Tungsten

I still manage to get decent MPGs for having the drive-ability of a dumpster. The oxygen sensor is a big factor too but it has even more effect if you are running a performance exhaust. Of course, the other thing that matters is correct timing. There is a diagnostic mode for the oxygen sensor in the FSM.

There are 2 nuts you have to turn to loosen the belt tension.

Too much oil is how you get leaking seals. I wouldn't trust that dip stick too much then.

Have you tried a tune-up and have you checked your timing with a light?

5 quarts? Are you mad? The FSM calls for 3 5/8 quarts and that's with the oil filter on. You can use your additives and make that an even 4 quarts but no more than that.

Lower the boost or definitely change to manual. The automatic is already as beefed up as it can be. It's the heavy duty version of the WD21 transmission.

Thanks! Yep, my caliper reads 13.5mm on the hose as well. Apparently I was only 0.5mm off! D'oh! Looks like one size down from what I have now should be good then; the 12-14mm clamp is what I need.

The VG33E also has more torque from more displacement and it's much newer on top of that.

I decided to change my rusty fuel filter and ended up breaking one of the clamps. Long story short, I went to NAPA and got 14-16mm fuel line hose clamps but they ended up being a little bit too big. When I measured the OD of the fuel line with a caliper, the reading was somewhere between 13mm and 14mm. Does anyone know the right size? I don't want to use worm drive regular hose clamps here either.

He can buy a nice WD21 for that.

sounds like the engine isn't getting enough fuel

You should definitely use the VG30E camshafts if you want to boost with a turbo or something. Other than that you may lose a little efficiency with the VG30E cams but you will get more top end power. It really depends on your driving profile. If you like to race the engine, the VG30E cams are better. If you like to have more power down low then stick with your current camshafts.

Greater duration results in more peak power at the expense of low rpm efficiency aka torque. Higher lift has more top end power because more air will enter and more exhaust will leave, however the engine has to work harder to push those valves open, which again results in low rpm inefficiency.

If you are using the automatic, I don't think it will handle anything over 270-ish HP. You will notice it when the transmission starts to slip. If you are using a manual you should be good until 500 HP or so.

FYI: That engine will go explode if you put as much as 10 PSI into the block. I would not go over 8 PSI just for safety. You will have to completely rebuild the motor with lower compression pistons if you want to boost it above that. Also, stock VQ engines are known to blow up when boosted without a proper tune, even at a low PSI setting.

I don't remember any first gen that has illuminated window switches. I'm pretty sure it's just white paint. Mine brushed off on some of the buttons too.

I wish the dealers could also repair WD21 frames.

You don't need premium fuel if you are running the good old factory VG compression ratio. You will have more power with regular gas! The camshafts will change your torque band. You should go with the VG33E camshafts if you like more low end torque and VG30E camshafts for more top end power. The VG33E camshafts are much more conservative when it comes to fuel economy than the VG30E camshafts. It's your pick!

I wouldn't bother with cleaning the grease off anywhere except for the wiring. Think of all that grease as an anti-rust coating.

Just to add something: For wiring, I would use 14 AWG wiring to all of the speakers.

In my experience with VG engines, you will either be on the raspy side or on the quiet side and there is nothing in between. The 50 so far worked best for me in achieving a balance. After the muffler, in the tailpipe, you will need to add a resonator to make it quieter or a larger tip to make it more aggressive sounding and that's it. Adding a catalytic converter before the muffler will deepen the sound but your model probably has the pre-cats so not much to be done there.

You bet!

You were probably using the wrong style alternator. You need one that looks like this on the back: