XPLORx4

The worst that can happen is your vehicle will be impounded. The minimum that will happen is that, when you finally get around to registering the vehicle, the department of motor vehicles will assess penalties for late registration. In Calfornia, the penalties are pretty steep: up to 160% of the original fee, depending on how late you register. If you want a precise answer, contact the Washington State Department of Licensing and ask them what happens when you forget to register your vehicle.

Does your truck have the same amount of power, or have you noticed lack of acceleration and performance? As noted above, it may be time for ignition component replacement. If you do all the above maintenance, yet still have poor fuel economy, it's also possible, although much harder to diagnose (and far more expensive), that your catalytic converter(s) may be plugged.

This video? :o

That was pretty bad driving, for sure, but to be fair, I don't think the driver was able to see the spotter anymore when he started waving his arms to the left. I've walked up that climb (Hell's Gate) on Hell's Revenge, and it's steep- I mean, use-all-fours-to-ascend steep. There are lots of obstacles like that in Moab where all you can see is sky. Unless the spotter is standing to the side, sometimes you can't even see him over the hood.

Yes, you could put manual hubs on, but be sure to use them ONLY with 2WD mode. If you use All-mode (Auto 4WD) and accidentally have the hubs unlocked, you could seriously damage the drivetrain. The fuel economy savings, if any, with manual hubs and 2WD may not be significant enough over stock/2WD to warrant the purchase of manual hubs or the risk of being forgetful and using all-mode with the hubs unlocked... But if you rarely use all-mode, and can always remember to lock the hubs in anything except 2WD, it could be worth it to experiment. Just don't be disappointed if you don't see any real gains.

If the key wouldn't turn the ignition switch, then it could be that your steering wheel was locked in a position that placed tension on the switch. Wiggling the steering wheel back and forth as you try to turn the switch relieves the tension so the key will turn. If it was some other problem, please be more specific. At any rate, it sounds like you've got the problem being taken care of... ???

The SE wheels are 15x7, which will fit 31x10.50R15 tires just fine.

Why did they tell you your bushings need to be replaced? Does your truck handle poorly or sway at back and forth sometimes at highway speeds? If so, you can get away with replacing only the lower arms/bushings. The upper arms are tougher to reach, and only serve to keep the axle from twisting. The lower links stabilize the axle so it doesn't move front-to-back. The panhard rod keeps the axle from moving side-to-side. Replacement arms include the bushings, but you can replace only the bushings if you want. It's more labor to replace the bushings, since you have to remove the arm, press out the old bushings and press in new ones. If you have access to a fully equipped auto shop, do it yourself. In fact, you don't even need a lift, but it's helpful if you have one that you drive the vehicle onto, such as an alignment lift, not a 2-post lift that lifts the frame. It just makes getting to the arms easier. Get a price quote on the replacement arms here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...=49&catalogid=0 If your truck has seen salt-covered roads and you've got a bit of rust underneath, the bolts may be seized to the bushings and you'll have to cut 'em off. But of course you won't know this until you start the work, though.

31x10.50R15 on factory SE alloy wheels should be OK. But since you have an LE (presumably with the factory "spoke" wheels, which are 15x6.5, too narrow for 31's) you should replace them with 15x7 or 15x8 wheels.

Check your brake fluid level. As the front pads wear, the system fluid level decreases, triggering the light. Also check your front brake pads. They may need replacement soon.

The problem you're describing is caused by drivetrain binding and/or tires scrubbing on the pavement. Your 4WD is operating as designed. In 4WD, all wheels attempt to rotate at the same speed. In tight turns such as what you're describing, all 4 wheels need to rotate at different speeds because they're all traversing different arcs in a circle. 4WD is preventing this, so the drivetrain starts to bind. When drivetrain binding exceeds tire traction, the tire starts to scrub. Do not use 4WD except on low-traction surfaces where the tires can "slip". (FYI- wet pavement is not a low-traction surface.) Test 4WD only on dirt, gravel, sand, etc. Repeated use of 4WD on high-traction surfaces will at best shorten tire life, and at the worst break a drivetrain component.

There should be no fee if you suspect the manifolds are cracked. When you take it in, tell the service advisor you hear a "ticking sound" coming from the exhaust manifolds when the engine is cold. Inform them that you're aware that the manifolds are warranty-covered to 100K miles, and ask how long it will take to fix the problem.

Is that 'cause 3/4 of them are broken? (I understand the Lambo's aren't the most reliable beasts; I saw a "Top Gear" episode in which they didn't have many positives to say about Lambo's.)

Click on the bidder's name to get his profile, then look at his feedback, which has links to his most recent transactions. He has a penchant for time-travel devices. He must have missed Napoleon Dynamite.

Pull off the connector, clean out the holes and the metal parts of the connector with a little silicone lubricant and an old paintbrush, toothbrush, Q-tip, or whatever else works, then apply some dielectric grease to the connectors and plug it back in. That might help with the intermittent connection.

The fuse diagram is on the back of the coin tray. When you go to replace the fuel filter, it's highly likely that even after you release the pressure, the fuel filter lines will still squirt on you and the ground. But, you can minimize this by clamping the rubber lines on either side of the fuel filter with C-clamps or vise-grips.

First things first. Find out what the error code is. It may have nothing to do with the fuel system. But since you asked, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. If you lift the left rear seat, you can see where the electrical harness (for the fuel pump and fuel gauge sender) goes into the fuel tank. The opening is also where you would pull the fuel pump from the tank. If you want to release pressure on the fuel line (such as when you replace the fuel filter that's attached to the body above the rear differential) just remove the fuel pump fuse behind the coin tray, and crank the engine until it won't start.

I would start by replacing the fuel filter. If the problem persists, the fuel pump could be failing, but to be sure you (or a mechanic) would probably need to test the fuel pressure and do some other checks to determine whether it's really the fuel pump. The problem could be elsewhere, though, not in the fuel system.

If you're working on a diff drop, why stop there? Drop the entire front subframe, so you could make the drop 4, 5, or even 6 inches (with an equivalent strut spacer)!

Additional flex doesn't cause any more stress on the CV boots any than turning the steering wheel. Removing the swaybar just allows each wheel to move more independently, rather than together. Think about it; the normal suspension movement that occurs when both wheels move up and down at the same time isn't any different than the normal suspension movement that occurs when one wheel moves up and the other moves down. The left CV doesn't care what the right CV is doing. Additional CV joint or CV boot wear would occur if you constantly operated them at their max extension or exceed their maximum operating angle by using strut spacers (which I strongly discourage).

I think the ARB Sahara Bar is a direct bolt-on solution for your model year, but expect to pay over US$1000 plus installation (unless you do it yourself). Not sure who carries them or has them in stock, but you could probably try the link above, desertrat.com, or 4x4parts.com, or any of the sites listed here.

Huh? What does a diff drop have to do with a swaybar? CV angles are limited by max suspension travel, not by articulation.... :confused:

I'm running 32" MTRs on heavy steel wheels. The front swaybar is removed. I have a heavy bullbar and winch, and a roof-rack that probably weighs a hundred pounds. I have KYB GR2 struts up front, and a 2+" lift. While there is more body roll with the swaybar removed, the truck still corners quite well at speed. I believe the higher cg, increased body roll, and extra weight is substantially offset by having a 5" wider track and the gas-charged KYB struts. (The 5" wider track is a result of 15x8 wheels with slightly negative offset and much bigger tires. Stock was 15x6.5 wheels with positive offset and 235/70R15 tires.) Attached is a 3-year-old photo when I had only 31s and 0 offset aluminum wheels. You can see how much wider my truck looks compared to the stock Pathy beside it. Here's a recent photo with 32's.

On the VG-series motors, the exhaust manifold warranty was extended to 100,000 miles. (That would be 160,000 km.) Not sure if a similar warranty exists on the VQ. Take it to the dealer and ask about extended coverage for manifolds. If it's covered, then have the work done under warranty. If it's not covered, then you can decide what course of action to take.

Hahaha, it's hooked up to an iPod.