Orangetang

What was the actual height on the one in development, 3.5"? Wouldn't the kit be 'stronger' if it was say, 1.5-2"? Thats all I really want on top of the OME. I havn't researched the subframe drop all that much, but I'm thinking there would be less leverage and stress on the mounting points and kit itself if it wasn't so huge. The steering extension was my biggest concern. Would it still be needed with a 1.5" drop?

Thank you.

This is all I have... Only a break-down of what you need to take apart to get there... We are talking about part #2 (lower manifold) right, rather than the upper. I have a damaged VQ35DE sitting in a barn out of town that I've been meaning to strip down. When I do I'll post comments regarding the tightness of these things. Anyone need parts? I'm pulling injectors and sensors etc... everything else in the metal bin at work.

A little off-topic, but since you started it.... What did you go with for the Magnaflow exhaust and how much did it set you back? I've broken my tailpipe at the elbow in front of the rear silencer... Probably looking at doing a cat-back soon.

I'd recommend the QX4 or at least an SE, since you're getting more comfort and style for you money. I've got an 02' Chilkoot (XE) and which I spent the extra on an LE or SE even.... Also the seats in the XE suck, and you get no sunroof or fender flares.... Stay away from black! VQ is a great engine. I took a VG33 for a drive the other day and can't believe how gutless they are in comparison. Good luck! I paid $19.5K CAD for mine in 2005, so you should be able to get your target price. LSD if you can.

Well, I for one am missing the messageboards at prado. I'm not sure if at a later time I'll be able to get my prado any longer, but I can only hope. I would have ordered one a while back, but this spring has hit my hard financially. Stupid rain! Anyway, I use 1and1.com for hosting and it's very cheap. Domains are $4.99 a year or something. Screw register.com and the bunch. I'm interested in CAD stuff if you're completely done with prado. I plan on installing a ~2" subframe drop in the spring or winter.

-edit I had a chance to install the rear OME lift today. The springs installation was easy and quick, however the shocks didn't go so well. It turns out that Rocky-Road shipped me the wrong shocks. Google found me a match on the product number as being front stiff shocks for '02+ 4Runners. This is somewhat frustrating since I bought this lift almost 3 months ago and it's been sitting in my laundry room since then. Sales are declared final by RR after 60 days The delivery consisted of 2 boxes (pairs) of springs and a box big enough for 2 struts, shocks and hardware. The invoice showed the kit, and has an expanded view of all the parts included, which ARE correct. Darn! I'll let you know what happens because this sounds seems to be a common RR complaint lately. Aside from all of this I'm further disappointed on the finish quality on some of the products. The yellow paint is chipped off the shocks and struts in several spots, however the springs look great. Aside from all of this the rear does sit a little higher than stock, while the ride remains basically the same with a fair amount of weight in the back. Thumbs up for the springs. PICS!

44-46 on the road, 20 or so on the rocks.

I guess I never replied to this once the engine was in, but the install went well and i'm running an identical VQ35DE i grabbed from a wrecker for $1600CAD. It's been running for about a month now with only the voltage regulator dying since then, so all is well. Damage was a bent #3 and #4 piston rod. The rods didn't hit the cylinder walls, but shortened the stroke enough that the counterweight on the crank piled into the side of a piston. Anyone want the engine?

Things started getting really expensive, so I only bought the bearings, and upper/lower insulator/mount. My service manual doesn't show nearly the amount of pieces as there is. $232 for the bearings and pieces with rubber in them. I guess I'll be re-using the bumpers, seats, etc. No pre-assembly.

Is the engine idling up to around 2000rpm when you're out of gear? I cleared the code on mine and the error hasn't come back once.

I need to order some new strut mount assemblies, so I can assemble my OME kit without removing what I have now. I'll need the mount, insulator, bearing, etc... I'm having some troubles with the local dealer as far as service goes, so I'm thinking I'll try shopping elsewhere when I can. I'm able to order some KYB mounts for $68CAD, free shipping. Includes bearing and insulator. Will be going on OME struts. I also want to know if I should re-use the bound bumpers, or buy new ones... or if they're even needed. I imagine they help keep dust and grime out of the strut...

I have the actual bumper and mounts for it, but not urathane body piece you're probably looking for. Free for what I have if you want it.

What size tires are you running dkpath? I'm soon thinking about buying some steel 15x8 wheels for my 02' Chilkoot, which came with narrower factory tires than most models. I havn't isntalled it yet, but I do have an OME lift. I'd like to clear 32" MT tires without rubbing. Which backspacing woudl you recommend and how does this effect the tire sticking out from under the fender? Currently the tires are sitting a fair bit inside the fender. I'd rather have them come out flush or stick out a little.

Thanks for all the help! I had time to get an alternator installed today, and it has completely fixed the problem. Sadly, it appears my daytime running light module may be toasted. My PS lowbeam is out, while the daytime and highbeam still work. Last time this happened I think it cost about $400CAD to replace.

Havn't had time to install mine yet, but I'll let you know. OME struts aswell...

Thanks for the tip. I'm off to buy one. Do you recommend Nissan genuine (Hitachi) or anything I can find from UAP/NAPA etc.

Or, the IC voltage regulator assembly on the alternator? Is this a replaceable part or an entire alternator. Which do you think it is?

Are you fairly positive? I'll go buy one, and install it if you're pretty sure that's the problem. After playing with it a little this morning, I'm also leaning towards a voltage regulator. Say the engine is at 1,200 rpm and nothing is working. I turn on the heater fan to position 2 or higher and stuff works. I increase the rpm to 1,700 or so and it goes to @!*% again. Stuff running off the battery that wouldn't be regulated have no effect on this. IS the regulator on the alternator? I'm having troubles finding this in the service manual. Unless it's the "Combination Meter Charge", which looks to be between the alternator and fuseblock.

This is weird and just stated happening today. When the engine is revved above an idle, the BOSE amp shuts off, and the parking brake light, A/T Temp light, battery light and eventually the ABS light all come on and stay on. There is an audible but faint click in the dash, when this happens. As soon as the rpm drops below 1000rpm all is normal. The same when driving.. Accelerating causes the lights to come on, and the front speakers to turn off, let off the throttle and the rpm drops all is normal. NO odd sounds coming from the alternator or anything like that. Also note that scanguageII shows a reading of ~19.1Volts while this is happening........ I hate electrical problems.... What do you think?

New for me has always been autowrecker. Getting back on topic. I think the VQ is an excellent engine. I don't think I would enjoy the Pathfinder as much with a VG in it. As for the hydrolocking, any engine will hydrolock if you manage to get water in the intake. My situation was just bad luck. When I researched vehicles before buying the NIssan, the VQ was one of the main selling points for me. It's an award winning engine for a reason. Light, powerfull and fairly economic. I'll bet it's as reliable as a VG if proper maintenance and care is give to it. I'm getting 22mpg on this engine, with about 200 pounds of extra stuff haning off the bumper.

You just had to bring that up didn't you?! My new VQ is still running quite nicely.

In general, if a company like 4x4parts sells an OME product, they can more than likely get any of them. I'm betting they don't advertise the springs becuase they're an AC distributor... Why advertise the competition? Anyway, they may or may not. I ordered my lift from rockyroad and the shipping was reasonable. The yellow paint is flimsy and flakes off easily, and one of my struts is missing a fair bit of paint, right out of the box, but I'll probably paint them red or black anyway.

I'll order up some OEM bearings then. Thanks for the advice. Still in BC visiting family, so it'll be a while before I'm home and installing the lift.

If I go in and ask for strut mounts, brackets, bumpers and bearings, will they know what I mean? Some parts guys can be somewhat unhelpfull. The bolts under the hood are very rusty, but I think it'll all come apart with some WD-40, time, and an impact gun. What are camber bolts?