Orangetang

What sort of camber correction bolts did you end up needing? I don't think the ones I bought are enough for OME alone, and they were damn pricey.

Picked them up on Tuesday evening, and drove to work to install them. After removing the strut and banging out the old studs I noticed there is no way the get longer bolts in there without disassembling the whole thing, OR welding some nuts to the bottom of the mount or something... What did the rest of you do? I put everything back together and drove down to Calgary last night, so I won't be attempting an install for a few days at the earliest. Also seems the strut bearings are sitting weird in there. I'll post pics next time.

Since there doesn't appear to be such thing as a 16x8 with 4 or less inches of back spacing, what do you think about wheel spacers? I'm not talking about the 3/8" ring that you put on before the wheel, but rather the bolt on spacers that generally are 1.25 - 2". Safe? A guy at a local tire shop runs 2" on his old Jeep Grand Wagoneer.

I don't know what you read to come up with that post. I don't currently have any tires that I'm trying to fit on a rim. I recently placed an order for 4 snow tires and wheels (mentioned above) that a tire shop recommended for my vehicle. Other opinions on this site and AC stated that an even larger tire would fit fine on factory rims, which actually have more backspacing, thus less strut clearance than the ones I ordered. Therefore, I felt more than confident enough that these wheels would fit a 265/75R16. I believe xplorx4 and the tire shop are correct in stating these rims will not allow a 265 to clear strut. Perhaps the factory rims that other people have mentioned are different than mine, I don't know. I'll cancel the order for now. It's obvious I need a 4 or 3.75" BS wheel., which I can't find anywhere. If you know of any, please let me know. I'd go to a 15x8, but the same R50 community believes they may not clear the brakes on later model R50s like mine. Is anyone picking up what I'm putting down?

Thanks. I've been trying to get answers on the 4x4parts forum. Some guys insist that 265s fit on factory rims, but I don't see it being possible. My small 30" tire is pretty much touching the strut on the factory rim with a 5.5"BS. So, without going to a 15" wheel, do you know of ANY wheels that have a 4 or 3.75" backspacing? Thanks again on the reply. This would have been a $900 dollar set of winter tire rims if you hadn't said anything.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'd hate to get burned on a $1500 purchase. I chickened out and ordered a set of smaller 245/75R16 snow tires on 16x8 ATX Chambers, 4.5"BS (0 offset) 6x139mm. I received a waiver fax that I need to sign and fax back before they ship. Basically, they won't take a return on them if they don't fit. Sounds like they have their doubts, though a shop in town recommended these wheels... Is there any doubt in anyones mind that these wheels and tires wont fit? I want to run 265/75R16s MTs on these wheels in the summer. Thanks.

Neither A or B. Spraying the seals around the window frame would just make a mess on the glass, and then your shirt sleeve. Put the window down and insert the aerosol straw into both corners, spray downwards.

Right on. I've only got about 3/4" of clearance between the solenoid box on the winch and the AC Condenser. I've knocked down a few good sized dead trees with the ARB and it hasn't moved back enough to touch the condenser. Your setup is probably just as rigid by the looks of it.

If I recall correctly, the heater is in the middle or rear of the engine on the drivers side, half way up, right below the heatshield. I pulled the cord out when I put my engine in, and should probably go hook it up. It's -13C tonight, and starting to get cold. Feel around for the prongs (like the back of a philishave razor) if the cord is missing.

Cool. Did you remove the brace that holds up the hood latch? I had to modify mine to fit around the winch I installed.

Bought some generic silicone lubricant (motomaster brand) for $3.99. Windows go up AND down way faster already. Thanks for the tip! I did each window.

Cool. I'll let you know how it goes

I second that....

Mine has the same problem. I figured it wasn't the motor, since all the windows do it, and last year at -40 the window would come up about 6 inches, slow down and go back down. Even if I pulled on it, it would trigger the anti-pinch and go back in. I was pissed... Try driving 100km/h for 10Km at -40.... I pulled it inside and let it warm up... Silicone spray eh? I'm on my way to buy some! What about dry graphite?

Would chains clear the front struts and fenders? I think not, if they're remotely close to the same design I run on the Kenworth. Just imagine running a tire 2-3" wider than what you have now and having it clear everything up front. Without aftermarket rims with lower backspacing, I doubt they'd even clear very well on the rear. That is my 2cents, but I havn't ever seen car chains.

I put 255/70R16 (30") AT tires on my factory suspension, no rubbing. I want to buy some 265/70R16 (31-32") X-Ice tires today, but I'm worried they won't fit. I've read that you need a 3.75-4.00 backspacing to make them fit, but I don't think that would work. The stock rims look to be about 5.25 backspacing, and I have over an inch of tire under my strut with about a 1/2" vertical clearance. 3.75BS may clear, but it'll be very close, especially since I'm going from a 255 to 265.... If anyone can give advice on this I'd appreciate it. Sale ends today, and I'm only buying the tires from the place, since they don't carry wheels I want. I know xplorx4 and others claim a 265/75R16 will fit with a 2" lift and 3.75 OR 4.00 BS. I think my OME struts might have more overhang than the factory ones. Can anyone attest to this?

Very nice! I can't wait to get this thing sitting level.

My guess would be Nissan's N-VCT, VVL/VVT or whatever our VQs have. Either the cam rotation, timing, or valve duration is shifting, similar to V-Tec in a Honda??I have noticed the 4500rpm note change since the first time I drove mine. Always assumed it was some sort of fuel economy/power related Nissan V-Tec.

Grande Prairie, AB at the moment. West and a little North of Edmonton and right next door to Dawson Creek, BC.

Yeah, it's warming up again, but we were below 0C for a few days. We even got a little snow in September. Not long until the average day is -20C or (-4F I think), and the block heater is running every night. I start to get grumpy when it's below -30C.

Or I could take the same discount as Fueler Whatever works for you guys. I might be in Edson, AB for a few days unless the snow keeps falling or it turns to rain. I'll try to check my messages at whatever hotel I'm at.

I'll take the deal to if it applies to Canada shipping.

Mine has recently broken off at that same spot, dangling from the hangars. I just removed it and it's been riding in the back since... I'd rather not spend anything to get it fixed, would the exhaust exiting under the vehicle promote rust/corrosion?

If you read the bottle and it says GL-5, it's already safe, and no need for additive.

For future reference, GL-5 is POSI/LSD safe and MT-1 is industrial HD grade. The oil is fine, I need change nothing, and I'll try the lifted wheel trick sometime soon.