Casey.T

Cheeze Whiz = any boy trying to date your daughter, until deemed necessary to actually know there name. Even then they are still referred to as Cheese Whiz....

Julie... you had your motor out didnt you... And you replaced/fixed the broken stud or 2? Re torque time or you have something else thats tapping...

Nice pics... I would have hit that hole as well... clean the mud off, fix it and head back out to beat that little mud pit.... I hit something similar in the 95... did not make it... went back later that evening in the 91 just to beat it...

Slick needs to ask him if the t-stat was installed with the bubbler in the 12:00 o'clock position...

Or you can do like I did, not take the advise and end up having belt failure.... JDM Swap came to about $1500 total and I did all the work myself....

Contest the citation.... something about "Demand for Discovery" "Burden of Proof" and "Due Process" Call around to some of your local attorneys... there fee is going to be cheaper in the long run...

go over to VGPower and ask Zdaddy if hes got any laying around Texas....

Make sure you also properly torque the cam sprocket bolts.... along with the crank bolt....

Well on my 88, i always knew it was time to change the oil when I started hearing the lifter knock... it would suck about 1/2 quart of oil over 2800 to 3000 miles... never dripped a drop... I would still check out the fan ect.... but thats just me and lessons learned the hard way...

Pull the fan shroud... run it Take the fan itself off.... run it(I had a clutch fan bearing go, made it wobble just the slightest) then one belt at a time.... Almost sounds like a timing cover screw hitting the Harmonic balancer.... Then again im told im deaf half the time... oh wait thats from my wife...

Just the "Hi/Low square lug broke off??? if so, pulling the tube will not get you access to it... Pulling the tube if like 4" broke off would work... but if its just the lug at the end... its what 1.5 inches long?? The Enginerd with the magnet will get you a better shot at finding it.... short of dropping the pan... again...

*Kicks jj in the knee.... now you know how mine feels... is the 90 and newer a different part # for the pump????

call me 830 am tomorrow, ill pop the hood and tell you exactly where they go... little cold and dark at the moment...

its pretty easy to pull the tube... All you have to do is get a monkey/pipe wrench on the base and twist a little... and the 1 retaining bolt...

The 2wd pump will fit the block and accessories... it wont fit the timing cover... you would have to use a 2wd timing cover(Max vg30e) My 91 is running a 2wd pump and the timing covers that came with the motor... my oil pump did not have the bolt hole for the bottom timing cover bolt....

$50 says its the timing belt... pop the dizzy cap, turn it over... if the rotor turns your lucky, if it does not... new motor time...

Ignore Get a timing light on it. and rotate the distributor see how close you can get it... I had mine set exactly like Aarons manual shots and it ran like crap... rotated the dizzy one way and it died... the other and it ran a little better... Thats going to tell you which way you have rotate the dizzy when you lift up the assembly and re-set it back in the hole... be careful when lifting it up, it will rotate as you lift it... Use a Sharpe to draw a line on the out side of the cap on the #1 position down on to the base of the distributor, pull the cap and then draw that line inside the base.... VV copied from K9's post check TDC by pulling out plug 1 and putting a long screwdriver down the hole. disconnect the coil and hand crank the engine until the piston is at the top. Check the distributer. It will either be at post 1 or 180 degrees off. If its pointing at #3/#4 crank it around so it pointing at the line you drew... lift it up slowly and move it 1 click(easier to explain verbally in my current condition) All these years and never did drugs...

it will run with out the canister vac line... like sh!t, but it will run... Turns over... you get spark... did you cross the fuel lines? Ask Slick.. its easy... Confirm that, then we can play with the timing... BTW Im not working tomorrow so I can chat with you on the phone... just wont be able to run out and look at stuff.

pull that fuse and try it... its something simple and stupid at the same time.... has to be, its a Pathy...

Hey I dropped my Starter... it split into 2 pieces..... Try explaining that to the parts guy... They are kinda fickle... The shielding on the wires is pretty tough... if its not the relay, its a loose connection some where... and we all love those... When your done, you will get a real warm fuzzy feeling... its all worth it...

hehe, its not the starter.... well it could be... Looks like they are on the right track for the relay... any start problems before the swap??? little grommet is a drain hole...

The one more is the Oil Sending Unit.... Ring to the post connector to connector long one to the oil sending unit... Yep (-) fender then to the block, wire brush the connections(oily fingers)

Call them back tomorrow and ask again...

You can get the starter out np without taking off the oil filter.... 2 14 mm bolts in the back.. turn the solinoid so its in the 12oclock position and slide it forward, then another little twist after you clear the motor mount and it slides right over the center link... Take it to shucks/autozone and have them bench test it... 3x ' I would check your ground wires before pulling it... the black one with the yellow stripe... Auto, try park and neutral, stick: move the floor matt... Most of the connectors on the front will only plug in 1 place...

When I put mine all back together... I used the fly wheel that came with the jdm motor... that was mistake #1 had to repull the motor to swap the fly wheels. #2 was the timing... took a good 2 weeks to figure out the book was not 100% correct on all of the alignment marks... That or I just screwed it up to begin with when i re-set the dizzy... FYI: Slick has alot of pics of her motors in her photobucket...