turbopath

Now I just need to get all of that vatozone chrome off of it, throw on another inch or two to the ride height and this thing will be bangin.

after

before

Just thought I'd pitch in here. Back in my heep days we would go to junkyards and grab the louvers off of Z34 chevy luminas and cut little holes on the outer edge of the hood on either side. Actually dropped underhood temps 50 degrees. I don't think pathy engine bays are engineered as poorly as the grand cherokees though. Probably won't see as much of a drop. Another trick I've seen is a small reverse mounted hood scoop on one side of the hood with a fan/shroud attached to it. That was a turbo racecar though...haha.

I wouldn't say aftermarket is as good as oe...but they're good enough to get by on for a few years at a time. Example...oem belt tensioner lasted me 10 years and 100k miles. Aftermarket lasted 20k miles. I've been in the parts business long enough to be disgusted with a few things.

got pics? I just broke one of the cool ones I had from a newer R50.

if you need any help getting stuff...let me know. I've got a bunch of toys laying around. My latest find is this- www.adaptronic.com.au A self tuning standalone. muhahahaha. Going in the turbo car of course.

les schwab sold me the tool for 30 bucks I think.

http://www.rockcrawler.com/features/newssh...estone_revo.asp Check out the pic halfway down. pathy ftw

So these tires need to make it through a whole crapload of city driving, with the occasional trip to moab or some canyon. So treadwear and noise are both issues. Any suggestions?

It would be an entire front cut...so yes, everything included. I'm willing to bet a lot of the accessories could be found on a gas powered r50's for replacement parts. Anything major that went wrong would be down for weeks anyway...be it gas or diesel. Ordering is not that bad. It only took me a week or so to import a bunch of parts for my other engines. The rest of the parts for them I was able to find on usdm engines. Just so you guys know...I'm talking about 6 months away. The guy will be going to japan in a couple months, and then you can count on at least a month for the container to get to the us. I'm working on finding a mexican supplier though. So far I've found one company that will ship me an engine.

You can import the front cut. You will have to order parts. There are a few dealerships in mexico that will ship. Just think...170hp and 300ftlbs without upping the boost. I've got two "illegal" engines in my garage right now for a different car. As long as someone has a license they don't care.

ya, something always goes wrong with swaps...that's why I say it's not for the faint of heart. haha. I'll find out what would have to be modified. I'm betting it will be ok because the diesel also came in the mexican lhd pathfinders. I'd actually rather get my paws on a navara/terrano because importing would be significantly easier.

Just thought I would check in and see if anyone is interested. I know a guy who has an importing license who can bring back a crapload of turbo diesel pathfinder engines (front cuts). They would have all of the accessories, wire harness, turbo, etc. Basically everything from the dash forward. They would cost around 2k shipped to the us, but if there are enough to fill a container it would be a bit cheaper. So...who would be interested? BTW, you'll need to live in an area without emissions...like me. haha. Edit: this is definitely not for the weak of heart or those with little mechanical experience.

This is a longshot, but poke at the wires with your key and see if they pop. I've had two cars do this to me now...the battery wires corroded on the inside. They looked fine, but after I poked it a little they were brittle and powder came out. Swapped the wires and went on my merry way. Your dome light should be coming on if it was the ign switch.

ouch...you're almost there! Sounds like your honda mechanic screwed you.

Oh ya, on the lifter noise.... I haven't checked to see what style lifters my pathfinder has, but it's very possible your mechanic didn't adjust them right and part of your misfire is from a few slightly bent valves. I've had problems with hydraulic lifters getting pissed off with aftermarket cams. I'd pop off the valve cover and see if any look collapsed.

There is one other very big reason for a random misfire...UNTUNED CAMS. I may be a noob on this forum, but I've been around this crap a long time. I'll give you two reasons to do it. #1, you will make more hp #2 your idle will be improved and the misfire will stop. Now let me tell you why. The factory pcm was never meant to deal with the fluctuations that aftermarket cams cause. It's meant to be a shotgun approach to running an oem spec engine with an allotted amount of variance. So in a nutshell, the pcm sits there and tries to compensate with fuel for all of the weird fluctuations it's seeing. This fuel garbage causes misfires. PCM is just dumb as hell when it comes to this stuff. Your idle will suck until you get a safc or e-manage and tune it out. You will also pick up a lot more power and remove the dead spots in your power band. I picked up 15hp just tuning cams on a 4cyl. Now, if you want to go the cheap way to fix this...you can gap your plugs smaller and put a 103 capacitor on the ground wire from the MAF. That will only fix your idle though. You'll never get the most out of your mods until you tune it. (on a dyno) That way we get to look at the results too

I had a problem similar to that on my other car with aftermarket cams. For some reason the cams screwed up a couple lifters and smashed them in. Couldn't figure out why. But since the valves weren't opening like they should it misfired like crazy. Some of your misfire you can wipe out with a safc btw. You'll be amazed what a little fuel tuning will do.

Well, what happens with a lot of other cars is the valve body builds up tarnish over time. Usually the gears you don't use as much are the first to go. ie..Reverse. It will start to take a while to go into D from Park, shifts become rough, and it will slip under load because the clutch for the gear you're in doesn't get enough oil.

So is that close to 42 USD (dealership price) for a tie rod end? I thought the AUD had a good exchange rate lately...if so, that's pitiful pricing.

Just wondering...has anyone tried replacing the valve body to see if it fixes the problem?

aka...not cold air intake. Just a filter.

whew, I didn't want to pull the spindle to flip it around. haha. It seemed like it would logically go against the bulbish end of the axle, but I could also see it being chamfered to prevent contact with the needle bearing. I'm kinda thinking the retaining nut might not matter. I put it on the way it came off, but I seriously doubt the skill of the person who worked on it last.

It sucks because an automatic loads the engine at idle when in gear. So if you have cams with a crappy idle, you sit there at stop lights about to get whiplash. You don't notice it as much with a 5spd because the motor isn't loaded by anything but accessories and you can have a smoother engagement when you start rolling slowly than the auto will. I would have to slip my clutch out at 1500 rpm to get rolling, but that was a much more aggressive cam than the S1's I bet. (not a pathy) Some people have had luck putting a very small capacitor on the ground wire of the MAF to cover some of the spikes from the cams. I think the MAF system is a little smarter than MAP when it comes to cams, so I bet you should be able to clean up your idle and make better power across the board with a good tune.