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jmcardamone

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Everything posted by jmcardamone

  1. I got one on my 89. If you want it, Ill send it to ya. Make me an offer.
  2. ok guys. I need your advice. I Just got a new Crossover and a new Extension Pipe. (all piping from the manifolds back to the Extension from the cat). I got them off no Problem, and the passenger side is really no biggie, But the Drivers Side i am Having a Hard time getting the stud and some of the nutz on. I got one of them on, and I know i can get the other, its just a Case of Gouing to the store and getting more, but that damm Stud is Being a prick. can i just use a Damm bolt there instead. I cant Really get to them from the bottom, unless it looks like i remove the front driveshaft. Any Idea's or anoyone do this before and have any thougts? I gave up cuz it got too dang cold and i was getting snowed on.. gonna have to garage it.... thanks!
  3. Man, that CutAGasket stuff is SHWEEEETTT! Does a NICE Job in a Pinch!
  4. Ok guys Check this out. All the Piping from manifolds to the cat, with gaskets, with shipping, 97 Bucks!! I CAN BEAT THAT WITH A STICK!! and From what i Heard, they are a Normal Part of A pathfinders Exhaust Problems. I have NEVER had a Pathfinder without Stinky Exhaust! HEHE. Im Exicted!
  5. Oh boy. I sleep in my Pathfinder regularly. When i want to sleep in, or my Wife is bothering me. I go out with my Pillow and blankey and Sleep in my pathy.. Oh I forgot, I Drive it up my Hill in the Front of my yard First into the woods so there's not enough room for her to come and Get to me when im in it. Ahhh. Like a Vacation on wheels man. As far as head room, im 6 ' 2". Im grinding out my Seat Pins and Putting in a Pin with a hole for a cotter pin or something along those lines. along the same idea as the pins in the legs of a colapsaeable engine lift. it usually dosent bother me much anyway, i sleep with my head at the Hatch end anyway. I can seee the stars that way and lets me forget my wif...er troubles... hahahaha. Oh yeah. and a Twin Mattress fits niceley in there, but its kinda close to the celing..... And ive been doing this for about a year now........
  6. I had the Exact same Problem with my auto. I found that the Best way to get it to catch is to Put it in reverse, Keep the Parking Brake and foot brake on, and Rev the motor. It Almost allways Catches that way, But Eventually you are going to break Something. You really should have it looked at like the Other Guys mentioned. OR go Manual!!
  7. I reindexed my Tbars on my 87 before the motor went, and WOW did it make a GREAT Improvment in Ride height and stability. what i did was Get the Splines aligned where the Adjuster was out of the little bar at the Bottom and the Wedge it back together with a Long Screwdriver. then i ran it up with a Impact wrench. Brough that front end up about 2-3 Inches from what it was, and lost a LOT of Body Roll. Id Try it before replacing!
  8. Well, MY thought would be to Align the Timing marks on the Crankshaft pully. THis should give you TDC on the Correct Stroke...
  9. To 94: I got a spare Tank here if your Intrested.. the Skidplate is no longer... It was Turned into Floorboards for an 85 Nissan 720 Pickup.... Recycleing at its best! Allready Pulled and Ready to Go....
  10. You mentioned that is quiets Down when warm? How about Replacing the gear oil in the Tranny. It May bee a Failing Input Shaft Bearing that might be Seizing up due to Improper Fluid Maint on the tranny, or High Revs in Low gears. I had an 87 Maxima that did the same thing. and 3 or 4 Days later, BOOM. The input Shaft Bearings seized and Threw something through the Top of the Tranny. the Hole was about the size of a newborn baby's Head. Just an Idea///
  11. Then One question... Why would you purchase a Nissan Only to Convert it to a Chevy? I can Understand One wanting to Gain more power or Tourqe, But i just dont understand why you would want to put a Motor that will never Last as Long as the Body in the Truck? not to Knock chevy or Ford, but apples to oranges, Import Motors last Longer than MOST American Motors. Im not saying ALL, but lets loook at the Majority of the Guys on this Site 150-200K Miles and Still Rollin without any Problems. Im not trying to knock anyone, a Project is a Project and Much respect to that, But the whole challenge of building a Pathy up is to keep it a pathy!
  12. Here's my two cents... My 87 did the same thing, Only at 3,000 RPM. I checked the CAS and the TPS, both were ok. After Messing with it for about a week, the motor Blew... Right out the side of the Block! (thats why my 87 is listed in the "parts" section HA), anyhoo, If you havent Checked your Crank angle sensor or teh codes, Do so. if all seems well, Ensure that you have Sufficent Fuel Pressure and VOLUME! 88path Knows the Correct PSI, and the volume test one might mention on..... good luck!
  13. My Experiance has been as follows.. 1. you MUST jack the front end up so BOTH tires are off the Ground 2. Run the adjusters for the Tbars Out untill the Ajusting Screw Leaves its nut 3. Unbolt the 3 Bolts on the Lower a-arm. I found an Impact Wrench works best as Sometimes hand Tools cause the Bolt to spin VS the Nut 4. Slide the Collar Back onto the Tbar 5. Tbar should be Free. Repat on opposite side and remove the Crossmember.. OR. Follow 1 and 2, But... 3. slide the boot Forward on the Tbar where it Meets with the Xmember 4. Remove the Clipring that is on there.. 5. Slide the Tbar out from its Adjuster. I have Not been Successfull in removing the Tbar from the housing without A Torch or one hell of a lot of pblaster. I found taking the Xmember with the Tbars on it is easier. Cumbersome yes, but easier...
  14. ahh. The question Arises.. I Drove the Pins/Bolts/whatevers out with a AirChizel with a Punch attachment on it. Replaced the gaskets and used Grade 8.8 Bolts to hold it all together. Then I coated te welds with Hightemp JB. All Good! my Buddy wanted like 50 Bucks to weld it, so i told him to go suck an egg..!
  15. good Point. I didnt know where you were located! haha -alcohol-
  16. I got a Complete Air conditioning system from an 87 that can be yours if you want to come and pull it. I dont feel like haveing to do that much work. its already got 134a in it so its a easy recho...
  17. I was Thinkin of Removing my Center Console and Mounting dual Ebrake levers (left for Left Right for Right). this way i can lock up ONLY The Wheel thats Spinning.. Any Ideas on that? I got the Ebrake Levers and cables already.
  18. Hey lg, Send me that Pic and Ill Resize it for ya.
  19. I have my Engine almost apart. if you can use a Knock sensor from an 87, Ill sell it to ya for 50 bucks..
  20. All The More reason to Run a CAT... Hehehe. JK.....
  21. Hmm. Run your Computer Codes and See if your Knock Sensor is bad. If the sensor is Bad, If i remember Right, It Changes the air/Fuel Ratio to adject for the Knock. If it is bad, it wont do what it should do, and you get a knock. Also check your Oil pressure and Level and quality. But RUN the Computer Codes. Its SOO helpfull for situations like this!
  22. i gots 2 Extra, Left and Right, from an 88.. Ill sell em for 30 a Pair + shipping. If your intrested, Lemme know. (Sounds about right, 55-40=15) joe@cmsolutionspa.com
  23. How about a Nice coat of GE Top end Clear Bathroom Silicone (a Thin coat). This stuff is Flexiable and resists water dirt and whatnot, and is C L E A R! Repo Depot (home depot) should sell it. it comes in a Tube wit a Clear cap. kinda of a goldish Label. When im done wiht my Fenders, im going to use that behind the flairs.
  24. Hmmm I have an Extra Cat Here. Its not Punched, but i will need to check and Ensure its still good. If its good, are you interested in it?
  25. ... So then Just to Clairify a Point.... an Oil with a HIGHER Viscosity Level is going to wear out faster than an Oil with a LOWER Viscosity Level? I Tend to Not Believe that. ALLTHOUGH This... Happens to be 100% True, allthough I PERSONALLY have NEVER had a Problem with it. I Run some oil addidives and such periodically which is probbaly why i never saw a problem. I used to commute 300 Miles PER DAY with my maxima, and when i ran 5/30 my lifters would tap after a week of driving. Change the oil, and It went away for another week. I Went to 10/40. Had No problems there, but i found with 20/50 Is that It was Cleaner when Exiting the motor, I NEVER had a Valve tap with it, and She Ran BETTER with the Thicker Oil. (probbaly due to it Helping to coat the rings better). I didnt Burn oil in the car either and the Motor Ran Wonderfull. Honestly, as with eveything in Life there are going to be Opinions on either Side of the Spectrum. This is obviously one of those Topics. If you want to Be SAFE and you are a Book-follower, then I would follow Nissan's Oil Reccomendations For your Climate. Thanks!
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