zonianbrat

X2 what happened to the X Alex?

X2 thanks for the good info and keep it coming!!

Well I have determined that I will just stay with Mobil 1 and a good filter for the oil and I am going to put in a bottle of the lucas tranny stuff to get me by until I switch to full synthetic transmission fluid.

Yes it is for a Autotragic.

I have also been hearing good things about Mobil 1. The engine is in good shape so I will just stick with Only using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter. On a seperate note what do you guys think of Lucas transmission additive? Currently the tranny has standard Tranny oil in it but I will be switching that over to a synthetic too. Till I get around to doing that is it a good idea to run Lucas tranny additive? I am just full of questions today!!

Excellent point. I do try take care of my engine by doing regular oil changes. I also try not to abuse it. Until I did some research this morning on these additives I was kinda in the dark. I do realize now that you are correct, there is no point in me adding anything if I am already using Mobil 1 since they have their own additives already in the oil. From this article (link at bottom of post) it seems that additives could disrupt the balance that my Mobil 1 additives achieve therefore actually making the metal to metal contact worse. Although in both articles I have posted I have not seen anything involving Lucas. I also do not know who lucas is made by. I got more research to do!! http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/snakeoil.htm

Thanks Simon, I am trying to do a bit of research and I stumbled on this. Still no definitive answer at all but a somewhat interesting read none the less. The page gives mixed signals about additives but I want to see more real world results and opinions. Seems like most of them are nothing but "Snake Oil". http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html

First off it's not for a nissan. It's for my new to me Explorer. (I know, I know). I've switched it over to Mobil 1 full synthetic. I need this truck to last me as long as possible or until I give it to the wife and buy another Pathfinder! My father still swears by Slick-50 but I have heard mixed opinions on it. I have also been told that Lucas is the best out there. Money is not a problem as I am going to be switching all the fluids to Synthetic and trying to do everything to make this truck last me. Thanks in advance. BTW it has a 4.0 ltr SOHC V-6.

I had Farmers has been awesome for me. I just got into a wreck where I totalled the pathy and filing the claim it was quick and painless. I'm paying about 500 bucks/6 months for full coverage on my ford and my wifes Honda. But they are both older so that is why. Still great insurance company to deal with in my opinion and they send us gift certificates for dinner on both my wifes and my birthdays!

You'll have to go with the AC 2" lift and maybe some strut spacers if you can find any. Otherwise you'll have to do a custom sub-frame drop lift. Dont think there are any kits like that actually available but there are a couple of people on the forum that have done it. Good luck.

I saw a new pathfinder Armada that was done up like a cow but it was for Chick-fil-a. It had the big sign on the back that said eat more chicken. Speaking of chicken I'm hungry

/\ X2 Your also going to want to go ahead and replace the thermostat, possibly cam and crank seals (if leaking), timing belt tensioner and that little coolant bypass hose. The coolant bypass hose could be causing you to lose fluid also. All the parts I listed above are pretty cheap and worth doing now since you will have the front of the motor apart. I changed my t-belt, tensioner, water pump, t-stat, coolant bypass hose, all 3 drive belts, spark plugs, spark plug wires and did a complete coolant flush and cleaned out the radiator while I had it out. I also did a oil change so as everything was covered. With parts the job took me an afternoon and part of a morning (maybe 8-9 hours i think total and I am no mechanic) at a cost of around 450 bucks. The job can be done for like 250 but I was dumb and tried to use a jaw puller on the crankshaft pulley and I broke the lip on it. That crank pulley/balancer costs about 200 bucks new. Sad part is I Loved my R50 and was so proud I did all that work on it (witha bit of dad's help) and I totalled it 30,000 miles later. Btw. That write up in this forum is an excellent guide to doing the t-belt job. Hardest part is getting the crankshaft pulley/blancer off and it's not that hard just gotta either have a huge breaker bar or do what I did and take a small breaker bar on the 27mm nut and brace it against the frame horns, then "bump" the starter.

I would def. try to do some kind of repair to that ebrake. I dont really know what kind of pressures are applied to the clutch or tranny if it is on a slope with only the clutch/tranny holding it there. In my camaro (6 speed) I would park it in reverse if it was a downward slope and 1st everywhere else. I was in such a habit of using the ebrake that I dont even know what it is like if you do not use it.

Yeah go for it!

I personally like the clean white look. I understand after having a white vehicle for so long change seems apealing. I used to keep my Camaro clean white and black. Shaved off all SS embloms etc. Once at an Auburn (war eagle!) football game somebody stuck 2 auburn magnets on my car. One in the middle of the hood and one on the door. I removed the one from the door but saw the one on the hood as different so I rocked it for like 3 months. Do what you like Dean.

Thirded....lol

I suggest you replace the t-stat and the coolant bypass hose while your in there. Both are cheap and would save one heck of a headache if 200 miles down the road the hose or t-stat goes out.

I hope I dont get flamed or banned for this!! Would it be possible to do a mod like this: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showth...own+wire+thread It basically electrically tricks the computer and gives you true 2 wd. I'm debating on doing this my my Explorer since I have a similar Auto 4x4 feature. Seems alot like the Auto 4x4 on nissans but I am sure things in there are different. Thought I would throw it out there.

Yup sounds like you got a lemon buddy. It happens, my 95 Camaro SS was a lemon of sorts. I replaced almost everything once Engine, Tranny, Rear end, Alternator, Clutch...the list goes on. About the only thing that I never had to replace was the AC and steering! The car was worth it to me though. And no I did not have to replace all these things because I drove it hard. I babied it and it still fell apart. It was a great vehicle once I replaced everything!!! Anyway you got the first year of the 3.5 VQ hell you might have one of the first made! I am sad that you have that opinion about Nissan vehicles. Hey everybody's got their own opinions! Nice choice btw on the Tacoma TRD! I was thinking real hard about getting one of those when I bought my Ford.

Did it indeed have 60ort 70 thousand miles? If so that is pretty darn low for a truck that is 13 years old. I had a buddy with a 95 (I think) yota and while it was a dog on acceleration. It wheeled very well. I'd do it for 500 bucks and some work on the side. But that's just my opinion. Heck for 500 you could drive it for awhile then get another pathy or fix yours. Dam too bad your so far away I'd take it off his hands.

That is quite possibly the ugliest truck I have ever seen.

X2 with what Simon is saying. I had a cone filter on my pathfinder. It was nice but I then got this job where I was traveling off-road alot to oil rig sites. Most oil rig sites are extremely dusty or "caliche" roads as they call them down in Texas. So I found myself cleaning my K&N at the end of every well or every couple of weeks. I let it go one time because I hears somewhere that the dirtier it gets the better it keeps dirt out. Well when I took it off to clean it there was dust in the housing that the MAF sits in. BAd idea.

I remember. His screenname was KILLVOX. It's a nice looking rig with the exception of the lime green.

If your have an R50 then I dont think you have a turn signal light in the corner light. It is just one bulb that goes on when you turn the headlight switch to teh first on position before the headlight position. The corner light should have a lip on top with a hole to mount the light from teh top. Then there is a "post" coming out of it that goes into a plastic gromet dealy to secure the bottom. I used a dowel when I flopped my truck. I do not know what dash light your talking about either. please explain

If you have tinted windows, never clean the insides of them with anything with amonia like windex or it will turn your tint purple. Nice writeup Pickles. Makes me wish I was at home so I could wash my ride and get a good coat of wax on it. Instead it is coated in a nice lite Tan caliche or calichi how ever you spell it.