jmcardamone

When you pull up on it, Does it feel like the Motor in the actuator is Fighting back at you? (if you push down, it wants up, if you Pull, it wants down), if so, un hook your battery. its a stab in the dark, but if the actuator is Hung electrically, then removing power to it MAY release the Lock mech. my dads stanza had the same problem, and i yanked the battery and it released. i then replaced the actualtor. No probem. and YES THEY ARE THAT STRONG!!

Hey Soon may be your Lucky day. Im Heading out to Champlain Il, to see Phill at L&P. On the way is Columbus OH. I got that Extra Motor if you want it. its missing a few things Now (ie TBI, DISTRIB), but the Heads and Block and Driveplate are all there. You can Use it for the crank. If i Get my Pickup truck done Here in the Next week, woudl you be Intrested in the Motor for say 200 Bucks plus 50 bucks for Delivery? Ill drive it out to where you are and drop it in your driveway when i head out there. This is only if i get my Pickup Done in time. Let me know! Thanks! Joe joe@cmsolutionspa.com

I would say JB weld, But get the Better JB weld. (they have a High Temp/Strength Formula). Ive JB welded Manifolds, Oil Pans, Bolts ETC> it DOES WORK EXECELLENT AND DOES LIVE UP TO THE WEIGHT RATINGS IF YOU MIX IT CORRECTLY!!!!! But Clean the area of Paint First. Its a 5 minute fix and Once it dries, Its not going anywhere. Ive used it Before for hatch Shocks on a ford Escort, NO problem whatsoever, and its now 5 Years later...

Can you give us some more Information, IE. was the Truck sitting for a while, Did Someone attempt to open the door while it being unlocked, Is it Stuck halfway open, ETC. Have you tried a Key? both locking and Unlocking?

Place an Ammeter between your Ground (negative) cable and the battery with the key off. This will give you a good Idea how much current draw there is. then you can Start Pulling Fuses and see where the Draw is from. when it Dropps, you found it. But its Probbaly from something like a done light, marker light inside the cab or something along those lines.

on driving Lights, you should ALLWAYS Relay them. Lets look at this From a Power Consumption 200watt light kit. using Ohm's Law, (watts/Volts =amps) 200/12 is 16.6 Amps. 14 Gage wire is JUST Tolerant Enough to Handle this. now Imagine Another 110 watts from the OTHER set of lights... (another 8.4 Amps +16.6 amps = 25 Amps) a 30 amp Fuse would work Here. (I know some would say, use a 25 amp, But unless its a SLow blo, it will not really tolerate the current during Rampup). So to do this Right, get a Relay that is able to handle 30 amps on the SUPPLY side. Fuse it RIGHT AT THE BATTERY, In case you wack something (or Someone) and Short the wiring. I PERSONALLY would put a Breakout box near the Lights in the Front. Run 10 or 12 Gage Wire to the breakout Box and 14-16 to EACH Light. I Know it Sounds Elaborate, but when do Get a Good lead off of the battery with a Good Relay, They are Brighter, and Dont Heat up the wires. Some one here is going to read this and Go, ARE YOU NUTZ, but This is the TRUE Right way to Wire them. Ive Done a lot of Wiring for 12v, 24v and Residential/Commerical Electric applications. When I Rewired my dads 79 Peterbuilt i Did Simiar wiring for Headlights, Driving Lights, Load Lights ETC and he NEVER Had a Problem with the Wiring, and he used to run a lot of the systems all day long. PS. what i mean by a breakout box is a small Box that Takes a Heavy gage wire, and Allows you to distribute it to multiple devices. Some are Fused, some arent. They are also called Distribution Boxes, or simply some call it a fuse box. radioshack sells them with Gold Contacts and such. just mount it where it will remain Clean and dry! good luck

Dan, I got the hookup of the centruy My 87 was sittin Idle for a while, waiting for right moment to install mi...I mean your Tranny . The Floors in the 89 are not bad at all. The Fener Wells are the Problem! I got Sheet Metal out the wazzu but thats not my Coolness here.. Check this out. I was going to Rape Parts of the 87 for the 89, well my Buddy Saw me Drive the 87 (even though its been Running Like $h!t) THROUGH the Woods on the Side of my House. Now i dont mean a Path, I made it live up to its name, Pathfinder. I mowed down Trees up to 3 Inches think and didnt Get stuck. all though i scraficed a Mirror to Look cool, I didnt care. he saw that and just about had kittens. He said "I WANT THAT ONE!" so i said Buy me The parts i need and i will GIVE it to you, (being i was going to use the parts from it and then Sell it anyway). so im getting New Fenders, Corner Lights, Upper Control arms, New rear Bumper and Help Installing all of it. I am fixing the exhaust. The Y Pipe didnt Rot where you thoght it did, It Broke apart at the Extenion Tube to the Cat, Right at that Flange that was pinned for some reason. So im Going to Air Hammer the pins out and put Bolts in it. I know everyone here wants me to weld it but my Buddy is being sort of a prick and now wants 50 bucks to do it cuz he has to "Lay on his Back" to weld it. Ill Bolt it and be done in about 5 minutes with a Good Exhaust. Then Inpection and TRAIL TIME BABY! I went Muddin with it (and its Open Exhaust) last weekend. Lets just say some of the hunters didnt mind it, and some did. My Little guy Pissed himself when he Saw the 15 Foot High Wall of Water and Mud Engulf the windshield. I left his window open for a little "spray" hehehe. wife thought it was cool too, but she Got mud in her face due to the sunroof Being Removed for maximum Airflow. The Kid Now goes outside and BEGS ME to Sit in the Truck. When im working on it, he comes out, says UH OH when he see's it in peices, Gives the Tire a Hug and says, All better! kids just Too Cute! Let me know how that tranny works out for you when its In. GOOTA GO WHEELIN>>> Hehehehehehehehehe!

One thing i would like to mention though is on New Vech's you MAY want to use Spray Fuel Injection or TBI Cleaner In Lieu of Carb Cleaner. (Gumout makes both). Carb Cleaner (and Brake Cleaner) can Somtimes Contain Checmicals that can Etch Aluminium. for the Most parts, Its not a Problem, But i did see a buddy of mine Spray the Intake of a ford f150 Quite Regulary and it did Create a Really Rough Surface inside the Venturi Behind the Butterflys. Remember, The Less Air Friction that Occurs, the Less Turbulent the air is in the Venturi, Thereby Providing more Availble air to an already Suffocating Motor. Just some food For thought, But This Definatley Does Cure the Sticky Problem!... Also works GREAT on ford Rangers, The 90 stick like a 2 year old with a lolipop!

I have a "spare" Engine Here... Hehe. its from an 88. what year is your "chassis" and where are you located. I might be intrested...... I also might be willing to sell the Extra Engine....cheap.... Im broke!

One thing that works REALLY REALLY REALLY well, the Adapter to Use the Pickle Fork on a air Hammer. THAT REALLY works QUICk. ZZZZZSSTTTT.. Done. Allmost Illreguardless of how Stuck it is, Stick it in, Hit the Button, and GO GO GO! for the 75 bucks for the Pickle fork kit and 55 for the IR Air Hammer, ITs WORTH IT!! hehehehe

Shweet. Ill have to Get some. I got Red RTV and Black. Ill See if i can Find some of that Gasket Stuff! Thanks!

Ok, i had the Same Exact Thing Happen to my D21 when i towed it. Did you ENSURE your Wheel Locks where Unlocked? I left the Sucker in Neutral on the Tranny, and Neutral on the xfer case. Apparently it didnt Like that, I looked and found that my Hubs were Locked and i was towing with a Dolly. so after unlocking the Hubs, the truck rolled Fine. Now i could guess that the truck rolled Fine onto the Flatbed cuz all wheels were turning, but i wouldnt Be surprized if similar happened here.

Ok. I yanked the TBI off my 87 Cuz I have Made a buddy of mine a Pathfiner Convert today and he wants my 87. Everything is ok, but the gasket on the Spacer Betwen The TBI and the Manifold (not the spacer, Just the Gasket) ripped on the Manifold Side. Can i use a Silicone gasket Sealer and form a gasket, or do i need to purchase the Dang Gasket...

Ok guys. 89 Pathy SE, v6 manual. LIMITED BUDGET!!!! (Broke as ____) Ehaust Pipe came apart where the Y Pipe comes togeter into the Pipe going into the Cat. The Dogears Seperated (not Rotted), the Pins Came Out. I was Thinking of the Following.. Grind off the Remainder of the Pins and Either 1. Drilling them Out, and Replacing them with Bolts, OR keep the Pins there and getting a Buddy to Mig or Tig weld the Whole Assembly back together. UNLESS someone has a Better Idea. Its the ONLY exhaust Leak on the WHole dang truck. Everything from that point back is almost Brand new! Help here would be appreaciated. Im leaning on Drilling and Bolting, as its cheaper than paying the buddy 20 bucks to weld it, and its Removable.

... Sometimes you just need to tell her WHAT to do.... I know my Wife Needs a LOT of Direction sometimes..... ... :help: Uhhh Honey.... put down that knife....... HEHE..

Check your ground. Ive found that sometimes Nissan's Black wire on the Harness will not Povide a Clean ground. by Hooking up the Cig Lighter may have connected your Ground. Allthough it should groud VIA the Antenna, IT may be an area to check. I know you got it working, just trying to shed some light on what may have happened

Ok simple. Let look From a Physics Point of Veiw. If you were to Place a jack under the Spindle, it will go up, when it goes up, it will Begin to Apply Pressure to the shaft, Causing it to shorten, And Hopefully apply enough Pressure to the Spindle to Pop it Back out. Ive done this about 100 Times on Front wheel drive Cars. ITs also easier to Push/pull when its Jacked up. Try and let me know!

..... Or you can go get that New Nissan 5.7 LTR engine..... hehehhehehe.....

What year are you looking to Retrofit. i may be able to sell you parts off of mine...

:X Been There, Done that. My Maxima was NOTORIOUS For That. Untill i sat down one day and really Thought Things out with them slide pins. once i got em Right, and really took care of em, no more Pulls, No more squeaks, No More Uneven pads, Scorched Rotors, ETC. The Trick is to Get and keep the Moisture out!. Thats why the WD40 is soo Dang Important. it Does what it says, Water Displacer! If anyone Tries the above, Let me know how it works! &

There are Some Shops Outside of Philla that will Convert any car into a Convertable. That would be... Intresteting to see.....

Cool! Not too Expensive! but i might just suck mine off and Weld weld weld. I think i can eat enough Soup to Frabricate my own! Mater of fact, Ill eat Chunky Soup just to Limit the ammount of backpressure!

Many of us at one time has come upon the Hung Caliper, Especially those of us who enjoy the Mud and Muck of great Off Roading! I am Writing this to help those of us who are experiencing Brake issues with Disc style Brakes. This is a retype of a Post I commented on in the Forum on NPORA’s Website. What are slide pins? Slide pins (on a Nissan Pathy), are Cylindrical Pins that Allow the Caliper to Freely Compress and Release against the pads. They retain the Bolts that hold the caliper to the Brake Frame and can be found easily. They are Protected with a Rubber Boot, and are found at the top and bottom of the caliper. What you will need to get started is the Following. 1 Can of WD-40 (any ONLY WD 40, I will explain later) 1 Can of Lubrimatic High Temperature Disc/Drum Brake/ Wheel Bearing grease Small Metallic Tube Brush Small enough to Fit in the Slide pin Holes Assorted Tools to Remove the Caliper and Frame Ok. First and Foremost, jack the pathy up and secure it. Remove the affected tire. Before removing any brake components, note the position and alignment of the pads on the caliper. Take special note to any Excessive wear to the rotor, or any uneven contact with the rotor with the pads. This will help to ensure that you replace any parts that have been damaged by the Slide pins Remove the Upper and Lower Bolts on the Caliper. Next, Remove the Caliper and secure to the Vehicle with a piece of Mechanic’s Wire or Other Method of Holding so that there is zero strain on the Brake line. The next step is key. First is to Find and test the Slide pins. Look for the Points where the bolts you just removed thread into. These will have rubber Boots on them. These are The Slide pins. If the Rubber boots are Torn, Replace the boots or the Slide Pins if you cannot Find or furbish replacement Boots. To test them, grab each and Move. Press in, gently pull out, Twist, Turn, etc. These movements should Be Effortless and SMOOTH! If they are Not, then its time to Proceed to the Next step. If they are , then follow along, but just clean with WD-40 and grease as directed below. . Ok, Time to Remove these Guys. Unbolt the Brake frame using the 2 bolts that mount through the frame into the hub. After removing the Frame, Place it in a Vise, Pin Side up. Remove the Pins by pulling on the Head and the boot and Place them in a Clean towel. Fill the Holes with WD-40. WD-40 is a Water Displacer. It was originally Formulated for NASA for one of the Space missions to Fill the gauges of the spacecraft so they would not fog up. This will Remove any Moisture in the Hole. Now take the Tube brush and Clean the Holes out. Ensure you Preform this well. You want any debris out of the hole. Once this is done, Remove from vise, Drain any wd left and Spray the holes with Fresh WD-40 while upside down. This will Remove any Loose Particles from the holes, Brake Cleaner also works well here too, but rinse with WD when done.. If you are one of the unfortunate that the slide pin have Frozen on the vehicle, I would Recommend Replacement of the pins IF you can extract them. The Best method I found is to Lift the Rubber Boot and Place a LOT of B’Laster and wd-40 under the boot. Let this Soak for a little and Grab the Small Plate on the Top of the Pin with a Pair of ViseGrips and Twist and turn. Keep repeating until they are Free. If you give up, you can get a New frame from a Salvage yard, Just remember to check the pins BEFORE you accept! Now on to the Inspection. Pick up your slide pins and Examine them first. If there is any Rust, Pit marks, Gouges or if the Pins Feels Rough to the Touch, I would Recommend Replacement. If you are not able to afford the Replacement cost, then I would Fold back the Boot, Grab a Wire wheel and clean it top to Bottom and Remove EVERY IMPERFECTION!!! I would Soak It in WD-40 for about 10 Minutes prior to doing this. It will help Remove any rust, and Drive out any Moisture that has permiated the metal of the pin. When this is done, Rinse with Clean WD-40. At this Point it should be Nice and Shiny! NOTE: REMEMBER NOT TO REMOVE TOO MUCH METAL. IT NEEDS TO RETAIN AS MUCH OF ITS ORIGINAL SHAPE AS POSSIBLE. IF YOU HAVE TO REMOVE MORE METAL THAN SAY A PENICL TIP (AND THAT’S EVEN BEING REALLY LIBERAL), THEN CHUCK IT AND REPLACE! HOLES, PITS, AND VALLEYS CREATE A GREAT PLACE FOR MOISTURE TO HIDE!! Regreaseing. This is important to follow. If done wrong, you will be doing this again Shortly! Take a Small Amount, about the size of 2 peas, and Place it in the Hole for the slide pin in the brake frame. Ensure that it Fills the Opening of the Hole. Next, Dip the Slide pin into the Can of brake Grease, Rubber Boot side up, until it Reaches the Boot. Do not get grease on the Boot if you can avoid it! Place the Slide pin into the Hole and Move up, down, Twist ETC. The boot will Expel Air when the Pin is Compressed all the way in, my Kid Calls this a fart…. This is ok. Clean any Excess Grease and Remove the Pin. Dip it in the Grease again and Repeat the Above, This time when the Boot expels Air, Squeeze it to help force any excess air and grease out. Wipe any excess and repeat on the other one. The pins should now Move Effortlessly And Freely., if not, Clean again! Once the above is done, you can reinstall the frame on the Pathy, Replace you parts or other Brake components, and Go! Maintenance To maintain these Pins, they should be Removed and Cleaned with the above procedure every pad changes. If you off road, or Go Mudding, then I would do It every couple of thousand Miles, or After each Run. I do mine on all my Nissans every 10K, illreguardless if I have brake problems or not. I found my pads last longer, and I don’t have brake freezups. Why does this Happen? During Normal Use of the Pins, the boot Expands, Contracts, and Exchanges Air. Anytime it is in contact with Moisture due to a Humid Day, Rain, Snow, or Large Puddle, it has the chance of taking on Moisture. This moisture creates Corrosion, which in turn creates Friction and the friction is what causes the brake to hang up. I hope this helps all of you out. Please send any comments or Revisions to insomniak@noln.com or Post them in NPORA’s Forum! Good Luck and Safe Braking!

... Try doing a Timing Chain on a KA24DE in a 94 Altima with DOHC. I am still working on mine. had to Remove the Heads, both Oil pans, Crosmemebers, Exhaust Flexpipe, Etc.etc. 6 hours in there today and i only got the lower part of the motor together! Yesh! I rather Replace the Damm Motor!

Darn. I just passed up one of them Superchargers for 50 Bucks!!. Oh well. But DEFINATLEY would PURCHASE a kit for 500 Dollars! ABSOLUTLEY! Provided it Came with Detailed Installation Insructions, and as a bonus, some a reading material on how the kit came together and how all the parts work together. Good Reading Material!