ILoveMyPatty

That's what I'm thinking of doing, getting the new rods, and tightening the crap out of em. I don't have a welder either. It's getting SASed soon anyway, and I don't drive it that much either. Once I get home with it, I may have my buddy weld em in for me.

Yikerdoodles. That's bad news bears. Looks like I wont be getting the part today... on the way into town my dads F-350 diesel broke down and I had to walk home 5km in 30 degree heat. I hate my life.

How big is that hole supposed to be? Tight around the new bushing insert thingy?....

Replace the bushing cups with a bearing race you say? I don't understand what you mean. If I had a welder, I would have already done that, but I don't I'm gonna see if I can go pull the part from a Pathfinder tomorrow, and not tell them exactly what it is....

Yay, every auto wrecker here refuses to sell me just that link, instead want to charge me $90 for the whole control arm, and I cannot afford $180 for them right now... son of a.

I decided to not replace anything in my front end because this summer was supposed to be SAS. But, with the provincial ambulance company on strike, I cannot get hired, nor complete my Paramedic program due to practicum halts. Therefore, I can't get working as a Paramedic, and finding any job is proving to be nearly impossible. I've been going to school since December, so I haven't had the time, tools, or place to work on it, nor the money to have someone work on it. Glad I got 'er under control now... I just need to find new links from a JY or something. Blahhh! AND I have to replace the steel line for my rear pass. side brake.

I had a really bad steering wheel wobble... and I think I found the problem. The lower control arm link, that goes to the frame. The bushings were worn out, and the link was being worn through. Check that bushing?

I FINALLY decided to check what was causing the slight squeak in my front end.... good thing I checked it out.... And a pic of my half-door project. Yes, I know. Ghetto. I'm stressed about school/work/the government being retarded... and needed a way to vent.. so I decided I'd cut up some wood, imagining that it's our Premier....

They do look good, for sure. They're real... that's what ya get when you make REAL half doors! Mine wont look too too bad I don't think...

I just did half-doors out of plywood. Just have to figure out how to latch them. It's super ghetto, but whatever... I was bored. Once I have access to a spare set of doors, I'll chop em up and make them properly, like yours 87. I like the design of OSR's... Nice work.

Whoa man, you drove right by my place. That's Deadman falls. Wicked.

Thing is, I need measurements and such since he wont be able to use my truck to build from. I need it for school every day, and can't get it to him so he can do some work.

I'm looking for some blueprints/auto CAD drawings or something for a front bumper. I've got a buddy that will build me one, but he needs detailed plans, since he wont have my Pathy to "mock up" with. Does anyone have some plans? I still don't know how to use the search function, sorry. Thanks.

Awesome, thanks guys. Yeah the signals are easy to take out. I took em out for my BL, when I relocated my front bumper. Thanks uncc, I'll get on that and see if I can make some more room to connect the wires. I found the real reason why my tail light wouldn't work. The bulb is fine, but one of the wires that connects to the bulb "housing" has come loose. Off to the Junkyard to get another one.

My Passenger side taillight burnt out. The running light. Brake light works fine. I looked behind the panel, and the fix job I had done a couple years ago finally went kaput. Why on earth did Nissan put a hole in our pass. rear fender, for water to spray all over electrical stuff.... Anyway, I need to take my tail light out, to re-wire the running/brake light assembly. I can't figure out how to do it. I pulled the bulb and it's fine, but the wires are too short in there now to re-connect them unless the tail light is out. I'm moving for school in 2 days and need to get this sorted out... as well as my front drivers signal... but thats after I get this fixed. Anyone? Thanks.

Heh, that was an easy/quick find for ya. Thanks alot. Time to get to work.

Well, I've been having a very severe vibration/shaking while driving at 90km/r and finally decided to check my u-joints. Shot. I can take my driveshaft out (eeeeasy) but I don't know the exact way to change U-joints. I suspect I need to block up the rear end, so fluid doesn't come out of the tranny when I pull the driveshaft? Anyone got a link to a writeup or such? I tried a search but I still haven't figured out the search function here.

That's a great price compared to what I paid.... $8200 3 years ago, from a dealership.

I think the question is, why are there so many people in the US? California has more people than all of Canada. I sure as hell wouldn't want to be crowded by a bunch of people constantly... I'm quite content with the population where I live, but when I go to Seattle I want to stab myself in the eye with a pencil. Oh and the Asians are doing a good job of making our population grow like a wildfire. Vancouver is now Hongcouver.

Wickedddd. I'm now thinking of a different engine possibility for when mine craps out again... 5.0L or 33VGER... hmmmm

I think there may be room on the front of it, if you're experienced in fiberglassing.

Gaming designers and companies are all about making money. The ammount of people that are interested in 4x4ing isn't nearly as large as the ammount of people that just like to race fast pimped out cars. Sure, the people that like to 4x4, chew mud, rock crawl and hillclimb are going to play these games, either because they're amazing anyway, or there are no other games that suit their driving style. People that like playing games that are all about high end high hp tuners wont play specific 4x4 games... in my opinion. I believe it's all about money, and making a specific 4x4 game wouldn't yield nearly the same ammount of profit as say GT, NFS and such. Just my opinion though. I'd dig a 4x4 game though.

I have rallied my stock and lifted Pathy at speeds of 60+mph, and haven't come close to lifting a tire. As long as you're sliding smoothly, I don't see a high chance of lifting a tire or rolling, unless you hit a pothole or a ditch. I wouldn't reccommend driving at high speeds on dirt roads unless you know what you're doing. I've lived on this road for 20 years, and been driving on it for 6. I know the road, and know how to drive on dirt/gravel/muddy roads. Don't attempt unless you're 100% confident in your skills.

I've only taken mine out with the fan taken out as well. I've tried to separate my "two piece" shroud with no luck.

Thanks guys. I think the key to making your paint stick well, is to sand the surface down really well (paint wont stick all that well to a clear coat I dont think ) Then clean it really well with rubbing alcohol or the likes. Keep the surface as clean as you can, and you wont have a problem with your paint not sticking. And for the record, this bedliner has held up very well. Thru bushwhacking and mud/rocks hitting it, it hasn't even chipped.