exit34rocker1017

the struts are the same, as for the shocks, i really dont know. maybe someone else can clear that up for me. you do not need longer break lines.

It won't cause any problems, but again it's highly recommended. Your putting brand new coil springs on suspension that is 10+ years old. It will work, but it's not good for the truck. I too was a student on a budget, and it took me over a year to finally get enough money. Will save you a lot of hassle if you do it all at the same time. I mean the struts and shocks have to come off to put the new springs in. Why not just replace them? FYI I got my struts from amazon for around $130 for the both of them. And you can get cheap shocks that could be as cheap as $30 a shock.

you don't need strut spacers. new shocks and struts are highly recommended especially with the larger springs if you are lifting it. get them from another place other than 4x4parts. they are a lot cheaper elsewhere so its good especially if you are on a budget.

i have a silimar problem with mine. when i have it in the low speed position it runs, stops halfway like in the middle of the window occasionally, and then when i turn it off it runs fine. it only happens in the cold though.

Will do, thanks!

Thanks for the advice guys. I am heading to Winter Park, Florida, to help a friend pack up and move back here to NJ. It will be a winter trip, as we are expecting to leave Sunday. I just changed my brakes and repacked the bearings and did an oil change 500 miles ago. Should I still do one? Also changed most of my fluids 1000 miles ago, but still will top off some like coolant, brake fluid, and washer fluid. All advice is appreciated!

Like the title says, I am making a 2000 mile drive from NJ to Florida on Sunday. What precaution/preparations if any, should I do to my truck to ensure I get there without problems?

So these things are only mounted up with 6 bolts? Thats all?

i love how it flows with the truck. thats one of the nicest looking bumpers ive seen. good job!

ya know ive tried that remedy maybe three times, and my windows are still slow as ........

I also have manual hubs, and when I removed the hubs I had a snap ring I still had to remove. If you are working on the passenger side, turning the wheel to the left (counter-clockwise) will provide more room to pull it out. Once you remove the snap ring you should be able to push the outer part of the CV with your finger and feel that it can be pushed out. It can only be pushed out if you remove the 6 mounting bolts. I didn't have to remove the control arm bolts, because I removed the strut to knuckle bolts instead. Both of them drop the control arm, but I think it's easier to do it by the 2 large strut bolts. From memory I'll try to make a list of what I did. 1) Jack up car, remove tire 2) Loosen the 6 bolts holding the locking hub on and remove hub 3) You should be able to see the CV splined shaft now, with a snap ring on a part of the splined shaft. Remove it. 4) At this point you should be able to push the outer shaft of the CV out, but not all the way. 5) Remove the 6 bolts connecting the CV to the differential 6) support the control arm/knuckle with a jack, and remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. 7) droop the control arm/brake/hub assembly slowly and remember to disconnect the brake and ABS line from the strut do they do not stretch. 8) try to maneuver the CV axle out, and turn the wheel to the left if you are working on the passenger side if necessary.

Yes doing the shaft is easier than doing the boot itself. I did the shaft replacement right before the east coast was swamped with 3 feet of snow. When i took the wheel off it started blizzarding. I really needed 4WD for the storm, but talk about last minute! Anyway, you remove the hub assembly, take off the snap ring that holds the CV in place. Then take off the 6 bolts on the inner part of the CV. It might be able to slide through, but depending how worn it is, you might need to take out the strut to spindle mounting bolts. Turning the wheel helps also. The CV will simply slide out. No need to mess with any brake components or remove the rotor/caliper. You do have to jack up the car and take off the wheel to get to the hub assembly though. Its an easy job.

mine did that for a while. just look under the car while its rattling, that is if it does is in park also. mine did it only in park. or you could just take them all off. mine rusted a lot so i cut them all off.

looks awesome! how did you wire them?

would fenders from a 96-99 fit a 99.5-2004? or vise versa?

the sound youre talking about sounds very familiar. i too have a vibration where the whole truck shakes. for me it only happens in R, D 2 and 1, and is only when i am not moving and am on the brakes. i too think this is an engine mount. it was hard to tell, but i checked the transmission mount and it seemed to be fine. now the problem is changing the engine mounts, because i don't know how! the way i look at it in your case is, if the engine is under a lot of load it causes it to work harder, meaning it is more prone to vibration if it is not secured properly. a bad engine mount would cause the vibration. someone correct me if i am wrong...

if you can, can you take a picture of the truck from the front and from the back? i want to see how much the 11.5 wide tires stick out with 3.75 backspaced wheels. looks GREAT though!

This is the second R50 in the past month that has been hit! It's really a shame, but it just goes to show that anything can happen at any given time. Glad you're okay. Hopefully things work out, and if not, you could always interchange parts like arcano did with his new R50 if you get another one. It's hard to look at those pictures!

Well its up to you. you can run anything up to 12.5 wide. Just depends if you wanna go with a 33 or a 35 inch tire. I would stick to 33 considering the stress you're putting on a lot of things by running 35's. You might read that you need an 8.5-11" rim for a 12.5" wide tire, but if you properly run the right air pressure you will not have any issues with irregular wear patterns. IMO, 33x12.5 with 3.75 backspacing on your 15x8 will look great with the AC lift and the SFD. I am doing 33x12.5 as well, just with a 16inch rim. hope this helps!

i wouldnt do 4" backspacing cause people with 3.75 have said this was the absolute max backspacing you should run because even with that it is close to the strut. but if you are running a 285/75 which i think is a 11.5 wide tire...you should be more than good with a 16x8 with 3.75 backspacing.

pro comp sells steel wheels with 3.75 backspacing...or you can get 16x8 with 2.50 backspacing like i am getting.

I opened the hood and looked in when the vehicle was running and in park, and the engine was shaking very slightly, but the vibration was not occurring. How hard is it to change motor mounts?

Found out tonight that the vibration also shutters or goes on and off when the wheels are turned.