Orangetang

Winter Config: (Stock Rims) Year: 2002 Chilkoot Edition Lift: ~2" OME Lift, HD springs and 1" front aluminum spacers. Tires: 245/75R16 Firestone Winterforce UV Wheels: Factory 16" Nissan Alloys Notes: Absolute max tire size without going to a 4" BS rim. ~1/8" clearance between top of inside of tire and strut spring seat. Summer Config: Year: 2002 Chilkoot Edition Lift: ~2" OME Lift, HD springs and 1" front aluminum spacers. Tires: 265/75R16 Hercules Trail Digger MT Wheels: Pro Comp 16x8 4"BS Alloy Notes: Needed to remove front mud flaps because of rubbing. Largest tire possible without fender trimming.

That is a very sexy Pathfinder. I have never seen a red one before, it must be rare. I wish I had the two tone fender flares, or any fender flares for that matter. For my ARB, I used clear silicone to glue in the light bezels, and cheap, but ultra bright GE Q4509 bulbs and rubber housings for the recesses. They're only about $20 per bulb and $8 per housing, and I think they fit very well. You be the judge.

With the 3.3L, I'm pretty sure that's all you'll get. Especially with a full load and a roof rack. My 3.5L doesn't do much better than 16mpg when I have it loaded up.

Nice!

DIDO!

I'm running 265/75R16s and they rubbed the mudflaps badly, even with front spacers and OME Lift. I'll second, that the 33s will NOT clear your fenders without a fair bit of trimming.

I'm also pretty certain that your suspension is stock. Here is a picture I took today, (not the best camera_phone) next to another Pathfinder. You can kinda see the a-arm angles are quite different, yours are more like the one on the right.

I'm not sure if things are different for a 17" than with my 16" factory wheels, but a 32" tire probably will not fit under your lower spring seat on the front struts. I ran a 247/75R16 on factory rims and it rubbed on the spring seat, which wore the tire down. I ended up buying some rims with a 4" backspacing which brings the wheel farther out, so the tire rides up beside the spring instead of underneath it, thus allow larger diameter tires. Even doing this didn't solve all the problems. My front mudflaps needed to be removed to prevent them from rubbing and being torn off. I should mention I have the ~2" OME lift, with a 1" spacer up front, so I probably have slightly more lift than you, and I still needed to pull the mudflaps off. I'm running a 265/75R16 mud tire, which should be 0.5" more in diameter, (1/4" closer to the mudflap) than the tires you're thinking about, so in that respect, you might make it. My main conern would be the strut to tire clearance. That tire should fit your wheels though. I think a 255 is happy on anything from around 6.5-8" wide.

That is pretty much what happened to me. The difference was probably how far we had the throttle open and how the plastic fender liners were shaped. With the resonator removed on my 3.5L, there is a hole in the bottom of the airbox that goes through the fender. The plastic fender lining is flush or a little bit below the front bottom of the ARB bumper, and the water hit it like a ramp that led directly into the airbox. When I dropped the oil pan there was a flood of oil and water, and all the cylinders were partially full. I wouldn't be suprised if the engine pulled in more than its 3.5L displacement.

Thank you. All I need now is some rear recovery tow points and fender flares. For those considering running a wheel with this little backspacing, there are some draw backs... 1) You're probably running this backspacing to run larger than 31" tires, that said, mudflaps need to come off, and plastic needs to be trimmed. 2) Without a fender flare, your tires extend past the fenders, throwing stones and mud up the side of your vehicle and at other motorists. This might be a concern for those not driving gravel roads, but I just spent 2 hours cleaning mud and sand out of the window tracks in my front doors. Not Cool! Mud in tracks/weather stripping = scratched windows. 3) Very limited selection of wheels in that configuration. Members here say that a 4.25" BS, which is very common, won't work, but I can't see it.

Very lucky. I had my resonator tube off when I hydro-locked my VQ35. It was just a puddle about 5 feet long and a foot deep that did it. Engine was destroyed. Number 3 piston arm was bent and against the crankshaft counter-weight. Number 3 oil director was snapped off, and number 4 piston arm was slightly bent. Don't mess with the resonator tube, and if you do, remove it completely and plug the hole where it previously entered the fender well. I ended up bolting a piece of pail lid plastic to the top of the fender, and hole-sawing the front of the airbox open behind the headlight... So unless that water is above the center of the headlight, I'm probably ok. Since I havn't really deviated from topic, is there a recommended raised air intake available? Ebay only usually has the Weapon-R, cold air, short ram air, and secret weapon intakes and the K&N CAI.

The following are Flickr linked images... Not sure if they work for anyone or not. Fender flares are needed with a 4" Backspacing if don't have factory flares. 265/75R16 looks big, but not silly big. Keep in mind I have 1" spacers up front. Notice the front mud flaps were removed... I couldn't turn more than one wheel rotation without catching them. I hope something else will fit. I'm not cool with no mud flaps.

I generally use a Hastings brand filter, but lately have used a NAPA Gold, and FRAM. Whatever I'm near when I'm buying oil. Hint: If you use google all the time, (it's my homepage), just type "74000 km to miles" and it will calculate it. I use this all the time... For instance "1134mm to feet" will give you "1 134 millimeters = 3.72047244 feet" Google rules.

I only use Mobil 1 and it seems to be pretty clean when I do my changes... Generally every 6000-8000Km. I found myself adding about a 1/2L after around 5000Km on my last VQ, but this one doesn't burn any, and I'm bouncing it off the rev limiter fairly frequently. Oil is at 6,540Km right now, golden, and on the dipstick in the same spot as when I changed it (full line). This engine has around 80,000Km on it, the last one had 72,000 before I blew it up.

Absolutely

I have a set of ProComp #1079 in 16x8/4BS in the mail, and I'll be trying to run some 265/75R16 mud tires with my OME lift and 1" front spacers. A lot of the front plastic has alreay been trimmed, since I have the ARB Sahara. Will let you know if I run into any problems, though it may be a week or two until the rims get here... I think they are coming straight from ProComp in the US. I really want some aftermarket fender flares.

I have the HD springs front and medium rear. With the 1" spacer installed it sits fairly level. With the HD springs alone, the front sat about an inch lower, though I do have a winch, heavy bumper and 4WD. Ride is fine.

My company only buys Dodge and Kenworth, so we have a crap load of 06-08 1500-3500 pickups and a couple Sprinters, of which the only ones to go wrong are the new 6.7L trucks. No issues with the Hemis other than fuel consumption. Hope it works out well for you, truly a sharp looking truck. If you're not worried about warranty, there are some good chip tuners out there to improve economy. I drove an 06 1500 Hemi, on the highway for a little over 700Km at 120Kmh and averaged 14.1mpg, and 11.7mpg in the city. Our 2500 diesels are getting around 20mpg on the highway with 700Kg in the back, for comparison.

Installed them a couple of nights ago and stripped the strut tower bolt that holds the spring on..almost new struts too... i had no choice but to tap it to a 1/2" course thread and leave one spring compressor on during the install... with the eight of the vehicle on the springs, i removed the compressor and tightened down the nut... CVs are behaving the same, no excess noise than before. Sits damn level now, but what a hassle. I thought the bolt on the engine side would be hard to get done up, but a regular 9/16 wrench fit on it without any problems.

I didn't buy the expensive IPF lights when I bought my ARB, instead I ended up buying some GE 4509 aircraft landing/taxi bulbs, and rubber housings for under $40 bucks. I've had them for about a year, even though the bulb life is only rated for 25 Hours. They just recently burnt out, either naturally, or becuase I had the toggle on by accident while it was idling for an hour or so. I'm curious what else you all have fitted in there. Before this I had a cheap set of offroad lights from Princess Auto, which shattered the first time they were splashed with water, while on... I just finished putting in an order for the newer GE Q4509 bulbs, rated at 30,000 more candlepower, cooler lens surface, and same wattage/draw. They're substaintially more money, $25 instead of $10, but the life is rated at 100 hours, which alone is worth the cost, I think. In case these don't work out for me, please post whatever you're using. Also, if you're at all intrigued by these GE bulbs, they are incredibly bright but not very durable. I couldn't even tell if I turned off the headlights, highbeams, or Hella 500s.

I put my new amp in there.. Kind of a messy looking install, but it is doing the trick.

Now that I have clear and loud mids and tweets, I really feel the lack good bass. Currently running some older 10" xplodes, on a 600W amp. Though I would love to lose the box, I think I'll go with a single 15" or a 12" pair on a PDX1.000, if I do anything. I can't believe how much sound is coming from the components, and at the same time, the coaxs are completely terrible (worse than the bose were IMO).

No way I'm going to read ALL of this thread right now, but I thought I'd pass on my results from my recent install... Alpine Type R 6.5 Components 110RMS Alpine Type R 6.5 Coaxials 100RMS Alpine PDX 4CH x 100W Amp Bottom line is, even the Type R Coax speakers are junk. They have no low range, as you've mentioned, and the sound they do produce is somewhat flat and boring. On the other hand, the components sound pretty good and have some nice thump to them. I would absolutely ditch the coax you bought and invest in some mid-high end 6.5 components. I'm satisfied with the sound in the front, though I wish I went with something like a Type X or another brand. The sound in the back sucks... These particular components dont begin to make much bass until you begin to crank them, and at that point the tweeters are a little too powerfull, but the crossovers have a jumper for you to tune down the tweeters, which works well. Considering I used the factory BOSE enclosure that was in there, I'm impressed with the amount of bass they actually produce. Components are a must. I also want to lose the subs in the back. I hate them being there. I'm trying to figure out a lower realestate 8" setup.

Reads the sticky threads about lifting R50s. All the info and oppinions are there. I for one don't enjoy my OME lift, so you might wanna try AC, which is cheaper anyway.

My daytime running light module died about two weeks after I bought the Pathfinder, and it cost me about $600. On the topic of lighting... I had an Autostart installed today and my headlights will not turn off once the engine is off, unless I use the factory door remote, or turn the switch off. Also, my interior lights are coming on while going down the road occasionally, but no open-door indicator shows up... They wrecked my car.