GrimGreg

I've never thought either of my Pathys were underpowered, the 88 could use some viagra, because it doesn't have any get up and go, but after a minute you are going just fine. So no speed, but it has got some good pulling power, it can (and has) yank a full size truck out of the ditch no problem. My 93 on the other hand, it has some go-go to it, but it also has aftermarket exhaust and intake.

If it just bolts to the diff, should be easy to fix.

Yeah, when we are talking ALL Nissan SUVs, it's a short list (even counting ones not available in NA).

Swap in an older dash

They are a castle nut, doesn't take much.

And mushroom the nut....

The black thing on the LCA, yeah, it is a generic bolt on bump stop. The stock ones fell off.

Hope you didn't mangle it, never tap the threaded end of things, they'll mushroom and you'll never thraed a nut on it again (unless you are really good with a thread die).

30 on a bumpy road, hmmm couldn't be the problem....

Yep, loosen the nut and tap the side of the "wheel assembly" where it goes through (not the tie rod) with a hammer till it pops loose. It can take a few good smacks, but they'll pop.

Here is a pic of my 88 when it was appart because I was replacing a boot on my CV: Dunno if that helps you any...

I know exactly the parts I'm looking at.... I mean the part in the middle of your picture, all it is is a piece of metal that sticks out of the frame for the the lower bump stop to have something to bump into....and actually it holds the upper bumpstop which you are missing (that is what that hole is for on the top). And like I said, the part below that, where the LCA mounts IDK if it is bent or not.

After dragging mine a couple times on the carrier while offroading, I can see the reason to move it off that location, and had mine up in my basket for a while. I actually bent my carrier the one time. Another reason, is not all our trucks came with a rear carrier, so it gets the spare out of the cargo area.

If the instructions don't mention it, you need to remove the CV shaft to replace them. Otherwiase straight forward R&R.

The bump stop ..stop ( ) looks OK, not sure on the LCA mount.

Maybe even a heli-coil type thing...

Could you get an intermediate threaded reducer piece to adapt one to the other?

You might have got a manifold for a VG30I rather than for your VG30E.

They can handle the basket and tire just fine. You won't cave the roof, but if you get too much weight you might snap the bars.

The part between the ball joints that the wheel hub rides on via the bearings.

Could be like the map lights. My 93 didn't have them, but the place to bolt the bracket and the wiring for them was hidden above my headliner. However, when I took the headliner out of my 88 there was no mount pre-existing to mount the metal bracket to, so I gave up on that upgrade on the 88. Even if you have to add mount points, if it is bolt on, it should be fairly simple to just unbolt from th donor and figure a way to rig it in place on your's.

Both of mine have minor oil leaks, so I use up the remaining partial quart inbetween changes to keep them topped off.

Once you hit about 2k rmp any electric fan blower like that will become a drag on the system rather than a help.

You would have to drop the crossmember, and remove the diff, then reinstall the crossmember to do that. For the CVs just gotta cap off the opening in the back of the spindle. But, yes, you can gut the front drivetrain and still drive the vehicle.

I agree there, but I doubt there will be a rock crawling, mud running, trail riding simulation that isn't time/speed based. Why 99% of the games these days are spray and pray FPS games, kids can't think anymore, so the technical stuff bores them.