ILoveMyPatty

Sounds like timing to me....

Okay, well as most of you know.. I had an electrical issue with the 12v(+) constant for my stereo when it grounded out and melted the insulation off, all the way from the glovebox area to the fuse panel. I checked the Radio fuse, and it was fine. Turns out that the legend on the panel lid is wrong, and it was a completely different fuse. It was a 10A fuse, and it didn't do its job. I removed my dash, and looked thru the windshield to find the big bundle of wires running along the bottom of the windshield wrapped in tape and wire loom stuff... with one distinct burnt cut down the WHOLE THING like someone had cut it with a knife. Anyway, I'll take my HVAC stuff apart tomorrow to get a closer look at the wires to make sure no neighboring wires got burnt as well... Has anyone else had a faulty fuse before? The fuse looked fine in the panel, until I tried to take it out... it's stuck in there. So I just yanked the wire from the back, and pulled as much of the fuse out as I could... I'll take the panel out and make it a little more safe with that stupid fuse. Blah..... This is taking forever to get 'er back on the trails. I could have worked at McDonalds and bought a new Pathy for the time this thing has been in the shop....

Suspension lifts will most likely vary for everyone, depending on the amount of weight in the cargo area, amount of fuel, age of coil springs, and what type were used, as well as how much the t-bars have been cranked for front height. I'm sure you'll be fine. Just measure with a measuring tape.

I've gone thru every diagram in the Haynes manual with no success. You say PM GhostPath to see if he has the wiring diagram? I think tomorrow I'll tackle the dash. I don't think it burned too far... but then again.. smoke was coming from around the defrost vents... ugghhhh.... new wiring harness anyone? heh...

It's the loom that comes down behind the glovebox and goes into the climate control and radio. Not sure if it goes into the engine compartment or not. I cut away the loom in the engine compartment though, where the big grommet is on the pass side, by the fender. I can't find the small red/grn wire, nor can I find any damaged wires. I think it may have stopped burning behind the dash somewhere. Approx removal and installation time of the dash, uncc?

I see nothing wrong with that. I like those wheels

Now that's some love for your rig.

I'm out as well. Until my Pathy is back on the road, I'm not commiting to a group buy. #1 MWS #2 Statutory Ape #3 Crazyhayseed #4 Island Boy #5 LandShark #6 95shakinPF

It was the 12v (+) wire for the factory stereo. I thought it was fused so I removed the Radio fuse in the panel, and it sparked when it touched the metal again. I don't understand why a hot wire wouldn't be fused... Odd. I pulled the back panel behind the glovebox and I pulled the harness out a bit, and followed the melted wire all the way into the loom and up as high as I could go and it was still melted. So, I need to remove part of the dash to get to it.

How hard is dash removal? I know that uncc has done it, but I'm just curious before I dive into this. And, uncc, when the dash is out, can you follow all of the wires to the firewall? I need to track down this wire and get it fixed, and inspect neighboring wires' insulation. Jeeze, what a headache..... This Pathfinder is really starting to get on my nerves... but she looks so good with those 32x11.50 BFG MT's... Needs a lift though, hehe.

Loooooks to me like the dash is coming out. God dammit.

It did melt the insulation on neighboring wires, but not to the point where there's wire visible. I removed the glove box and dug around way in there, cutting the wrapping off of the wire bundle. redfinder, I did pull the radio fuse for it, but it still arced, which is wierd. Not sure if the amp fuse will make a difference, I'm kinda hesitant to try it... I don't want to start a fire. I popped the hood and cut the protection away from the huge bundle of wires coming out of the large grommet on the pass side, under the hood hinge. Digging around for the red wire with green stripe and grey marks on it... no luck. I was hoping I could find it and cut it, and wrap the end so it would be fine left alone, but nope... couldn't find it. It must change colors or something. So, it's either, I try the amp fuse as well, orrrrr I take the dash out, and get to it.

Well, I was putting my interior back together, and putting on my dash piece that goes around the stereo, ashtray and climate control... annnd I bumped the 12V constant wire for the stereo that I THOUGHT would be fine, since I cut the wire flush with the butt connector and I didn't think anything was sticking out. Apparently it was. It sparked, and welded itself to the metal structural part inside the dash, and before I could pop the hood, grab pliers and undo the cable on the battery... It had burned the insulation off the wire all the way back into the wire loom stuff, the bundle of wires way up inside the dash. I'm screwed. I won't connect the battery again until I sort this out. How do I take my glove box out? I'm thinking that if I do that, then I MIGHT just be able to reach the bundle of wires and fix the problem. Problems galore, one after another... I'm starting to get the feeling that this Pathy will never be back on the road.. I'm really starting to get discouraged. And in addition, the friggen thing when it's running smells like McDonalds. So, I'm thinking something is burnt up in the engine or somthing... I dono... I'm totally not pleased with this thing right now.

Time for me to try some seafoam, if these vac lines don't fix it.

Very good idea. Why didn't I think of that, haha. Aren't most drain plugs magnetic?

So, Costco carries these roof baskets? Does it just get shipped to the closest Costco and you go pick it up? I like the looks of it, lots.

How much of the dipstick broke off? I'm unsure about how the dipstick tube goes into the oil pan, but I would try a long retractable magnet stick before anything else. Might still be long enough that it's just sitting in there. If not, then I believe the front diff has to come out to remove the oil pan, along with the suspension crossmember. If I remember correctly, thats what it looked like to me when I was underneath.

Dannnng, that looks really good man, nice work. Wanna do mine for me now?

Well, I fixed most of the exhaust leak. She sounds ALOT better now. I've still got my 32x11.50 BFG muds on, driving it around the yard, haha. Turning sooo slowly cause they do rub. Maybe it's just because my drivers side fender isn't on all the way (I'm going to snorkel it so this doesn't happen again). Also, there are still a couple lines that go from my carbon canister that are not connected to anything. Unsure if this will make it run crappy or not, but she still runs a little rough (dizzy probably isnt set right still). Could someone get me a picture and description of where the lines from the carbon canister go? I've looked at the vac line diagram in the haynes and I can't get anywhere.

Yep. I had to do that in my dads old Landcruiser, 30km in the bush on a road not big enough to turn around, when the slave cylinder went. Power shifting, into 1st gear so it would be slow enough to turn around at the next wide spot... wasnt wide enough and it stalled. Had to drive "on the starter" for about 20 feet thru a ditch and up onto the road, and winch through occasionally. I bought my Pathy with that clutch switch disabled. It's handy sometimes, reach thru the window and start it, when you're tuning the engine.

My ignition has a hard time turning sometimes. Just work the wheel back and forth a bunch of times, take the key out and put it back in, turn it forwards and back, pull it out a tiny bit and try it again.

If you look straight down on the pulleys, it's easy to find where they go, if the PS Pump, Alty and AC are all in. You can pretty much look straight down and figure it out. Belts always go parallel to the pulleys, not angled

Alternator goes on the back, AC goes on the middle, and up to the tensioner at the top of the timing belt cover (loosen the bolt in the middle, then loosen or tighten the one angled on top for tension. The power steering belt goes on the front.

Steam from the condensation in the fuel? Well, that's probably what it is then. It doesn't smell sweet like coolant, so I think I'm good.

If you go with a bend at the top of the a-pillar, I would put a wire from the top of the opening, down to the pipe going up the a-pillar, so branches will run up the wire and over the top of the snorkel bend, to prevent damage to the curved part at the top and to prevent branches and such from catching on it.