turbopath

Your experience with the maxima is entirely different. Lowering springs would probably make that noise on the pathfinder too. (Although they do sell these little sleeves to jam in there). Almost every lowering coil I've seen that actually has a decent drop will clang. The pathfinder lift coils ensures that they stay further apart.

You can pass emissions just fine with aftermarket cats. They just check to make sure you have some and that they actually work. This is based on CA emissions experience. Either way, I guess I could just cut the flange off of whatever headers you get made.

eh, the factory cats suck...why not vote for the catless header and put your own on?

There is a performance gain from not running cats....HOWEVER, that's the oem cats. An aftermarket cat like one from catco or magnaflow has only marginal performance loss (like 1hp) and will keep the earth greener. I had some dyno charts tucked away somewhere, lemme find them.

there was a tsb on high altitude problems...gotta find it though.

I thought that was called the bypass hose...no biggie though. Definitely get it done though. Mine had 1.5 inches of deflection with no more than 1-2 lbs of pressure. Very loose and worn.

I would normally use air first, but I had to leave my compressor at home.

Got it with the chain wrench...Thanks.

Anyone know any tricks for getting that stupid nut off? It's rusted on there nicely. Feels like a chain wrench will just bend the pulley. Usually there are a few spokes in these things you can stick something in...but nothing here. (VG33e) Thanks.

Thanks. I ordered my stuff yesterday.

A sock filter...not the kind you wear.

I need a few part numbers. I'm looking for a part number for the blower motor on a 98 R50, distributor cap, and rotor. Thanks much.

I am 100% against going catless. However, if you accidentally cut off your exhaust and showed up with a set of cats any shop will help you out. Just make sure they have a nice bender. I put a header on my saturn that was a similar situation and they just bent up some pieces to fit the outlet of the header to the exhaust. Got 42mpg after that. lol.

Yes. Obviously you'll have to put in your own exhaust from the header out though.

You mean no ecu that plugs into the harness.... Although that may not help you in an area that requires emissions.

No, the drainback holes go behind the oil rings...for those who don't know about motors, that's below the compression rings. Without them, you end up burning more oil than you would otherwise. The long hole in the bottom ring of this piston is an oil drainback. The engine would always burn oil with 205 compression on each cylinder =no blowby. It just had nowhere for the oil to go. Cylinder walls and wristpins get oiled either by squirters or the crank flinging oil up to the bottom of the walls...and the oil control rings drag the oil up the cylinder walls. The point of a drainback is to keep too much of it from getting past the compression rings.

no, that was 98silverpathy...and the vg33 can make a crap load of power. The problem is no one here besides 98 had the balls to do it. If you don't believe me...check out what some RX7 guys have done to the "hopeless" VG33 (they intentionally got the VG33 for the extra displacement over the VG30det.) The hp numbers will surprise you.

ya, so far all I have found is improvements (and then made them) in my other car. Dumb engineers didn't even have oil drainbacks in the pistons... I'm pretty sure I'll get some good results with this.

I talked to spencer...he says they fit. However, you'll have to make a custom exhaust from the headers out and make sure you have him terminate the header with a flexpipe for you. He'll put whatever you want on them since they're hand made in the shop.

The point is to prevent harmonics during operating rpms, so whatever is on the end just has to be able to absorb them. The only engines I've seen grenade were due to extra long cranks in an inline 6 with harmonics that resonated at 7k rpm...exactly where the engine spent most of its time on the track. German precision for ya. The crank pullies make a big difference as a whole because they are what turn the entire assembly. So if you reduce their size 20%, you just slowed down all of the accessories by that amount. Most companies offer just a crank pulley, or a combo of crank, alt, and water pump. The alt pullies are usually lighter and a little smaller to keep it at an ideal speed at idle. I actually gained 8whp on my other car from the pullies and revved just a hair quicker from ditching the 15lb weight on the crank. What I found interesting was removing the belt altogether resulted in lost hp. I'm guessing that alternator cranks out some serious juice. Regardless, I'll let my motor be the guinea pig since I have to replace the t-belt anyway. If it grenades...I'll build another.

I can do whatever someone wants to send me... I'll get some better price estimates once I can get a pulley down to the cnc guy. There are a few shops around, so I'll take my time and get the best price. The prices drop significantly the more I have made as they have to set it up etc. I'd like to do a set of pullies eventually, like crank, alt, and ps. With my saturn pulley, the aluminum crank pulley weighs something like 4lbs and factory one weighed in around 15+. That's a particularly heavy one because it used weight to dampen noise. It got a little noisier with aluminum, but the crank was still safe. I'm planning on getting some kind of damper on there to keep the aluminum from vibrating on the path. I just haven't decided on a material yet.

Anyone interested? I've used these on other cars with good results. I've got a CNC lathe lined up to crack out some pullies out of aluminum. I'm going about 20% smaller on the crank pullies. I won't be able to get exact prices until I find some spare pullies to take to the shop. There will be a steel sleeve over the seal end of the pulley as prior experience shows that the front seal can wear out the aluminum.

a good resonator will make a big difference in exhaust tone. Just throw a 2.5 inch cherry bomb at the back and it will be nice. Eh, I mean with a muffler btw.

How about a list for everything that should be replaced with a high mileage t-belt swap. I've got 150k on the original belt and it still looks good. lol. I'm ordering the belt, tensioner, front main seal, cam seals, water pump, and radiator hoses from nissanparts.cc for 190 bucks. What else needs to be on this list if I don't want to look at it for a long time. Are there any gaskets on the front covers? The fsm seems kinda vague on this for some reason.

I pulled the tranny dipstick today....and the fluid wasn't red! It was some yellowish color. wtf? Didn't smell like engine oil or gear lube. Either way I flushed that crap out. Just thought it was weird. Is the nissan matic stuff not red? I just filled it with dexron3.