Orangetang

I havn't had a chance to install my OME lift yet. What came in the box was shocks, springs, struts and some hardware. What do I need to buy before I pull my old struts and put these in? Bearings, mounts, cups, bolts etc.

I have been living in Grande Prairie, AB for the last year and a half which is fairly dry, however I'm from Prince Rupert, BC where it rains 239.7 days of the year.

Thanks everyone for the help. The engine started up on the first try yesterday and the only thing I broke on the install was the AC pulley, which has been ordered. I re-used the exhaust gaskets and they aren't making any noise yet, so I hope they're good to go. For coolant gaskets, I used "Right Stuff" by permatex. Now to put the heavy front diff/axle in which I'm waiting on help with, return the winch I destroyed and install my OME lift which is still in the box. Thanks again.

I'd also assume a blown head gasket.

I was also thinking that is what it was, but it doesn't appear to have been pulled out of any connectors... It doesn't exactly reach any.... I'll have to investigate further. On my way to buy belts, gaskets etc... Just looking up some torque specs and i'll hopefully have it in by the end of the day.

Thanks! I decided to give it a try, and after realising I was only mostly hung-up on the transmission dipstick bracket, the tranni and engine seperated and lifted out very easily. We're now transferring some pieces between the engines such as lines and brackets that were not included, or damaged on the one from the wrecker, etc. I'll probably use the sensors, injectors and stuff but keep the old stuff for spares or troubleshooting. A mystery wire on the alternator has shown up...I hope someone can identify it. I can't figure out where it goes, if it even does... With the engine on a stand, it was easy to tear apart the bottom end and see what was going on. Two piston rods are bent, one not as bad as the other, and the worst having a small notch taken out of it by the crank counterweight. Also, the oil director in that cylinder is broken off. Totally rebuildable I figure, but I'll just cash in for the core I think. Pics... The alternator wire is in the picture. It comes out of the harness that connects to the alternator, and is about a 20guage or so tiny ted wire. I wonder if it was ever connected to anything at all... Or one of the screws on the alternator... Any help would be great. A poor photo I realise, but it's a camera phone and dark...

Would it just slide out on the spline? I'm guessing the TC is fairly thick, it must be tight for room to have the engine slide forward enough for the TC to make it out of the bell housing. How'd it go for you? I referenced service manual AT-286 which shows it more or less just coming straight off. I'll want to drain it first?

All tranni bolts, out, front axle removed, engine mount bolts removed and ready to lift, and I noticed through the starter housing that there are bolts in the flex plate that need to be removed. That would be fine and dandy except the engine is siezed. So I decided to remove the oil pan, and whatever is seized, be it a piston or whatever, or just the crankshaft all together. Oil pan wont come out. It gets hung up on the stiffiner, which is bolted in retardly tightly with torx bolts. I'm kind of stuck now. I tried to smash the oilpan apart with a pipe and sledge but its actually quite sturdy. This is a total piss-off project. What should I try next? I'm thinking if I drain the transmission and remove the cooling lines the pan might come out over the steering.

My OME lift cleared customs a couple of days ago... Can't wait to install it. Though, it'll need to wait until my new engine is in. Probably Monday at the latest.

I was hoping to get online sometime during the day to check this thread... Anyway, I ended up figuring out the use of a swivel and 4 extensions to be perfect for removing the top passenger side tranny bolt, but the other one is impossible to get to from underneath. I bent and welded a weird shaped 11/16th wrench to go in from the top, which worked until it broke. Other than that, I dropped the front diff, and removed every bolt I think I need to except the one drivers side top tranny bolt which I hope to get out on Thursday. As for pulling the diff completely, that isn't a bad idea. Maybe I will for the install half of this. As for removing the front end stuff... I was hoping to get that rad support and AC system completely out of the way, which I only realised to be more work than necessary... Pulling the engine out through the rad would have been nicer than lifting it out, but oh well... Time will tell. Thanks everyone for your advice. I hope that bolt doesn't cause too much trouble. I'm dreading the time when I need to put them back in....... -edit- I removed the exhaust at the cats aswell. All six nuts came off without any trouble at all. So far I've only broken a stud and a bolt. Neither of which are needed for the re-assembly.

I don't have any time to post pics at the moment, but I will later on. Basically I started this swap blind, and was hoping to pull most of the front of the pathfinder off and just slide the engine out through the grill. However, most of you probably already know that the rad support is spot welded into place, aswell as the AC condensor has a steel line on the lower drivers side which I can't move.... So basically, I've pulled the bumper, headlights, grill, radiator, plenum/intake, wiring harness, hood, AC pump and all hoses and lines. I can't reach the manifold bolts that are behind the O2 sensors, without removing the heatshields which are equally impossible to remove becuase of limited space and badly corroded bolts. Should I unbolt the manifold directly from the side of the engine instead? Secondly and thirdly, the top tranny bolts are near impossible to get to. I removed the intake/plenum hoping it would free up some room, but no. This makes me think that I'll need to drop the front diff, and slide the transmission forward just to undo it, then lift the motor out and drop the new one in. Any advice would be great I'm a little confused of how this is supposed to go down... er out. No haynes or chilton yet, right?

Just so you all know I havn't ditched the truck yet... I loaded it up on a U-Haul and towed it to a friends property out of town. He's the guy I usually forward all issues with my Kenworth to, and he seemed to be greatfull to save me the install by lending some room at his place. So tomorrow if I find time I'm going to pull out the radiator and supports, exhaust manifolds, AC system and stuff like that before he gets involved in dropping the front diff and pulling the engine out. I've decided to at the very least pull the heads to see what sort of damage there is before ordering up a wrecker engine. nissan complete is $12699.They don't sell the long block.

I'm going to see if insurance would give me anything for it, what I owe on it, and what a wrecker would give me for it.

Today I was quoted $6000-6500 today for my little adventure. $2500 seems fairly steep for dropping in an engine... Is this something some friends and I could do over a week or so in a garage with a hoist and tools? I have access to all the tools I could ever need. Snooping around, engines have been 1500-2500, he says he found one with 40K on it for ~$3500 plus freight. $=CAD dollars.... He says he pulled the plugs and tried to roll it over, they couldn't get it to turn at all... Seized.

On the bright side, my tax refund came in last week and tonight is payday so I'm fine to buy a new engine... Though I would have rather invested in PRADO and new wheels. Cashed in some days-owed too, so I'm officially on paid vacation for the next couple of weeks. I can ride my bike anywhere I NEED to go without trouble.

It would turn just a tiny bit then lock up immediately. Electrical system seems fine. But tis out of my hands now... rusting away overnight at the auto shop. Towed it on the rear wheels in neutral for 29Km at $2.50 a Km plus $75 to hook up. Not bad considering the $106/Hr shop rate here in town. This is not goign to be cheap

missed your post. my internet is brutal today... i'll stick with an R50 engine.

I didn't really consider over-revving it until now, but that is possible. I was in 4L afterall. There was no noise or bad smells. Basically I drove in and out, but it stalled on the way out. I tried to restart it and it wouldn't turn over. Popped the hood and the airfilter was soaked completely through and the airbox was full of water. Nuff said I guess... Maybe it also blew a headgasketa nd blew rods haha. I wouldn't be suprised.] How about a diesel or 350z swap?

First day of offroad fun in my Pathfinder, and I destroy it. Well, the shop will let me know how bad it is tomorrow, but I'm fairly confident I'm about to buy a used engine. I must stress how much fun I was having before this happened though. The inclines these things can climb is unreal! Not to mention the manueverability around and between trees and stumps in the woods. Maybe I should be more upset about this, but I figure it's a good lesson learned. I'll post some pics, and I bet all of you will wonder HOW THE HELL I managed to hydrolock an engine in such little water. On the brightside, the winch works fantastic, even with the engine off. This is a long shot, but can I drop the diesel out of the Patrol into this pathy? What about the 3.5 G35 or 350z engine? Should I stick with a stock 3.5?

I ordered the OME lift today. HD/Medium with OME struts and shocks. Decided to do some wheeling after work and was having a blast crawling around through the woods until i hit a tiny mud hole. Me thinks a new engine is in order.... I'll start a new thread elsewhere.

Alright, hopefully someone can solve all of my confusion and stress over this lifting ordeal. I know I NEED to get stiffer, front and rear lift springs. I can't decide between OME or AC. I'd prefer the ACs because of price and extra lift, however if I'm doing a pradolift aswell, then the difference is negligable. Basically, my goal is to fit some 32x10.5 tires under this thing without cutting any fenders and whatnot. I have the chilkoot so I don't even have fender flares. I'm thinking that 3.5-4.5" lift is more than enough for me. My concerns are... The CV angle destruction, and if a prado can bring the cvs back to a factory angle. Also, I've heard you can fit the strut mount spacer (used to level a spring lift) UNDER the top of the strut, directly ontop of the spring, which reduces the CV angle while still giving the same lift.... Rancho or GR-2 struts, and why? I have a lot of clunks and rattles in my front and rear suspension. I'm basically planning on replacing the struts, shocks, and any bushings I can. Finally, removing the front sway bar.... how are the road manners with it out? And how safe is this lift to continue touse as a daily driver with 32" and 3.5"-4.5" increase? I live in the heart of Albertas muddy oilpatch and do more logging road driving than concrete, however I do the occasional 1500km commute down the highway, so it needs to be able to do both. Also, I'm hoping to start doing some more-serious offroading in BC/AB this summer, not to mention the winter here, and the @!*% I regularily get myself into. Please throw some advice.

Fine don't reply! Only becuase I know I can return it in 3 years if it breaks, no questions asked, I bought the COSTCO Champion 9,500lb winch today. $399CAD... Install was a BITCH, but it fits the ARB, sans the bracket that holds the hood latch in place, which I just tilted diagonally, added a rubber bushing to the end of it and bolted it in TIGHT. Hood functions fine, and winch works well, but slow as all hell... I imagine more than one person has wondered about the fitment of this style winch, and yes it fits, with 1" to spare between it and the AC condensor. Fairlead fits perfectly. No additional holes needed to be drilled. Used supplied nuts and bolts.

Damn that looks good. Are the signals on a pigtail connector that plugs directly into your harness (cutting free?). Now that I know this would have fit my 02', I'm a little sad I bought the ARB... Though the ARB is a fantastic bumper itself. How much does it weigh?

People don't really steal @!*% around here. I doubt loctite would help, but our unemployment rate is only 3% or so, which does help. I hope

Hellas showed up... A pic from my phone, after our sea/ski-doo rescue this morning. It's pissing rain out now, but I'll try to give my 2cents on their brightness when its clear out again. I predict they'll illuminate a little more of the shoulderof the road, but otherwise nothing extra when the A/C lights are on. I'll be aiming them to the ditches for deer-spotting i guess.