Rick13

Super Slider Topic Maybe they are manufacturing them differently than when I purchase mine a couple years ago, but they have held up extremely well for both me and Thunderbolt...and niether of us are by ANY means easy on them. Just my

I have nothing against a lower vehicle (always wanted to lower my wife's Maxima). Nice "shocker" sticker on the mirror.

Yeah, it looks really good next to that stock rig. I found myself finding comparisons right after I lifted mine each time:

Not a confirmation, but according to measurements, those are quite a bit shorter in free length: Rear R50 coils are 14.38" stock and AC/4x4Parts 2" lift coils are 15".

I actually started with the custom spring research (towards the bottom of the list I attached). But after a few emails with Andrew at KR Fabs, found that the cost for his adapter plus aftermarket WJ springs was actually a pretty sweet deal. I also found fairly wide selection of spring lengths/spring rates for the WJ. I've purchase 2 sets of rear springs and KR Fabs adapter and I still haven't spent as much money as if I had gone the custom spring route. So my reasoning was originally to save money but I think I have a pretty sweet setup in the end (pun intended). Can't wait to see how you figure things out.

Hope this formats OK. Its from an Excel spreadsheet I made last spring: Lift ID OD FL Spring Rate Stock Coils 0 4.9" 6" 14.38 115 lb/in AC Coils 2" 5" 6" 15 160 lb/in Iron Rock WJ 3" 4.625" 6" 15.25 175 lb/in Rusty's WJ 4.5" 4.75" 6" 16.25 150 lb/in Iron Rock WJ 4" 4.625" 6" 16.5 175 lb/in TeraFlex 4" 4.625" 6" 16.25 190 lb/in Custom Coils 5.5 5" 6" 18.75 160 lb/in Iron Rock WJ 6.5" 4.75" 6.125" 18.625 200 lb/in

I'm guessing that the less than 1/2" difference in diameter is so small that it might not affect much. I'm thinking that as long as the upper spring fits decently and the lower spring can be secured with an adapter of sorts, it won't result in anything adverse. Just my thoughts.

Add a hitch receiver and I'd buy that design. Very nice. Does the jerry can sit a bit high for departure angle. Just curious about the design, again, think it looks really cool.

Were they "top mount" spacers? Or did they go btw the spring and the strut top mount?

Me too.

Yeah, Andrew makes some quality products. I can see how that new perch adapter will make the spring sit higher and help level the vehicle. Shoot, I still have my 4" WJ springs that are pre-cut to fit the upper perch if anyone is interested (just PM me and I bet we could work something out). That sure is a nice looking steering linkage. Does the steering linkage allow for some minor length adjustment? Just wondering if you could still rotate the steering rack to better line things up. Just curious.

Wow, then yeah, please post that up. I've heard of folks extending the links to the sway bar, but haven't seen adding length to the bar itself. Can't wait to see it. Sorry if I a bit ramdala, but please let us know where you were out 4-wheeling.

Maybe Timmons is refering to the Pan Hard Bar and not the sway bar. I took my sway bar off 2 years ago and haven't looked back. Ramdala, where were you guys wheeling? I always like to look up where people wheel their rigs. Thanks!

Dude, your install pic's gave me flashbacks!!! Nice write-up, well done. It looks great.

I went with the Pro Comp ES9000. I'm sure it's comparable to the ES3000, but I had a super discount offered through 4WP (making each about $28). Any ways, if memory serves, it is part # 929500. Sorry, was having a deja vu: My link

If you spend some time searching I'm quite sure at least a few SFD threads have examples of what you can use. Here is what I used to compliment my 6" rear lift: Ford F-250 ProComp ES9000 (Part #929500) about 29.5" ext and 17.5" comp I've wheeled them pretty hard on occassion and they are holding up well.

Any time I hear a lifted R50 owner say "rapid thud" I think of strut top-out. I still get it once in a while, but I drive much differently now (slower) when going over speed bumps/deep potholes/rocks over 12" tall... Just my

Nice.

I'm NOT suggesting that the LSD is worth changing to, but I can attest to being able to roll out of a flexed out position (driver's rear wheel completely dangling) because of the limited slip. I've had to practice how much brake I use while giving a little gas. I've now done it a handful of times and think I can make it work quite regularly now. Thunderbolt watched me do this on Red Cone Pass about 2 weeks ago and honestly it's feels pretty cool to pull off when it looks like a new line is in order. Again, not trying to sway you either way, just my

Andrew makes good stuff, so I have no doubt it will be quality/well measured pieces...I just wanted as much flex as humanly possible without messing with driveline/control arms and such. Good luck and you should post up so we can see his new creation!

Man Andrew, your posts seem to have a propensity to get . Can't we all just But seriously, you guys might want to make a new thread for the conversation (or we probably already have a topic for this and I'm just to lazy to check). If you do make a new one, I'll be sure to tune in and watch.

I think you can buy a "channel mount" for a rear hatch. That might be a pretty slick setup out back. Hey at least it's not on your hood - Vertical Door Jamb

Well, I finally got some time on a weekend to spend on my rig. I placed the spring compressors on (the cheap ones from HF) and then jacked up the driver's side. The springs lifted out quite easily even with the upper bump stop and the lower perch adapter (KR Fabs) still in place. I measured and marked the spring to cut about 3/4" off the height of the coil (I was afraid to cut too much). I then took my cheap angle grinder (HF again) and cut it off (about 15-20 seconds of cutting time). When I placed it back on the rig it lowered just over 1" (so now my driver's side is at 39.75" fender to ground. I repeated the process for the passenger side and it now sits at about 40.25". Given that I have cut exactly equal amounts of spring from each side, I'm still trying to figure out if the passenger side sitting higher is due to the gas tank/full size spare being on the driver's side or if I need to cut the passenger down...then again, it's pretty gosh darn close and I think I'll just call it good for now. I drove it around the block (0-30 mph with acceleration/hard stops) and to work this morning (0-50 mph in traffic) and there is not even a hint of driveline vibration. That is all I was going for with the recent cuts. It still has a slight rake from back to front, so that is cool too (sorry, love that look). I will take photos of the cut pieces (I kept the pig tails from the original cut just for this purpose) and post up the estimated cut lengths of each coil. I'll also try to get some pics (parking lot again) of how she sits now. I'll try to get those up this evening. Again, love the springs, and in case someone else wants to go this route, at least they'll have something to reference.

How much space do you need in the back to clear? 1/2"? (or did I miss that post) I'd suggest you just get new rims, but you might need different spacing in the front than in the rear, so it might not even be a good option with your setup. I also like the fact you are still using stock rims. I've looked at pic's of mine with the 2" lift and 31's and still like how they looked. I think they look even better with large tires (33+).

I don't like it. Those tires are too big. Ha! It looks awesome, really nice stuff.