strange pedal feel. Also, some cheap pads can give that weak pedal feel. I have experience this a couple of times on different vehicles. Swapped in different pads and they worked way better.

Easy Fellas, no big deal. We are just trying to help each other out. Fixing anything over the net is a little tough. Anyways, Tweaked, how much brake fluid have you used so far with all of the bleeding? Definatly sounds like air still. It may take a while manually bleeding to get the air out. I wouldnt even piss with the ABS bleeders. Just bleed at the wheels.

So I put the old calipers on just to make sure I could get pressure again...nothing. So I replaced the master cylinder....bled it and the entire system...still no brake pressure so last week I went out and bought two brand new calipers, bled the system and still no damned pressure. Looks like he did....as well as some other parts

Ok, so you bled the entire system. Did you remove the rear drums and inspect the wheel cylinders and verify they are not leaking? When you bled the brakes, did you make sure there was no air coming out the bleeders. Make sure you start in the right rear (as if you were sitting in the drivers seat). It sound like air in the system or a leak. Double check all of the obvious and make sure you didnt miss anything. Oh, is the pedal stiff when you push on it after bleeding without the engine running? And last idea, did you verify vacuum to the booster? Check those and get back. When I have to bleed brakes when I am not at work, I use a piece of hose and put it into a clean, clear plasitc bottle and fill it with brake fluid so the hose end is submerged. When you bleed the brakes, you can watch the fluid and air go into the bottle. It also helps to keep air from going back in.

Correct! The idea was to add more power and tuneablity. The TBI will be challenged to help put out more power than what it is doing already. A modified connversion of the MPI with the intake is what im getting at. Thats why I said custom ECU and getting it all to fit. The air would have to be measured seperatly if two TBI's were used, or you could convert to a MAP sensor setup. That, of course, would be similar to the GM setup. Obviously this would be all custom. Oh, and the intake was designed to fit the design of the car, not the engine. Not all z cars were turbos. Well, my 91 wasnt anyway.

Well, the 90-95 300zx had dual throttle bodies. A common air flow meter watched the air pass by, and the intake runners crossed and were completely seperate. So, yes, the VG30 "could" do it. As for your application, who knows. If it was possible, and it may be, you could take the intake plenum and runners from a VG30DE and try and fit them. I would also imagine a custom ecu would be necessary to properly control air and fuel mixtures. Ideas are fun!

This is from alldata...

You cold drop the front diff and lower your steering and pull the pan that way. You could easily do that in a day, but you will need a hand getting the diff out. I will see if I can find the details out how to do it.

How well have you maintained the cooling system? I have seen the water pump propellers get corroded away due to the lack of maintence. The thermostat staying closed would do it too.

Ive heard that rumor about those being the same, but im not sure. I do have the pressure plate and disks sitting right here in front of me for my pathy. I do believe the splines are the same. I measure about 9 3/4 inches which I believe is about 250mm(my math may be a touch off) Here are the factory Part Numbers. Disk 30100-88G04 Pressure plate (Clutch Cover) 30210-01G12 I put a ACT clutch in my 91 300zx. I liked it, felt alot better than stock and I could beat on it with little fade. I did have to adjust the clutch master push rod due to higher needed pedal pressure. All in all, the stock clutch components are still pretty decent. Just dont buy a Key Value kit. They dont feel right after install and are not as strong IMHO.

Just caught this on Youtube, and thought I would share... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_tBcix3_O3w...ted&search=

R50 solid axle swap! Sound like a project for Xtreme 4X4 on spike. Get to writing!

Wow! What a freakin' like fest! I would have to say Big Homie has been quite the trooper. He has seen rocks to the underside and trees to the sides. Mud flinging and belts flying. What a great rig. Man its been almost four years now since I traded my Z for him. That was hard to do. But working for Nissan was a great way to scope out all of the problems and know just what it was going to cost me. Jeep was right next door and that is a whole other set of headaches. I think the WD's just look tough! Leke the short kid in school who was just solid musce and would take down the bigger kids all day long, not afraid of anything. I searched for a long time to get just what I wanted, 95 SE with Chrome package! He has been great to modify and upgrade. I love the fact I dont drive the same thing as everyone else, which is another reason for buying a pathy. Matter of fact, I see more pathfinders on the roads that jeeps. Anyway, I have left jeeps behind on the trail and pulled fords off of rocks and they just keep shaking thier heads. Right now he is taking on his biggest challenge ever. Being a commuter, almost 90 miles a day. That has not been the easiest thing to do, being that Im 3+3+33'S. But, Im getting better gas mileage than I was before, and now I actually get to see my low fuel warning lamp come on! What a great rig. I have gotten my money out of him and he is not going anywere. I will get a commuter rig soon, and it will be D21. I should be able to make them run forever. I keep waving to the guys who overpaid for thier 4runner and that it sags in the back! Ok, thats my 2 cents.

What happens with the canisters is that the charcoal beads get sucked all the way up to the intake. Unfortunatly what can happen, is those beads get stuck in just about every solenoid and line in the system. The purge volume control valve in the engine compartment can also stick open slightly, so check that also.

You do not have to remove the motor from the vehicle, just going to take time to drop the front diff. Here are some directon for you..... Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove air duct from engine compartment. Remove cooling fan. Disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove fan shroud. Remove drive belts. Remove crankshaft pulley and front and lower belt covers. Remove undercover, then drain engine oil. On 4x4 models, proceed as follows: Disconnect front propeller shaft from differential carrier. Remove front driveshaft attaching bolts. Remove front differential carrier member bolts. Support front differential carrier with suitable jack and remove attaching fixing bolts. Remove front differential carrier bleeder hose. On 4x4 models, proceed as follows: Remove differential front mounting bolts. Remove front differential carrier. Remove front differential carrier mounting bracket. On all models, remove idler arm. Remove starter motor. On 4x4 models, proceed as follows: Remove transmission to rear engine mounting bracket attaching nuts. Remove engine mounting bolts or nuts. Remove engine gussets. On 4x4 models, raise engine if necessary and disconnect exhaust tube. On all models, remove oil pan attaching bolts and the oil pan. Loosen bolts in sequence, Fig. 1. Remove oil pump assembly. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: Apply a continuous bead of suitable sealant .138 - .177 inch wide to oil pan mating surface. Tighten bolts in reverse order of removal. I have done several oil pans without pushing the engine up or even loosening the mounts, but others I have. Make sure you take your time, borrow a torque wrench for the pump so you dont overdo it! I would make sure you are 100% that its the oil pump. I would make that decision after I tore the timing belt back off and make sure you didnt nic a seal or something like that.

Pinch the fuel return line and see if it runs better..

Stay clean! any kind of dirt or lint will cause issues. I actually rebuilt one at Nissan training and we used lots of brake clean and lint free cloths. Be sure there are nno grooves or nics in the case. Oh yeah, be careful!

I dont know about vapors getting sucked back into the cylinders, but what can happen can cause damage. The On Board Refueling Valve, has been known to let fuel into the vapor lines. This can get into the charcoal canister and the charcoal pellets can get sucked back up the lines and clog them. They could also get sucked all the way into the intake just passed the purge valve. I have seen this personally, and its expensive. Most automakers dont want you to top off the tank to being with. When the pump "clicks", you should stop. Those pellets can get stuck in components and it requires a lot of work to clean and replace all the parts. Matter of fact, I remember someone on here having that happen to them not to long ago.

MPVs are front wheel drive with a AWD alternative if I remember correctly. So.....yeah! I wll double cheak that though. Edit, ok I was wrong. RWD and 4wd are the options. I dont know how everything would bolt up both at the bell housing and crossmembers. I would be worried about overall strength being the MPV is not a off road type vehicle. But I could be wrong!

If its a 3.5(which it should be), it has a timing chain. I would watch out for failing cam timing sensors. Not very hard to replace, but a PITA when they fail. Also, have seen some ignition coil issues causing mystery run rough situations. The stock cooler should be fine, unless you tow. If you tow often, get a bigger cooler. Other than that, pretty good rig!

A even eaiser way to check the compressor operation is to jump the #3 and #5 terminals at the compressor relay. The relay is located on the right fender near the firewall( the last relay-blue or green). Disconnect the relay and look inside for the numbers. Locate those terminals, one will have power, the other wont. Jump 3 and 5 only! You should hear the compressor click, or if its running, engauge and begin to cool. Tools needed- test light and jumper wire.

I noticed that thing last night in my copy! Thought it would be a good alternative for those who dont want the tire carrier, but still want the spare. Now if it didnt cost so much to have a custom hitch for us with a body lift.... http://www.tiregate.com/hg.shtml

Here are some labor times and prices from Alldata. I imagine that whatever shop you go to should be in this pricing area(well, the time x thier labor rate)........ 1993 Nissan-Datsun Truck Pathfinder 4WD V6-2960cc 3.0L SOHC MFI (VG30E) Vehicle Level Steering and Suspension Suspension Ball Joint Parts Information Parts Information Part OEM Part Price Ball Joint Front Suspension - Upper Ball Joints 4011001G25 $59.45 - Lower Ball Joint 4016093G25 $74.92 Ball Joint Replace Front Suspension Upper Ball Joint One Side 1.1 Includes: Adjust Toe-In. Both Sides 2.0 Includes: Adjust Toe-In. Lower Ball Joint One Side 1.3 Does not Include: Adjust Toe-In. Both Sides 1.8 Notes Does not Include: Adjust Toe-In.