Casey.T

Align the top 2 as close as you can get them, keeping the Rotor pointing at the #1 wire, then slip the belt on the crank, aligning the mark on the sprocket with the mark on the belt 43teeth and its at about 5:30. Then slip the Tensioner in... its fun, the 94-95's i can do without an extra hand, the older ones a extra set of hands comes in handy.... You can do it

Welcome Linky in my Sig for your Header Search, and yes they will fit our Auto's. Dont worry about those R50 grocery getters... They have Frame Envy Do a seach for Rough Country, JGC spring thats the cheap and easy SL, for BL theres a "how to" and a couple of different sources.... :worthless:

Unless your buying it for the motor/tranny or some other specific project $800 is alot for a fixer.... Not that im one to talk about buying other peoples projects... but the Z has a specific purpose...

There should be a mark on the crank sprocket, it should be at the 5:30 position, with the keyway at about 11:30... Its 43 teeth from the drivers side cam mark to the crank sprocket, mark. Odds are that there will not be an alignment mark on your oil pump, out of 5 motors i have done, only the JDM engine out of the Max had the mark on the oil pump housing.

A new Water pump should give you 4 new studs and nuts with washers.... atleast mine did

Here, Hold my Beer, This is gonna be Fun!!!!

I know, I want to see that SAS in person... We all might have to meet at Zips in Colfax....

Nice lights..... Now if I had read this sooner....

If you learn on the broken engine... It will make putting the new one back in easier Lots of us have pulled these motors for various reasons, we all have different tips... You will have lots of fun, and if you get stuck and cant find it here already or in the FSM/Chilton/Haynes we will be happy to assist, after the usual bashing we will give you

1993 300ZX with a NA VG30DE is in the Garage...... So now my little pipe dream of dropping that Motor in a Pathy is on.... Planning, planning, planning, Budget and a sawzall

If you have the top cover off, your 1/3rd of the way there If you dont know when it was changed last... and your over 60k-110k Change it..... Pull the: Skid Plate Shroud Rad and hoses Fan HB upper and lower cover and your there.... While there, T-stat and water pump.... It is way cheaper than $800 for a JDM delivered to your door..... Then you would get to do all this stuff anyways....

If you pull the Skid plate, you can shine your light up onto the bottom of the water pump snout... you can also use a small inspection mirror to look in and around the t-stat housing and by pass hose.... If it leaked down into the timing cover, you may want to go ahead and do the Pump, t-belt and t-stat.... Coolant has a tendency to degrade them....

AutoZone can check and clear Codes.... R50 doesnt that also have a Gas Cap indicator??? Auto Zone would be your best Bet.... Long term.... Replacement Part # WD21 Sorry I could not resist....

Tuesday Night Im picking up the next piece of my puzzle project.... I think, still not 100% positive.... Ill be here for a while....

When your on my side of the Hill, we will have to get together... Hell I might even let you take the daughter for a ride in your Pathy.....

Green you have had more Pathy's than I own.... Looks Great!!!!

If I had a welder, I would finish welding my front bumper.... If you have measurements and stuff, I will be happy to make some arrangements....

How much for the rear bumper and where???? I need 3

I like the little bracket.... WTF Budlight???? Did you bring enough for the rest of us????

Take it back to the mechanic that said no, and make him replace them all for "FREE"

Im liking this Pathy alot

Price out a new back gate from the junkyard.... preferably one the same color as yours.... I know i paid $600 for a rear bumper I hit in the McDonalds Drive-thru..... not a scratch on it... I met the gal at the same McD's 3 days later to pay for it, and it looked like she had side swiped a dump truck....

If the ear does not work you can always make small adjustments and test drive it....

Check the oil sending unit for leaks as well....

Martin, Just pull the motor, way easier, and gives you room on the stand to do it right the 1st time... Dont try and do it half A$$'s, or you may end up needing more than a Cam....