exit34rocker1017

Wondering if anyone can help me here. I get a bad vibration (like the whole truck vibrates) when I am not moving and the truck is either reverse, drive, 2 or 1. It does not happen in neutral or park. It gets worse when the brakes are applied. When I let off the brakes to drive, the vibration goes away, and does not happen when I am driving. However at a red light, I stop and the whole truck vibrates to the point where the windows rattle. Any ideas? Thanks Rob

how are the shocks with the SFD now? if those work and have the appropriate amount of travel do you think you could post the part number?

you should get the 2" lift springs from 4x4parts.com. as far as everything else, you can get them wherever you want. i would suggest bilstein shocks for the rear. also get KYB struts. i have never heard a bad thing about them. tons of people hate the ranchos and have gotten KYB's instead. you can find the shocks and struts on 4x4parts.com, however it is a little pricey. i got my struts from amazon, and the shocks from 4x4parts. you're also going to want to get camber alignment bolts. these can be purchased from 4x4parts, or at summitracing.com for half the price. you want 14mm camber bolts. if you are going with the AC lift, get 2 pairs of bolts. your then going to want to get NEW OEM ( from your nissan dealership ) upper strut mounts and strut bearings. you can also get these from factorynissanparts.com. i feel like im forgetting something, but i dont think i am. you should consider warn hubs to help alleviate stress on the cv's and improve gas mileage. you can get the warn hubs anywhere, amazon, ebay...the part number you need is 29091 for the locking hubs. again everything is covered here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4990

I just did mine. Its really easy. All you need is a 22mm wrench and some PB blaster! Let me know if you have any trouble or need help

didnt you have to use rear spacers after the springs cause they were too short? so since he also had 4" SFD and 2" AC lift shouldn't he not copy your order and order .5"-1" longer?

that is awesome steve, i have been looking for a thread like that for a while! if you had the flexible pipe run inside the fender, then drilled a hole close to the antenna and brought it to the roof, would that essentially be a snorkel?

Is there an easy solution to better protect my engine when crossing? In the summer I crossed water that wasn't even that deep. I had water all in my air filter box, and the truck wouldn't start. I don't know how it got in there. What I'm trying to say is, is there a way to relocate things or seal the intake system so there's less chance of hydrolocking? It kind of sucks that the only snorkel made for the R50 is a PITA to fit and actually work.

transmission fluid pan bolts?

these have been out for a decently long time. i really want these. if only money grew on trees...

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7192 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=4990 some key points: do not get rancho struts. get kyb gr-2s get OEM strut bearings and strut tower mounts, NOT kyb's mounts.

i wouldnt run 35's on just the SFD unless you wanna cut a lot. 33's will still look great with only a 4" SFD. if you stack AC springs on top of the SFD, 35's will look great!

if you're into steel wheels, grab some 16x8 steel wheels. theyre cheap!

Billy did this end up working?

that was my other concern, tire wear. with the 8's i have to run a lower psi so the center doesn't wear down faster than the sides, but with a 10" wide rim, they might stick out TOO far and i might have to trim TOO much hmmmmm what to do...

he only wants to fit 32's, not 285/75/16. and he also points out that he has 15" rims, not 16". you need to find out the backspacing for the wheels you have. they are probably 15x7, and if you have a decent backspacing you will be able to run the tires fine. a backspacing of 4.25 is the highest without hitting the strut. if you have higher than that, i would say get some wheel spacers. i am always iffy about wheel spacers though, so if i were you i would just try to get new wheels.

if you get pics that would be great. i also heard that the center of the tire wears quicker, so i would have to run a lot lower psi i believe.

my main concern is whether or not i can run a 12.5" wide tire on an 8" wide rim

I am really getting disgruntled about choosing rims when I get a SFD going. I have a few questions. Can you mount a 15x8 with 2.50 backspacing rim on a 12.5 wide tire? The minimum rim width says 8.5, but I have heard of people running it like that. If not, I would have to get 15x10's with 2.50 backspacing. My next question is with the 15x10's. Will they rub? I have not heard of anyone running these. I simply don't know what to do because an 8 inch wide wheel might not be okay, but a 10 inch wide wheel might rub like hell. ALSO, is 2.50 backspacing too little? Some have gotten wheel spacers with rims with backspacings of 3.75. I'd rather not run wheel spacers if that backspacing on those rims is okay. The whole reason I am going with 15 inch rims is because they are so much cheaper than 16! I don't mind slightly grinding the caliper down and saving a few hundred dollars.

what exactly is the strut bar for? stability?

i was lucky enough to barely find any rust at all. there was small surface rust that was starting to appear where the holes in the fender were. but they were easily sanded out and touched up. not a big problem. it all depends on where the truck is located and how its been taken care of though.

1999.5 113,000

i have removed mine in order to add different rubber flares for a different look. the stock ones are easy to remove. there are a few screws which are easy to get to. once you unscrew them you just pop the flare out. it is held in by little pop in caps. (i dont know what to call them ) there is no adhesive. just be careful when your popping the flare out. try not damage the fender or the flare itself!

they aren't that loose, however i just blew air on them and in the holes. now the engine light is not blinking but it is still idling weird when in park and drive. it sort of shudders and you can see the rpm needle shake a little.

i also forgot to mention i did clean the MAF sensor with rubbing alcohol and q tips. it might not have dried properly. could this be the case?

i just cleaned my engine with simple green. i followed all the precautions by covering the spark plugs, distributor, fuse boxes, etc. i start the car and everything seems ok, however it idles at about 1100 RPM. when i put it into drive or reverse, the engine light starts blinking and my truck starts shaking. this was right after i cleaned it. can anyone help me with this problem? thank you!