unccpathfinder

that sucks hope he finds it soon and unharmed...my neighbor had a car stolen out of her driveway (a rusted out altmima) they left a stolen caddy in its place and they found it in 2 weeks where another car was stolen they put 10k on it in that little bit of time if the police cant find that they have some major issues b/c im sure it turns lots of heads

I noticed this happening when its below about 40-50 F...I havent had time to check it out yet but with this leaky clamp deal i smell gas until it gets warm like every1 reports but when i hit the gas the RPMs will drop (maybe 200-300) before going up which also goes away after the truck is warm its suppossed to get back cold so i imagine i can check it out to see if its leaking but if not has any1 else had this problem and if so what was the culprit this is on the 95 pathy i noticed it a couple times after i got it and noticed it again today

this really sucks when ure doing 45 approaching a stop sign...damn glad i had a 5 speed

that sucks...i got sued for 80k 1 time when a guy hit me had on when i was 16...he ended up being a con artist and almost wound up in jail over the whole deal... my pathy lived thru the same situation but it was my dad that did the damage...he and mom were fightin and he left and forgot i park behind him and went strait instead of turning to miss...pushed my truck 5 ft i had to get a new bumper grill corner lights and uhh duct taped in the passenger light...and then he never paid me for it... hope it all works out and the insurance doesnt get too wild

i know my booster moves forwards a lil bit when the pedal is pumped...but then again 4 years ago i was told it was going to go out sometime soon b/c it filled up with brake fluid after my master cylinder went bad (i didnt know it would shoot fluid everywhere when it was bad i thought i had a pin hole between the m/c and booster so i jbwelded it up)... to me it sounds like you've just got a air leak on that line b/c i would think if the m/c was bad it'd do it for all wheels instead of just 1 but im not 100% on that

or "Hey Y'all wanna see some @!*%" i basically did that but i had to repair the crap job the guy that owned my 87 B4 me...i did it a lil different b/c i couldnt figure out how to get the right turn signal to work so i just spliced in there and ran a wire across for it too then there is a plug under the spare tire dip (i think) i cut it and fed the wires up thru B4 soldering and put silicone on it so i could run it up to the hitch unlike the guy b4 he ran it out of the tailgate whenever he wanted to use it and the way it was done was UGLY...

yea they're great trucks and can be a PITA to work on sometimes but i've had an 87 for about 6 years and in those 6 it left me stranded 2 times (1 time the pos battery cable rubbed thru the insulation and melted my battery the other was my fault in not changing the timing belt on time highly recomend doing that) and recently i broke the motor (once again my fault i always blow out around the plugs before pulling them to get any debris out but i guess this 1 piece didnt blow out and fell in the cylinder and hit between the piston and head) so that truck is currently in the middle of a motor swap but i learned how to work on it and it was so dependable that i didnt wanna go to something else so i bought a 95 off of my cousin which the awsome part about that is i can snag stuff off of the 87 if i need to you gotta wheel it at least once or more they're pretty tough trucks i've never broken anything (major) although i didnt try to do any hardcore rock climbing but have been thru some hairy stuff and after i was thru it i knew something was busted but after inspection everything was ok... good luck with the truck and i hope you enjoy it as much as i have mine and they're not too bad to learn on...its what i've done most of my major learning on

you'd be suprised how much you forget in a week or so

theres all kinds of sites out on the web that make custom 1's for about $200 i cant remember the name of the 1's a buddy of mine had but they were for his tacoma that he had custom made with mossy oak and they were sweet...fit the seats pefectly

well dont give up and thats always good its better to have too much information to look back to on paper than not enough to remember in ure head

i never used the wire i've used thread and then flipped them over so they wouldnt fall out...i think it says not to do that but i've never had a lifter tick and u can always prime them which i think the manual talks about dial gages are like $50 if they're cheap they can go on upwards not sure about micrometers i got a full gasket set from napa and it came with head gaskets, exhaust gaskets for the manifolds to heads plus the connections, intake gaskets, thermostat gasket, rear main seal plus that lil gasket in the back, some seals for the oil pick up, oil pan, cam oil seals, valve cover gaskets, water pump gasket and some other things that i know im forgetting and some i have no clue what they went to

one snag i ran into was there are 2 small screws in the heads one on the back side on the pass side and 1 on the front by the dist thats on a lil flange that i didnt see and if u dont get it either u will break that flange off the head or it wont come off at all also for the intake u might need an alan head and/or some u joints to get to some of the nuts for the exhaust maybe a pry bar i'd loosen both sides of the exhaust and then pry each side away form the heads since u rn't keeping the exhaust instead of fighting with breaking all the bolts loose as well as a can of PB blaster or wd40 u might need an easy-out set to get some exhaust studs out b/c more than likely some will break and its easier to remove them when the heads are off of the block (but not really to pull them off that'd be after u got home) the head bolts are an alan head i cant remember what size it was for the cv's the easiest way i found to break them loose is if it has manual locking lock them and use the tire and rotate it so the wrench hits the frame and it makes it extra easy to break loose... for the fan clutch if u have a 10mm racheting box end wrench that might make it a lil easier for the rear axle shafts i cant remember the pitch and thread of the screws u might need to use to press the drums off of the axle but i know my driver side i cant beat the drum with a hammer or nething to break ti loose always have to use the screws also an adjustable wrench to undo the egr from the exhaust

DTA (dont trust anybody) watch'em all around here in charlotte when we get snow i never put it in 4wd b/c its usually a small amount of snow <1ft but some people throw their trucks in 4wd and haul ass and im just like uhh u cant stop so several times i had to get on the gas and get outta some1's way when i was stopped cuze i knew they couldnt stop B4 they hit me yep i always go out to the middle of no where and practice/play with controlled spins and things like that but never around people i'd say stay away from driving on ice at all costs

yea i was on campus which they love to pull for not using turn signals...luckly i didnt run into any of those guys...they're a PITA and will try to write tix for nething...just glad it was something that simple

alright got it fixed...everything was good but i guess when i hit some bumps on campus i didnt have the plug all the way in for the hazard lights in the trim piece b/c it had come undone i plugged it back up and everything is back to working fine

got in the truck this morning and ran up here to the library to do some research and the turn signals worked fine for like the 1st 2 turns or so and then i noticed they werent working and i pushed the hazard lights button and they didnt work either i checked the fuses in the box under the steeringwheel...im thinking its a relay or maybe a fuse under the hood any1 had this problem or know what it is. i also installed my cb yesterday but i dont see how that could affect anything b/c i hard wired it into the fuse box under the horn fuse...(hmm idea i didnt make sure the horn still worked but the cb was so i assumed that that fuse was still good...i'll check after the library)

im not sure how long it takes to flat spot tires but i've heard of it happening so if ure relatives could maybe move it like a foot or 2 every couple of months i think u would be fine and i'd coat'em up with some conditioner(tire magic or something like that) or if ure using a car cover i think that should cover them up

i changed some valves and the belt and she ran like a champ to find TDC u could place a rod thru the spark plug hole...like a welding rod or something in the #1 cylinder (make sure its long enough to not fall in) and rotate the crank and see where it is then i'd take a punch and make the mark (thats what we did with mine during the top end rebuild)

i wouldnt say its slipping yet...i rode in my buddies trans-am when it was slipping and it would hit 2k and the motor would just rev if he was doing hard acceleration and if he was easy it'd go... but i'll think about changing it here asap

i really havent heard of too many problems with the stock mounts? didnt really think our motors put out enough torque to break them maybe im mistaken...but also some sort of diagram or drawing would help explain it b/c im not 100% sure what ure trying to make

i'd go with 2 white depending on price but im sure that it wont be too bad...

sweet the part #'s checked out there too so if i have to do it all i need to do is pick up a pilot bushing and get after it...i dont think i'll be tackling this soon...I got some traveling to do on some follow-up interviews for a job after i graduate so hopefully it doesnt go completly out yet... it doesnt seem to slip all that much just up hill and like i said only 1-200rpms...but i do think it contributes to the "syncro" problem in 1st gear in the slightest bit... Thanks for the input tho

hmm im gonna go ahead and ask it but im also gonna check part #'s...i have a clutch and flywheel i just installed on the 87...its still not running so...if its the same part #'s im just gonna drop the tranny outta it steal the clutch and flywheel from it... does any1 know right off the bat if the tranny's are the same (just for future knowledge) and if not are these the same parts? im getting ready to research but figured i'd ask anyways ::edit:: ok just looked for both the 87 and 95 and the #'s were the same so that seems to be ok...but still does any1 know if theres a diff in the 87 and 95 tranny/transfer case im just wondering if i needed to sometime down the road throw the 87 tranny in the 95 if it was the same and according to some auctions on ebay nissan used the same manual tranny from 85-2002 in the pathy's but uhhmmm 86.5 was the 1st pathy...but assume they're talking about the D21 which i understand to be the same as the WD21

it seems as if my luck is going to keep its path of being crappy. yest and today when i first started the truck and started backing in reverse and 1 time today when i started going forwards right after i started it for the 1st time on these days i got some weird howling noise and the clutch pedal vibrated a lil bit and it only lasted for like 5 secs or so so i'm assuming that it was the throwout bearing... and I noticed sometimes while going up hill the truck kinda "hops" the RPM's dont jump high ammounts maybe 1-200 at a time when its doing that so im guessing the clutch is starting to go...this is on the 95 i just got (i knew before buying it it was gonna need a clutch within the year b/c it has a buncha miles on it i'll have to look thru the book to see when it was last changed but i know she was told she needed to do it within the year)... :sniff:

yea i just put an 86 in my 87 although i havent compeleted it yet b/c of $ and needing a dependable DD so i bought a 95 but plan on finishing her up once i get the $... all i did was pull the flywheel heads and intake change the rear main seal and bolt my stuff up and eveything matches up... u will have to: swap the location of the dipstick swap the oil pickup and some other odds and ins i cant remember right now when u pull ure motor what i did is put all the bolts where they came out then pulled all the brackets off of the maxima motor and sat them side by side and swapped everything over so i didnt mix up parts ohh yes i did forget i didnt have the right puller for my crank gear and when i rented 1 i couldnt get the 1 off of my old motor and the only difference is is the timing belt covers...i checked and it still seals it all up so mud isnt a problem...but this means u have to change water pumps....DONT get the maxima water pump the flange is different and the snout is too short...get a D21 4x2 water pump and it'll work out just fine unless u can get the crank gear off to get the i guess u would call it a "front main seal" with its casting off and swapped over then use ure old timing belt cover and the reg 4x4 wd21 wp