RedPath88

Holes to small? Bolt not long enough? etc? Pic?

The page posted above is the same as the one in the 89 W/D21 FSM, the only differences are the pictures and the code # listed. On the posted page it is Code 43, but in the 89 W/D21 FSM, it's code 51, otherwise the pages are the same. But here is a scan from my FSM CODE 51 Page EF & EC-121 http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/4325/19...121code5vh8.gif EDIT: Another Page CODE 51 Page EF & EC-120 http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/8841/19...120code5tx2.gif

Sure... until you rip one off

FYI those aren't tow hooks, they are shipping anchor points

If you need copies from an original WD21 FSM, PM me. I live and Yelm and could meet you tomorrow (kinkos or someplace with a copier?) and you could get them directly from my 1989 FSM.

Well not truely unrelated as it supports the bad connection theory, but anyway.... W/L should be a White wire with a Blue strip And for reference, on W/D21's the page your looking it as for code 51 (not 43), They contain the same info, just the wrong code for a Pathfinder/Hardbody ECU. *continues looking at the FSM for more information*

You know, you don't need to keep "moving" this post to the end, anyone reading this thread has and/or will see it

My truck just did this today (3k rpm), but I found a loose connection (right hand connector). I apparently did not get it all the way in when I cleared the computer afte installing the cams last weekend. With a little luck that is all it was. I pulled off the road and checked codes, which it returned 51 (Injector Circuit) I unplugged and ECU for about 20min, plugged it back in and off I went, not another problem... hopefully it stays that way.

Oh I never said anything against that... a fee was mostly applied to guy's

Make sure that covers your time, materials and their attitude! I gotta say, your cheap... lol I used to do that with my yota (have not done much with the Pathy) and my "fee" was based more on the situation and THEM. The more attitude they had the more I asked for. If they were to big of an ass then I would wish them luck and leave. I did it for free many tiems and only a couple times did I refuse any payment, all but one was because it took next to nothing to get them out. The other was when I pulled a lady all the way up a big hill... she was a wreck, not the car, her... she was fresh out of the hospital with a newborn, her husband was supposed to pick her up but never showed and she could not get a hold of him and she had no family in the area (this all according to her of course) But two things were for sure, she could not make it up the hill and she did have a newborn in the car.

GG is exactly right... that is the very same thing i did when I picked mine up. I measured what would fit on mine, then went around measuring everything I could find, that I liked, in the wrecking yard. I walked out with an S10 Blazer rack, did it fit stock? Nope, not even close, but did it fit once I was done measuring and cutting? Sure did

Just a suggestion... right or wrong in this case, try not to base an entire chain on one experience at one shop... I have been to FS several times (a couple of them) and have never had an issue. In fact, here on this site, their Lifetime Alignment comes highly recommended, I had it done myself

You can get a belt wrench or use the old timing belt (wrap it around it and hold it tight) Another option ould be to stick a screwdriver through one of the holes and rest it against one of the backplate mounting bolt heads (a socket would also work here) Air tools are IMO kind of overkill on removing the cam bolt, you can use of one the methods above to hold the gear and loosen the bolt.

"Part" of the point of this is to advertise the website... so more people come, check us out and hopefully join

They are M6x1.0

Yeah none of the pullers I have bought have ever had the correct size included with them

For soem reason, I do not doubt that Nice to se ya Rami

Same here, except I say Pathfinder forum

Simple mistake, no worries

Best way? I think you probably answered your own question... yakima mounts or a light bar. But since you don't wany either of them, then you might have to build a custom bracket to attach to your rack. I think there is a person or two here that has come up with alternate methods, just have to wait and see...

I combined these two topics since the second one was just an extension of the first (don't really need two covering the same info) And to answer, Yes you can use just one switch to trip both relays

Yeah same here, I have never bothered buying a "special" tool for it when a screwdriver works fine

Tranny Pan? You have an Auto right? They are talking about 5spd manuals

Check for spark then we'll go from there

Assuming the fuel is making into the firing chambers, check for spark. Did it make any odd sounds at any of these points? 1. When it died 2. When you first tried to restart it 3. When you try and start it now How many miles does it have on it and when was the last time the timing belt was changed?