Orangetang

I'll write my VIN down and visit Nissan tomorrow... I can't see this being an LSD. I get stuck everywhere and only one wheel spins, in mud, snow, whatever. There appears to be no "limited"slip happening here. Is it possible Nissan just prefers that grade of fluid in their regular diffs? Part number? Any visual clues other than pulling the inspection cover off? As for LSD additives, I was talking more about the stuff you'd ad to a standard fluid to make it compatible with an LSD.... If there is a such a thing. I don't mind buying the proper stuff, it would just be nice to use whats free and readily available.

Also if it IS NOT compatible, can I just add a LSD additive instead of using a different oil?

I'll take a look when I get the chance. Thanks! On the note of water and how to wreck equipment... Did you ever catch my post of my friends SKi-Doo sinking in a pond? The pond was less than Km from where I hydro-locked and bent my front crossmember and less than 2Km from where I drowned the diff. Maybe just that area is rough on equipment in general

Meets API GL-5 and MT-1 requirements and SAE J2360 Is this not an LSD compatible oil? I'll go grab something that says LSD on it... Just curious about the ratings, codes etc....

I was pretty certain my 02' Chilkoot did NOT come with an LSD, and that only the SE and LE had the option, until I was changing my differential oil today and noticed (after draining the oil) an orange sticker that says "LSD OIL ONLY"... All I had on hand for oil is Petro Canada Traxon E 75w90 Synthetic, which I had already put in the front diff. Here is the description from Petro Canada's website. Is it LSD compatible? Is the orange sticker something that Nissan put on or one of those 3rd party oil change shops? Petro-Canada Traxon E Synthetic 75W/90 Fully synthetic gear oil containing extreme pressure additives for operation under a variety of load conditions with excellent resistance to oxidation for longer life lubrication. Meets API GL-5 and MT-1 requirements and SAE J2360. Are these the requirements for the LSD, or should I change the oil to something else?

I must have accidentally pulled the front diff breather hose off when I did my engine swap, and not noticed. Driving through a river a few weeks ago was probably when this happened. I drained my diff fluid today with the suspicion that I had water in it.... I've been out of town for a week and a bit and last night it was making some whining sounds in 4High... Anyway, I drained it today and sure enough the oil contaminated. It had the clarity of chocolate milk, but was a bit thicker and still had the orange color and smell of gear oil. I refilled it with Petro Canada Traxon E 75w90 synthetic gear oil, the stuff we have at work in a 205L drum. 4High/Low still has a whine that wasn't around before. What do you figure has given in it, or might the gears just have worn a little..... Is there anything I should do further? I'll probably drain it again and refill in a couple of days to make sure all the water is out.

Stupid PSP only lets me write so much... I vote NGK platinums.

I believe the 3.5 uses individual coils on top of the plugs. This may be NDIS, I'm not sure. No distributor cap/rotor or wires to change, only 6 easy plugs.

Payment sent

PM sent. I'm stuck in Rimbey, AB right now and Drayton Valley for the next couple of nights.... Frac'n some wells here finally, but I can send out a PayPal within the next hour or, this evening. 100% want the spacers... My shop is full of grade 8 hardware, so let me know what size I'll want... Also, do the existing studs just hammer out?

I bought the only camber bolts I could find today, from NAPA. BRUTALLY expensive. They were $32.99 each, but he gave me the 'discount' so they were $54 after taxes. I could tell he was sympathetic, since they sell bolts that are less than half the price, but don't stock them, because why would you.... Anyway, if I find cheaper in the morning, he said bring em back... An appointment at Midas has been made for 1pm tomorrow and I talked to one of the service guy who said, we'll charge an arm and a leg for the bolts, so install your own before you come, and we'll get her adjusted for you... Now, I'm curious if all camber bolts are equal or if I should just keep the ones I got. There were options for what kind I could get, single or double or something, I'm not sure. I can post pics of the bolts if you guys need be. Advice would be nice, since I havn't ever used these before and I don't understand why there would be such a huge price gap between the ones online and the ones at NAPA. Secondly, I just put my name on the list for some spacers, which will more than likely wreck my alignment all over again right? On top of that, will a camber bolt capable of +/- 1.75 degree ajustment be enough for that height? THANKS!

Sign me up for a set if you don't mind shipping to Canada. What do you estimate they might cost?

Thanks for the advice everyone. I need that camber fixed anyway, so I'll try to book an appointment tomorrow. Sadly we don't have anything like a Firestone here, just KalTire, OKTire, FountainTire, CanadianTire, Tirecraft and some smaller local shops. You say they'll install alignment bolts if I need them? I'd hate to have it aligned and then need to dothe camber afterwards and screw it up.

Thanks. I've always wondered if they can flex and hop a spline, since the HD mechanics always pull the wheel off, center it and put it back on for our work trucks. They're not rack and pinion though. I'll take a look and see what I can find. Also, looking for a decent place to do an alignment here. Nissan can't, and I'm shopping for camber bolts locally, so I might do that before taking it in.

Just wondering if I'm overlooking something here... After some wheeling the other day, my steering wheel is off center by about 10 degrees. I'm wondering if it just hopped a spine or if something else has happened. The vehicle drives perfectly straight on the highway, and doesn't pull to either side, the wheel is just not straight. Other than this, the dirvers CV axle is grinding on near-full lock left turns. I was expecting to be replacing the cv axle eventually as it sometimes would grind while backing out of a parking stall, though not nearly like it does now. I was planning on pulling the steering wheel off and re centering it, but it looks like a big job. Any other ways to do this? Is the cv axle cooincidental?

"I am", becasue of it. Maybe it's my poor style, but I'm a fan of the rock forwards and backwards to get unstuck (always driven stick until this vehicle), and generally I free myself. Infact, in my Kenworth this has got to be the best tactic to get moving in squishy mud. The ABS won't let you stop your tire spin in enough time to shift from D to R. So I find myself quite often shifting from D to R or R to D with a wheel or two spinning and it's very hard on the transmission. Especially in low range. Now, if ABS wasn't on, I could rock to my hearts content without hurting anything, but it takes a moment to stop tire spin, which defeats the entire purpose since I've already slid back into my ruts before getting it back in gear.

I run 5w30 Mobil 1 in summer at 40C and winter at -40C. Oil consumption? My dipstick is always the same from one oil change to the next. 114K on that last engine. ~70K on this one. (Kms)

It's an OK bumper. Pretty heavy, but durable. My Champion 9.5 fit in with about an inch of clearance between it and the rad. Had to remove the rad support beam. Other than the winch, lights, lift, engine swap and bumper there isn't really anything I've done to it... Still want a ~1.5"+ subframe drop and 32-33" tires. I get stuck everywhere I go with this thing and wishI had bought something else. Powersteering pump is dying now. I'm hating the ABS offroad. Is there a way to turn it off? I'm destroying my transmission becuase of it.

OME installed, HD front, medium rear, comfort shocks and OME struts. A couple of pics from today. I needed to use the winch to get out of that rut. Will take pics of the tire/strut clearance and yellow stuff when it's clean. Forum wont let me upload images....

I called RR back around when I made that last post. They sent out the correct ones on their dollar. Yesterday my shocks arrived in proper packaging, unlike the last set. I installed the shocks this afternoon, and decided to do the struts too. The whole process took me about 4 hours... Camber is way out, I'll need to figure out how to fix that. Sending RR the original shocks tomorrow. Might put the shipping cost towards some sliders. Also should mention my strut insulators and brackets were fine so I re-used them. Will be returning that stuff to Nissan on Tuesday. All I replaced was the strut nut and bearing. Pics later on.. I'll need to wash it first

couldn't you just cut a piece of 5/16" wood or something and lay it on the plenum, see if the hood closes? I don't know howd you measure this otherwise.

If I rememeber during winter, I'll try to do a comparison. We get about an 80C change in temp between summer and winter here..

I'm no expert but I'd except if an engine is retarding its timing to prevent knocks and pings, there will a drop in performance AND economy. I don't have the pathfinder today but I think the correction is about 5.4% for me. I generally use the same pump to fuel up, but I've noticed that other pumps give different results. Not sure if its pump calibration or the slope of the pad I'm parked on... Probably a mix of both or more.

The error % between what the scanguage says you burnt vs what you put back into the tank. K-factor, tank error, whatever you want to call it.

I keep tabs on my economy with my scanguage. Adjusted for tank error and tire size. 02' Chilkoot Editon 3.5 Auto 91 City/Highway: 17.1-18.3 mpg 91 Highway only: 18.8-21.4 mpg under 120Km/h 91 Highway only: under 17 mpg over 130Km/h Engine has ~71,000Km on it, drive-train 121,000Km. My last engine ran on 89 all the time and got roughly the same mileage, though I noticed on occasion the spark was retarding slightly, maybe 2-4 degrees. A friend of mine had a 98 3.3L which he ran only 87 in. The first time he pulled a trailer with it the engine started to fall apart after 280Km. Says he traded it in less than an hour later on the 3/4T Cummins Dodge he's been driving since. Maybe related, maybe not.